ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Trip: Beacon Rawk - The Empire Strikes Back - C1 (5.12) Date: 3/18/2009 Trip Report: been 2 months since a beacon tr! wtf? this one's for you pink! and you tvash! actually it's "seige tactics" which i reckon was originally reckoned at 5.10 a2, but at the moment is a que manifigue c1 affair (requires either a cam hook or a talon hook) - i had to rename it for myself based on my laytonesque struggle w/ a mighty-turd from the outset - after i finished the climb and miker was cleaning it, i had to sprint for the shitter whereupon i had an experience i can only liken onto "the empire strikes back" - grim and gloomy, a clear sense of their needing to be a sequel, a deep seated feeling like the good guys hadn't won i noticed this climb right aroudn the time i think it was put up last spring, when i was doing headspace right next door - later i found this clip of shane doing the fa and taking a nice little screamer [video:youtube] it's a cool chunk of beacon stone - very grippy and blocky, but wildly overhanging and rippling w/ rooves - today a continous torrent of waterfalls poured off the overhangs, but this little gem is totally protected a couple pbr's n some mostly cardboard smokes were a good beginning i didn't free climb any of it - it's still fun in moped-like aiders - hey, an excuse to place my #6! after that plenty of small aliens and nuts and a nice little hook move, some steep, funky crack climbing and then a nice set of anchors - looks like the good fa'ers are continuing the line past this and it's a wicked cool setting, but it was a definite niagra falls zone today i *heart* my ass after aborting my ass-babies while mike cleaned, i returned and he re-led it for shits'n'giggles - i chain-smoked and pbr'ed myself into oblivion while channeling bruce springstein and beowulf, then cleaned mike's shit up in the gloaming - skeeters n' hoot owls n' croaking frogs annouced that spring has sprung, and we scuttled off goddamn i miss beacon! looking forward to seeing where this climb ends up as it appears to be a rancho-relaxo directo! saw the farside crew on the drive out - holy shit you boys were packing the lot! my hedonistic twinges almost made me stop but i had to press on through Gear Notes: big nut, small nut 2 green/yellow/red aliens, .75, #1 camelots big ass #6 camelot Approach Notes: exhausting... Quote
pink Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 your ground up tactics are egotistical, irresponsible and adolescent at best i love beer in the morning..... Quote
ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Author Posted March 19, 2009 are the links to all my pictures broken or is it just my school computer blocking them i wonder? Quote
ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Author Posted March 19, 2009 another beacon first for me last night - some species of bird i've not heard before - sounds very much like a child being tortured - maybe it was just a paderast up on rancho relaxo, but whatever it was, it couldn't help but bring a sick twisted smile to my face Quote
ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Author Posted March 19, 2009 (edited) Did you repeat a route? yes - that's what the youtube video was of, eh? but my crap was EPIC, brah! at any rate, it's a route still in its infancy and is a very much needed adn valued addition to the north side during these dark closure days, so thought folks might profit by its publicity - the fact that its bone dry even in the wettest of conditions is a further plus Edited March 19, 2009 by ivan Quote
WageSlave Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 are the links to all my pictures broken or is it just my school computer blocking them i wonder? It probably classifies your photos as the pr0n that it is so you can't fantasize about climbing and get off on the clock. Quote
billcoe Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 It was dry warm and sunny where we were, looks like you had the better route though. Quote
ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Author Posted March 19, 2009 It was dry warm and sunny where we were, looks like you had the better route though. ya'll gonna be out there again today? i'm sans partner but figured if it was gonna be pouring out i could just go back to the rat cave - might put in an appearnace and try to figure out something to aid-solo at the 'side though too if there's some company about. Quote
billcoe Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Nah, have to work. I think to explain the dawgpile, it was one of those "hey, it's gonna be clear today and raining all weekend" things for everyone. Like a mass movement, it all happened at once and there we were. Quote
denalidave Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Nah, have to work. I think to explain the dawgpile, it was one of those "hey, it's gonna be clear today and raining all weekend" things for everyone. Like a mass movement, it all happened at once and there we were. I noticed your car there when passing by with the fam on the way to the Couve. Had I know you were there, I'd have brought your Silent Partner and dropped it off. Give me a heads up next time you are headed that way. Quote
billcoe Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Nah, have to work. I think to explain the dawgpile, it was one of those "hey, it's gonna be clear today and raining all weekend" things for everyone. Like a mass movement, it all happened at once and there we were. I noticed your car there when passing by with the fam on the way to the Couve. Had I know you were there, I'd have brought your Silent Partner and dropped it off. Give me a heads up next time you are headed that way. OK, but I think it might ruin the spontaneity! Quote
kevbone Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Ivan....you gonna add any bolts to this route? Quote
JosephH Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 Ivan....you gonna add any bolts to this route? It's not his, it's Shane's route... Quote
ivan Posted March 19, 2009 Author Posted March 19, 2009 Ivan....you gonna add any bolts to this route? why? its goes clean at c1 - plus, uh, isn't it like not cool to add bolts to somebody else's route? it would be nice to hammer a pin in under the roof where you do a traverse on a hook, mostly b/c the pro on the far side is a red camelot under a loose block and might very well fail if fallen on resulting in a big long swinging fall - also, it's just the kind of crack that cries out for a lost arrow to defile it - i would be nervous watchign somebody free climb that bit for sure Quote
JosephH Posted March 19, 2009 Posted March 19, 2009 it would be nice to hammer a pin in under the roof where you do a traverse on a hook, mostly b/c the pro on the far side is a red camelot under a loose block and might very well fail if fallen on resulting in a big long swinging fall - also, it's just the kind of crack that cries out for a lost arrow to defile it - i would be nervous watchign somebody free climb that bit for sure I believe Shane used one of my Loweballs for that spot, but I'd have to look at the video again. Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 20, 2009 Posted March 20, 2009 Nothing like the sun at farside to justify not having to drive all the way to beacon in march - not saying that I don't want to climb at beacon, though, of course! Quote
LostCamKenny Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 goddamn i miss beacon! looking forward to seeing where this climb ends up as it appears to be a rancho-relaxo directo! How many more pitches would you estimate? Does it look messy further up or could you tell? Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 How many more pitches would you estimate? Does it look messy further up or could you tell? i don't know shane (perhaps you can speak for him joe?) but i assume it's him and his crew working on it - the next bit from the anchor looks a very fun corner to a cool protected ledge system, and above that they have a rope fixed through ground that looks much easier, but therefore much more vegetable-fucked - plenty of sweat left to make 'fore it'd be ready, but there's no reason to think the line won't be able to be pushed eventually to the rancho relaxo area and therefore to the true summit! it would suck if the park closes b/c of budget cuts but one potential positive would be north side routes could be developed more aggresively? god knows theres a ton of sick options if only the boltability/cleanability was enhanced? there's so much impossible stone at the moment given its completly unprotectably nature and sections of jungle-fuck infestation. Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 and 'fore you get angry joe, let me say that, in the eventuality the park was closed, the best way for us climbers to let the s side still stay undisturbed during hte peregrine season would be to make the north side a realistic playground - the biggest obstacle to me seems keeping it safe for the tourists, as developing anything near the summit would seem potentially wicked dangerous for folks at the base - there'd have to be a buncha folks involved when cleaning up there i'd wager...but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Quote
kevbone Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Nope....just the sensitive moss folks! Quote
ivan Posted March 21, 2009 Author Posted March 21, 2009 but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Nope....just the sensitive moss folks! my question to you and our brethern kev is, could we keep it safe for the tourons? or would it take a zombie apocalypse to make it okay to clean out a couple lines up all that beautiful stone near the p-lot? Quote
JosephH Posted March 21, 2009 Posted March 21, 2009 but on the other hand you wouldn't have to worry about pissing off the train folks! Nope....just the sensitive moss folks! Nope....just the sensitive habitat folks! Dude, you're being a bit swishy on the liberal / environmental front there... Quote
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