builttospill Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 My partner and I are looking to do a 2 week trip (or slightly longer) hitting both the Bugaboos and the Cascades from where we live in Utah. We've got a pretty good idea of what we're wanting to climb on the first leg in Canada, but I'm less familiar with the Cascade range. Basically, we're looking for good climbs (off the beaten track is fine though) in the 5.6-5.8 range. Alpine rock only, not interested in cragging. We should be pretty fit after a week of climbing (and a summer of climbing), and we don't mind suffering a little bit....and we like to move pretty quick. Somewhat more remote climbs would be preferred to dayclimbs in the "frontcountry." We've thought about going into the Pickets, but I'm not sure whether we're up for the bushwhacking up there, coming from the Rockies where bushwhacking is pretty limited. Spending some time at a base camp and climbing from there is appealing though. We'll be there the last week of August most likely (and maybe the first part of September also). Any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Well you should definitely hit the Washington Pass area. Even though it's not really backcountry, it feels like it. Maybe do Mt. Stuart too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 (edited) For more remote climbs look into routes on Gunsight Peak, Inspiration Feak, The Chopping Block, and Mt Triumph. These are not really remote as they can all be done in a long day from the car but otherwise fit your criteria: Prusik Peak - West Ridge Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Arete Mt Stuart - North Ridge or West Ridge Sherpa Peak - North Ridge or West Ridge Forbidden Peak - North Ridge or West Ridge These are not at all remote but are still excellent climbs: Liberty Bell - Beckey Route South Early Winter Spire - SW Rib Burgandy Spire - North Face Edited December 31, 2008 by danielpatricksmith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 If you don't want to schwack you should probably stick to WA Pass or the Enchantments. Though I wouldn't really say there's much schwacking getting into the Southern Pickets, but I guess its all relative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builttospill Posted December 31, 2008 Author Share Posted December 31, 2008 I don't mind some....I just wanted to make it clear that we are not quite as ready to suffer as some of you here (according to trip reports I've read here). We recognize the need to bushwhack, we're just not used to it is all. But for truly spectacular stuff, we'll do it. What would people recommend in the Pickets if we decide to venture there (preferably with a central camp to do 2-3 good climbs)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Definitly one of the north face routes on East Mac. Apparently the south face route on west Mac is good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marc_leclerc Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Slesse in technically in Canada but is still one of the coolest peaks in the Cascades. Check it out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyHarry Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 You guys might like the Torment - Forbidden Traverse, if you're into that sort of thing. Realistically day-trippable by a fast party. The West Ridge of Forbidden by itself is ultra classic as well, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 Slesse in technically in Canada but is still one of the coolest peaks in the Cascades. Check it out.... can't argue w/ that - slesse should be very high on your list of priorites, but it does come w/ the caveat that you gotta pay attention beforehand to the condition of the pocket-glacier that menaces its approach and can/has killed climbers before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builttospill Posted December 31, 2008 Author Share Posted December 31, 2008 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DPS Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days) And its even better in winter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted December 31, 2008 Share Posted December 31, 2008 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days) And its even better in winter! dammit! yet another december to roll around that i haven't been able to get up it (noth through lack of trying) maybe on one of my breaks in january? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
builttospill Posted January 1, 2009 Author Share Posted January 1, 2009 I take that back, I was thinking of a new route report that I read, the one that was like 5.10, AI3+ and the guys were castigated for taking such risks under the hanging glacier. I'm sure you all remember it....it was an interesting read a year or so ago when I found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 Yeah, that was a new route on the same side of Johannesburg from a couple years ago. Jens and DBerdinka I think? Had some cool pictures. The regular NE Buttress is just fine for mortals, and if you rap into the gully that leads onto the fabled snow rib rather than climbing the nasty chimney, the whole thing goes at about 5.0. Once you're on top, it's still a long ways down, so most folks are in for a night out somewhere on that outing. Highly recommended. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1 Posted January 1, 2009 Share Posted January 1, 2009 if you want to experience badass cascade old-school alpine hardmanedness, make johannesburg's north east buttress a top priority - it's a grade v climb that's *only* 5.6 (and holy shit, only a 15 minute approach!!!) but is a prime example of how concentrating on #'s like that is just silly - if you don't die, it'll be one of the coolest climbs you've ever done, even if you can climb 5.13 I've seen a trip report on this site for that climb haven't I? I think I'll pass.....I like adventure as much as the next guy, but that might be a bit much for me. Sorry to focus on numbers....I'm happy to climb 5.4 or even 4th class routes that are fun, but I need to limit the search somewhat in order to recieve helpful answers. Otherwise people will suggest 5.10 routes I can't climb and glacier slogs I'd rather not travel for. That's all. Thanks for the help though, everyone. These are some really good ideas. ok - i wouldn't dismiss it out of hand b/c of me though check out the various tr's on it here - it's not dangerous, just very easy to get to, very long, very exciting, very scenic and spectacular, and generally a climb that anyone who drives up the rd to cascade pass must dream about doing, given its instantaneous and spellbinding effect on the first glimpse - it's a mix of vertical forest, steep heather slopes, rock-scrambling (the crux is a 1/4 pitch chimney that's more realistically 5.8), then steepish glacier (in short, every kind of challenge the cascade's can throw at you rolled into one big mountain route - doable in 2 days) A couple friends did this route a few years back... Sounded epic but totally do-able. It's on my list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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