Complete North Ridge of Stuart

[Guest]

I am a new climber here and I think I want to climb this route as one of my projects this coming weekend. Good info would help.

I am not interested in the Gendarme info or upper north ridge info as it seems pretty obvious, but simply logistics and info on how to gain the lower ridge and equipment recommended.

I can lead 5.9 at Little Si so I think I am ready

[mark]

We did the route last year and getting on to the route gave us some problems. Look out for the rap slings, they are there becasue people were off route.

After a little bit of 4th class scrambling, I thought the key to finding the first pitch was the tree with the long skinny trunk, watch for it.

Its a great route worth of its reputation as a classic. Enjoy.

Here are my notes from the climb.

 

CLIMB: STUART - FULL NORTH RIDGE

DATE: 8/04/00

THE PARTICULARS:

The approach - follow the nelson/potterfield description to the point where they describe leaving the stuart lake trail. From there don’t drop back down to Mountaineers creek as they describe, instead follow the flagged and cairned trail that stays high and traverse into the upper valley. The trail is well marked.

The bivy - we bivied in the valley right next to the creek about 1000 ft below the ridge. There are sites higher but getting water there maybe a problem

The route - The bottom gave us some problems.

Pitch one- look for the 8ft bush/tree with a long skinny trunk along side the right of the crack, about 30 feet above that is a squeeze slot about 1.5 to 2 feet wide.

Pitch 2- climb from the alcove up to a distinct ledge and then climb the crack that takes off from the middle of the ledge (it doesn’t look like a 4 inch crack). Don’t climb the short 20 foot 4 inch crack on the right.

After that just find your way by following the path of least resistance. On the lower ridge, we went left for one running lead, then in an area of class four white colored rock cut hard right.

The descent - well cairned. Make sure you head right at the bench below the snowfield. We crossed the snow field in light hikers with aluminum crampons. We were only on the snow for about one rope length, scrambling on rocks the rest of the time.

The rack - one 50 meter rope is sufficient, even if hauling the gendarme. We took one 3.5 inch cam, one 3 inch (#3 camalot), doubled up on the 2.5 through 1 inch sizes, singles in the tcu sizes and 5 med to small stoppers.

The time: Approach 2.5 hours to the valley, 1 hour from there to the route.

After getting on route, about 4 hours on the lower ridge.

Another 4.5 on the upper ridge.

Descent 2.5 hours from the summit to Ingalls creek.

Another 2.5 hours from Ingalls creek to the cars.

 

[Guest]

Why would you recommend via the Ingalls way and not via Stuart Lake way? Is there not significant elevation loss when coming over goat pass? How do you get down to the lower ridge is more of my concern there? It does not seem logical that way Mark. Thanks for your info!

[mark]

We were attempting to do the route in a day. So we left a car at the Ingalls creek trailhead and then drove around and did the approach up Mountaineers creek. Then pick up that car later. Our reasoning was if we were slower than expected the cascadian couloir would be a reasonable descent in the dark. Ended up we made it off the mountain well before dark.

Also, it is my understanding that the descent of the Sherpa glacier (to get back to Mountaineers creek) this time of year is pretty technical. We wanted to go really light (so we could go fast) so didn't want to take the heavy boots, ice axes, pickets, etc. that this descent would require.

This is what I have heard about the Sherpa glacier descent. I've never done it, maybe somebody else can confirm if this is indeed the case.

Rgds

[This message has been edited by mark (edited 07-23-2001).]

[Kyle_Flick]

There was a 50' stretch of hard ice traversing off the Stuart Glacier entering the gully. I only used insteps and was fortunate to have a partner who had twelve points to cut steps. Watch for rockfall as it's really loose in that area. The gully itself can be climbed on the side off of any snow.

[Lambone]

Cool, thanks Kyle!

[Guest]

Lambone,

I was not being harsh but you kind of intruded in my topic and made some comments that seemed out of line and near put downs. As far as referring to alpine routes I take them one pitch at a time. I am a climber it does not matter what type because I like it all.

I am not your girlfriend so I cannot comment on her abilities vs. mine. I can only say I can climb 5.9 anything be it wide, chimney, overhang, slab, bolts, at any climbing area so I dont think your unwarranted remarks are necessary. Referring to little si was merely because I like it so much there on that greasy urban crag....

Have fun carrying all your bivy gear on the mtn.

[Lambone]

Whatever dude, good for you.

And yes, I will have fun biving on the route. Have fun on your sufferfest!

[slaphappy]

For a guy asking for help "empty space" you sure have a piss poor attitude! Have fun Lambone!

[Guest]

Slaphappy,

I have been lurking these here boards for a while and have seen your unhappy postings so you have no room to talk. You are probably Lambone's friend anyway.....

Lambone,

You must be some twenty two year old young kid. I read that you work in a gym as well. Figures since you seem to come off with a hiddend sense of sarchasm. I can see right through it so no need to even reply with a fake have fun. This also applies for you slaphappy. You guys tromp these bulletin boards like you are the king climbers of the Northwest. Whatever. I think your phony replies are full of it and would prefer you keep your comments on someone else's threads.

Be safe and quit building your "chest beating" image that you have permeating around here.

 

[nolanr]

Office Space,

If you've been lurking for a while I would think you would expect the sarcasm and sometimes unhelpful responses mixed in w/ the helpful. Just the way it works here. One advantage of approaching from Ingalls Creek side is there are no restrictions on number of people that can be in the area. From Colchuck/Stuart lakes side, number of campers is limited and maybe even dayhikers, but I'm not positive about that. I'm curious, too. I don't doubt you can climb any kind of 5.9 route, but have you done multi pitch alpine routes? Not trying to be condescending, just curious.

[haireball]

responding to the original question: the approach I've always preferred for the lower north ridge is up mountaineer creek from the Stuart Lake Trail. Dayhiker permits for this trail are not limited to a quota - only overnight permits are so restricted. So, in and out in a day solves any permit issues related to approaching from the Icicle Canyon side. By using the Mountaineer Creek variation, you avoid the Stuart Glacier, and the necessity for crampons on the approach. I descended the Sherpa glacier couloir in dry conditions many years ago, using no ice gear other than a 60cm mountaineering axe. If you feel you need a belay, the couloir is narrow enough that rock anchors are easily available. The larger problem is the schrund below the couloir - we jumped it, but conditions change, as well as confidence levels. Another descent option shorter than the south side couloirs is the west ridge. I have not done this myself, but I'm told that once below the summit step, it's straightforward scrambling down to goat pass. If you e-mail me I can put you in touch with a friend who has used the west ridge descent... Good luck

[AlpineK]

I vote for the Stuart lake approach.

Quote:

I am not your girlfriend so I cannot comment on her abilities vs. mine. I can only say I can

climb 5.9 anything be it wide, chimney, overhang, slab, bolts, at any climbing area so I dont

think your unwarranted remarks are necessary. Referring to little si was merely because I like it

so much there on that greasy urban crag....

I do have one question for you space case. If you can lead any kind of 5.9 out there why on earth would you want to hang out at Little Si?

P.S. I don't want you to be my girlfriend, but I was wondering if you would like to be my bitch.

[This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-23-2001).]

[This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-24-2001).]

[Lambone]

Hey officespace,

I am really sorry I intruded on YOUR thread. I didn't realize it was yours. I thought maybe anyone could post on it. That is just how this website has worked in the past. I will be sure to remmber not to post on YOUR threads again...

Also, I really hope I don't get in YOUR way on YOUR climb. In fact, I will be real carefull not to knock any rocks of of YOUR mountain onto YOUR head.

Since you claim to be a 5.9 hardman, who can climb any 5.9 anywhere. I would assume you could offer some beta on the Steck-Salathe route in the Valley. It is one of my "projects."

Anyway, now that we all know you can climb any 5.9 at Little Si, you can relax. No need to impress any of us PNW hardmen anymore...

Come on dude, by claiming that you think you are ready for the North Ridge because you you can climb 5.9 at Little Si, you are just begging for spray! I am not an evil person, I just couldn't resist. This is all just fun and games, relax...

All sarcasm aside, the boys at Feathered Friends have some good beta on the Lower Ridge. They should be nice enough to help you out. If you pass me on the route I hope you have time to stop and puff a bowl! Peace Dog.

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

[Lambone]

We are thinking about starting the ridge at the halfway point via. the coulior from Stuart Glacier. Does anybody out there know if it is icy in that coulior? I'd really prefer to leave the crampons in the closet!

Hey officespace, I hate to say it, but I hope you've done something a bit more alpine than Little Si... Good luck. We should be a day ahead of you.

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

[Guest]

Mark,

Just one direct question. Do I really need crampons? Can I get away with 4 pointers? I think I am going to do the enduro sufferfest of a car to car push as well.

[Retrosaurus]

Lambone,

Put the crampons back in the box before you hurt yourself (or the livestock). Are you sure you didn't mean spurs?

[Guest]

Lambone,

If you are trying to imply that I am a gumby you should think twice.. Don't be surprised when we simul-climb past you after approaching from the car and returning to it in the same day.... Get off your high horse I come in peace.

[jblakley]

Lambone is just feeling a bit sheepish cause he was recently told that most people do Si in a day.

[Lambone]

Hey spacey take it easy! I wasn't implying anything. I just thought it was a little odd that you would even compare climbing 5.9 at Little Si to an alpine route like the North Ridge. My fiancee can climb 10c at Little Si... but she wouldn't even think about doing the North Ridge. See what I mean? Its like apples and oranges. Don't get so defensive.

P.S. Marshall at Feathered Friends has a good topo of the lower section.

If all goes as planned I should be rolling out of my bivi sac before you make it to the bottom of the ridge. Will you catch me...? I think not. But good luck. If you do I will shake your hand. Peace.

[This message has been edited by lambone (edited 07-23-2001).]

[mark]

We both took aluminum crampons and we took one ice ax between the 2 of us. The stretch of snow in the cascadian couloir was short (one rope length), but it was steep and hard. It would have been hard to avoid this one pitch of snow.

We wore light weight approach shoes (guide almighties), so we needed our crampons. With a heavier boot you may not need them at all. 4 pointers would probably suffice either way.

Maybe given the low snow year you could get around the snow on the rock. Anybody out there done the route lately who has beta regarding this?

Rgds

[erik]

bone,

steck-salathe has been upgraded to .10b. so this office dude is probably out of the loop. as far as your bro at feathers...yawn!

 

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by erik:

bone,

steck-salathe has been upgraded to .10b. so this office dude is probably out of the loop. as far as your bro at feathers...yawn!

---

Dude, upgrading it to 10b, they might as well retrobolt it!!!!! WEAK!!!!!! They should downgrade all those "10b"s to 5.9.

 

[Lambone]

Erik,

Who upgraded it? It is still 5.9 in every guide book I've seen. And if they up grade that route, they'll have to upgrade every 5.9 squeez in Yosemite!

But really fellas this is spacey's thread, quit intruding!

[Guest]

Lambone,

I think your childish remarks are again not wanted and you might want to consider what you type on these boards.

I will inform you that making threats such as dropping rocks onto us from above is something I will take seriously. If in fact I have anything fall on us be prepared to face some court actions based on those statements.

I never said it was my climb Lambone. Again your childish remarks are incorrect. I merely wanted info on gaining the lower ridge is all. I also stated I wanted no info on the upper route. I don't think I need to submit a climbing resume to get some info on a route. Another point I never said I was a 5.9 hardman I can only gather that you are begging for some internet brawl or something. If you cannot respect someone else's business maybe you need to learn a thing or two in life..

I know nothing about the Steck Salathe.

To the rest thanks for your replies If anyone else has info go ahead and type it up.