Beta On West Face Route on the Monkey Face

[Plaidman]

Looking for more beta on the West Face Route on the Monkey Face at Smith Rock.

How long is the first Pitch? It looks close to 150 feet.

That is the pitch I want.

The rest seems like it is doable. What are the conditions of the bolts? Bringing the cheater stick just in case.

 

Plaidman

[Guest Anonymous]

If you have the watts guide you have plenty of info, the bolts are way better than they were in 1994, lot of biners 2 sets of stopper, 2 sets 00, 0, 1 tcus and some .5 to #2 friends and you are golden and well over geared, leave the stick and bring a bat hook if a bolt is gone - yo

Shapp

[Guest Anonymous]

I forgot to add, I assume you might not be an expert with jugs based on the fact you are asking such a question. The best adice for this route is know how to use them before you start, especially Texas style.

Shapp

[ivan]

i did a tr on this in the oregon forum just a few weeks ago

 

a cheat stick is helpful just below the third anchor - you can reach the cave in 2 pitches - stop at the first anchor, but then go strait from there to the cave - the first pitch just takes a bunch of small/med nuts - jugging w/ 1 jumar and 1 grigri/pulley is easy

[Plaidman]

The real question is how long is the first pitch.

Thanks for all the other info.

It will be very helpful.

Now to talk my climbing partner into doing it with me.

 

 

Plaidman

[markd]

The real question is how long is the first pitch.

 

1st pitch is 35m.

[Plaidman]

Thanks. That will help with calculating how long it will take to git er done.

[Guest Anonymous]

Would you care to ellaborate on the caclulation? I am just curious what you are thinking.

Shapp

[Plaidman]

After much practice on smaller aid projects I will see how long it take me to aid on a similar crack. Right now it looks like it would take me about 4 hours to do the first pitch. So it looks like I will need much more time in the aiders before I fire off on something that long. Or I will have to second and clean it. I would rather lead it though. So I will practice, practice, practice.

 

Plaidman

[shapp]

I think you are either way over estimating or you need to pick a new sport, but I would bet you got the estimate way off. You will probably start out slow, but after about 30 feet, you will probably get yourself into a rythm and move a lot faster. You can probably do it in less than 2 hours for the first pitch, and that would be moving like a snail. Provided you can place stopers in C1+ placements you will be o.k. and should be way faster than 4 hours, unless you have to do a bunch of backcleaning cause you placed way too much gear or didn't bring enough stoppers in anticipaton of sewing it up. Give it a go.

Shapp

[billcoe]

Plaidman, one more possible thing to think of or to consider. Try doing the Great Roof route first. It's not too far to access it but it's out of the way/off the beaten track enough that it's rarely done, so you won't be in anyone's way if you chose to be on it all day and dog it slow and methodical. It recently was freed by Beth Rodden and the pics I saw appeared to have had some big new 3/8" monster stainless bolts added, so probably safer as well.

 

Pretty good nutting and very comparable to the WF first pitch, but you'll have it to yourself to dial your stuff in.

[ivan]

what shapp said

 

seriously, it's not like big lines form for this route - and if you rope solo it (4 bolts right off the ground make it a great for that) you don't even have to bore the hell out of your belayer!

[ivan]

where's the great roof bill?

[pink]

where's the great roof bill?

 

 

look into the mirror, tilt your head back and say "AH"

Edited March 10, 2009 by pink

[ivan]

where's the great roof bill?

 

 

look into the mirror, tilt your head back and say "AH"

no doubt your ma was conquered by the great roof(ie) there pink?

[pink]

and raised a kid who actually knows how to climb

[billcoe]

where's the great roof bill?

 

Over on Brogan Spire near Staender ridge area. There's a few real good routes in that area. Delirium Tremons which use to be 10a but is now 10B (as I age:-), and Round River, the only 3 pitch 5.4 in the area are both "Must dos" I would think, with a bunch of other real good other routes closeby as well.

 

Frankly Ivan, it's been a while since I've been over on it, but it use to be one of the better things to do on wet days. I have better gear than I use to have, and I would think that the offset HB style wired nuts would be rockin over there.

[Plaidman]

Went out to the Rat Cave today and rocked the far left route. It took me about 45 mins. All bolts but had to get in the top step of my aiders and make a hook move as I am only 5 foot 6 inches with little stubby arms. Good fun. All over hanging and reachy.

 

Plaidman

[billcoe]

Did you meet Adam and Kyle? They were there as well. Wuzzamatter- you folks melt when it rains or what?

[corvallisclimb]

Try doing the Great Roof route first.

 

Pretty good nutting and very comparable to the WF first pitch,

 

the only 2 falls ive ever taken aid climbing where on the great roof... mabey im suck or was trying to skip bolts but in my memory the aid moves are a tad harder on the great roof. but heres the good news both where static falls onto shitty gear, a 2 cam yellow alien and # 1 metolius nut. one was when a cam hook blew and the other a red HB. vivid memories in my aid career. but goes to show shit holds, so get at it!