are the peshastin pinnacles open?

[markwebster]

are the peshastin pinnacles open? How much snow is there? temps look good coming up.

[AlpineMonkey]

yes, open, no snow.

[penoyar]

second what the monkey said. we climbed there this afternoon, 50ish degrees with lots of sun and little wind, everything's dry. a big tree fell onto the lower trail to Grand Central Tower, but it's easily passable without going off-trail.

[frankstoneline]

I've never been to the pinnacles, is much of it sport or do I need find someone with a trad rack to go with?

[genepires]

it is real sporty sport climbing that needs a serious trad rack for. The routes are old school so expect healthy old school runouts (with a few exceptions of course) and also need to finangle in the trad gear in flaring cracks. definatley a unusual and interesting place to go a few times every year. (if not remember how good granite is)

 

You can find some well protected bolt climbing and also some TR walk around setups but it ain't no smoke bluffs fur sure.

[frankstoneline]

so I could make a day sport climbing in the area, but would be better equipped if a trad rack was involved?

[ScottP]

Yes. A rack of only draws is severely limiting at Peshastin.

[genepires]

according to the guidebook there are 17 routes with stars and only need draws. There breakdown is:

 

route rating

5.6 1 skull w star rating

5.7 none

5.8 1 with stars rating 1 skull w star

5.9 2 with stars rating 2 without star rating, 1 skull w star

5.10 4 with stars rating 1 without star rating 2 skull w star

5.11 3 with stars rating

 

As you can see it is rather limiting to pure sport climbers as the non star climbs are probably crap so that leaves 10 routes that are not run out. The west face route has some 12 bolts for 30 meters or so. (5.8)

 

 

 

 

Edited March 31, 2009 by genepires

[Dane]

Most of the bolted routes, with few exceptions, can also be top roped with a little effort and two ropes. Climbs over two pitches are rare, most being one good pitch of climbing. That said it is a place not to be missed early in the season. Nothing else like it in WA.

[markwebster]

don't let all the bad talk about the pinnacles keep you away. it's an awesome climbing area, but it does have a learning curve. many routes are never done anymore, but there is easily two days worth of climbing, or more if you want to master friction. If you are looking for the bolt monkey routes of vantage, with a bolt every 4 feet, then go to vantage. but if you are willing to serve an apprenticeship in friction climbing, the pinnacles can pay great dividends. I wrote a trip report about it last spring.

pinnacles trip report

It does pay to always carry a few cams in the one half inch to 4 inch range on any route in Leavenworth, not just the pinnacles.

[genepires]

I am sorry if I sounded like I was bad mouthing peshastin. I wasn't trying to. I rather like the occasional day spent there. It is an excellent place to get in some variety and additional rock skills in our local cragging environment.

 

Just trying to give an honest assessment of what to expect for a first time visitor.

[DCramer]

Fun routes w/ no stars:

 

Graham Cracker 5.10

Frostback Follies 5.10a

Knobs 5.9

 

Fun route w/ too few stars:

 

Testicle Fortitude 5.9

[mattp]

so I could make a day sport climbing in the area, but would be better equipped if a trad rack was involved?

 

Yes. Most of the better routes require a rack but, even more than that, a "trad" perspective. Most of it is slab climbing, and it tends toward funky pro and scary runouts - with some of the classic climbs featuring ground fall potential at crux or maybe merely "cruxy" moves.

 

But look at Mr. Webster's trip report from last year: it is a great place to climb. It might take a day or three before you feel comfortable there, though.

[G-spotter]

Pechosstin: climb these rocks before, and maybe even while, they fall over!