ivan Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 planning on going to the valley this summer to do a wall living in vancouver-land, i've only cragged at index twice looking to be dry this weekend - what would be good routes to get some fun practice not only climbing but hauling, penduluming and spending the night in a ledge? i've got the nelson topo for town crier and city park of course and they both look good - what else is there and is there any easy beta to be had on it? Quote
Sol Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 i prefer the green dragon over town crier, there's also dana's arch up there as well (not much penji-ing going on on any of those). also up there is abraxas and the golden arch. on the lower town wall p1 of Narrow arrow and NAD are good, as are TPMV, iron horse, etc. nearly all of these (maybe not golden arch) have gone clean so leave the pins at home. if it is dry enough to free climb be warned that its poor style to be the aid gumby clogging up the classic free climbs on the ltw and prepare for slander. Quote
TimL Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 if it is dry enough to free climb be warned that its poor style to be the aid gumby clogging up the classic free climbs on the ltw and prepare for slander. Thats kinda a stupid statement. Since when did one group have priority over another? I thought it was first come first serve. Quote
tomtom Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 If you head up to Green DragOn or Town Crier, do the right-hand start, not Davis-Holland. It's a better aid crack. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/utwc.gif p1 of Snow White and Numbah Ten on the LTW are also fun. Quote
underworld Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 green dragon and town crier are close enough to each other that you can penji from one to the other at...well...probably any point. you can turn it into a playground and then just deploy the ledge when it gets dark. now THAT'S a fun weekend! you could totally dial your lower outs, penjis and hauling by doing those two routes in some random manner. Quote
DRep Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 Be ready to get wet on the Upper Wall, there's alot of water up there right now. Abraxas is gonna be a waterfall. Go do a route in the Quarry and post a TR! Quote
mountainmatt Posted April 2, 2009 Posted April 2, 2009 I second the above suggestions. Start with the 5.11 start to Green Drag-On/Town crier and then go for both of them. If you want to spend the night on your portaledge, the roof at the top of p3 of GD provides you some shelter if there is still a lot of water coming off the top. If you want some practice hauling, TC is more likely going to give you some more interesting situations than GD (the chimney for example). Have fun up there! Enjoy watching the trains go by at night Quote
ivan Posted April 2, 2009 Author Posted April 2, 2009 I second the above suggestions. Start with the 5.11 start to Green Drag-On/Town crier and then go for both of them. If you want to spend the night on your portaledge, the roof at the top of p3 of GD provides you some shelter if there is still a lot of water coming off the top. If you want some practice hauling, TC is more likely going to give you some more interesting situations than GD (the chimney for example). Have fun up there! Enjoy watching the trains go by at night no worries 'bout sleeping through trains - beacon's more than prepped me for that (but not the meth heads, not regretably ) how is it that brown beckey has none of the index big routes? i don't have topos for any of the climbs mentioned above 'cept town crier and city park - any place i can get them fo'free as i am very, very poor Quote
ivan Posted April 2, 2009 Author Posted April 2, 2009 :wave: FREE INDEX TOPOS! :wave: b'dass! thanx. Quote
Plaidman Posted April 4, 2009 Posted April 4, 2009 Ivan Check out the access issues http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/Current/Town.htm Adam and I were going to get on Town Crier Now I am crying. Plaidman Quote
dirtysloper Posted April 4, 2009 Posted April 4, 2009 save your tears plaidman. isn't TC on the UTW... Quote
ivan Posted April 6, 2009 Author Posted April 6, 2009 save your tears plaidman. isn't TC on the UTW... yes, save the tears...for the endless slow walk up the hill w/ a giant haulbag to even reach town crier thanx for the recommendations - we woke up the green dragon from its winter slumber this weekend, overnighting on a ledge under the big green roof, but unfortunately not out of the continous drizzle - by noon yesterday the upper wall was dry, except for the large waterfall and davis-holland, green dragon and town crier were in fine climbing form! Quote
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