Ken_Abeldt Posted August 11, 2001 Posted August 11, 2001 I'm looking for 2 or 3 climbing partners to join a non-commercial, un-guided trip to "The Andes of Bolivia". This will be a 3-week trip, I'd like to spend the 1st. 14 to 16 days attempting the following mountains: Pequeno Alpamayo (17,618ft.) in The Condoriri Group, this will be a fantastic area to acclimatize in & also a great mountain to climb. Next, Huayna Potosi (19,974ft.), some guide books describe this mountain as one of the easier (6,000m.) peaks, but I think this will be a good mountain to step-up the altitude a little. Finally, Illimani (21,125ft.), which dominates the views from the capital city of La Paz, & is the most sought after peak in Bolivia! All 3 of these mountains are in The Cordillera Real Range & are only 2 to 3 hrs. from La Paz. After all the torture, I'd like to spend 4 or 5 days relaxing & checking out Lake Titicaca. My plans for this area are as follows: Catch a bus (4-hrs.) to Copacabana, stay the night & enjoy this town on the southern shore of the lake. Next, hike to Yampupata (4-hrs.), then jump on a rowboat for a short ride to Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). We'll spend 2-days exploring this wonderful little island. Then unfortunately, back home & back to work. Feel free to contact me with any questions or suggestions at: jandk@access995.com Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted September 10, 2001 Posted September 10, 2001 Hey Ken, I am planning to solo the five peak traverse of the Illimani massif around your time frame...may be we could hook up & do one or two of your warm up climbs. I was thinking of acclimitizing on Bolivias highest peak, Sajama. Interested? Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted September 11, 2001 Author Posted September 11, 2001 Hey! T.G., I was thinking about Sajama, Parinacota, & Pomerata at first until I kept hearing about the lack of water, & their distances from La Paz. I figured I'd plan a easier trip logistically this time. Then if I enjoy the country & it's people, I'll return for the others. Lets keep in touch, maybe we can get together down there, & also possibly share info. while these trips are in the planning phases. Quote
dkemp Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 My pals and I went there last year. Sounds like our trip was a little different than you are proposing, nevertheless we'd be happy to share whatever info you'd like. -Dox  Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted September 12, 2001 Author Posted September 12, 2001 DKemp, Any info. you could give me, would be appreciated. As you can read from my post, info on the following would help: Hotel, resturants, & things to do in & around La Paz & Lake Titicaca. Transportation to & from the mountains. Climbing routes, & security issues while at basecamps. Thanks, Ken Abeldt Quote
dkemp Posted September 12, 2001 Posted September 12, 2001 Hey Ken, I have sent you an email. It might be easier to converse that way. When we returned from Bolivia, my pal Doug wrote up a little article which we placed on our club site, http://www.bushwhackernewsletter.org/bolivia.htm - check it out. It includes the hotel name and guide service that we used. We didnt use guides except to deliver us to the climbing areas - this worked really well. More info to come either by email or cc.com. -Dox  Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted September 20, 2001 Posted September 20, 2001 Hey DKemp, Could you forward me that info as well. Thanks, TG Quote
texplorer Posted September 28, 2001 Posted September 28, 2001 TG and Ken, How much money are you guys looking at spending on your expeditions. I am looking at heading down to S America already and illimani sounds interesting. I am poor but I hear S America is cheap. Ultimately I want to do the Polish Glacier on Aconcagua. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted September 28, 2001 Posted September 28, 2001 Hey tex, I'm heading to do the Polish in Jan. with a couple of buds and the if time allows and I feel up to it I might solo a south face route. I am planning on spending about $1300 for the trip. Argentina is one of the most expensive So. Am. countries. Bolivia is cheaper and Peru is cheaper still. My all time favorite trip was climbing in Peru... better than the Himalayas by a long way. I gotta ask you a question, killer. Have you ever climbed higher than 17,000ft before? If not; set your sights on Mexico. [This message has been edited by Terminal Gravity (edited 09-28-2001).] Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted October 1, 2001 Author Posted October 1, 2001 Hey! T.G. & Tex, Yes, your right about being expensive. I just climbed Aconcagua this last Feb. With two other guys, we went un-guided up the normal route which reminded me of a high altitude Mt. Whitney. Lots of people & not much solitude, but that's o.k as long as you are aware of this before hand. For me it was a very social mountain, with people from all over the world there. I really had a good time, we also had some great weather, which made life easier. The most expensive aspect of it was, hiring mules, but I'm glad we did. The mule service we used came highly recomended by a friend who's been guiding on Aconcagua for 15 yrs. It was a good choice, he was very trust worthy & dependable. All of their prices were similar, so I would go with the one you trust. Ours was Sr. Daniel Alessio, here's his email if your interested: alessio@lanet.losandes.com.ar We were in Ecuador about 3 yrs ago & we spent 1/2 as much money as we just did in Argentina & Chile, but nobody got sick on this trip, unlike Ecuador, where we all got some bad food poisoning. Food & accomodations were more expensive, but I think well worth it! If you need any additional info. let me know. Quote
David_Parker Posted October 1, 2001 Posted October 1, 2001 Ken, I sent you an email about a month ago but didn't hear back. I am very interested in a trip like this. How do you want to continue further communication? Have resume, will travel. David Quote
Drew_Jones Posted October 2, 2001 Posted October 2, 2001 Hey, I'll be travelling around Peru and Bolivia for about a year starting March 2002. I don't have a climbing partner yet, so if anyone is interested in hooking up or travelling together, let me know. Drew Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted October 3, 2001 Author Posted October 3, 2001 Drew, Lets keep in-touch & share some info. before we leave. My e-mail address is at the beginning of this post. What are your plans for Bolivia & Peru, & what have you found out thus-far? If your going to be in Bolivia June & July, you'll have to e-mail me from down there to let me know of your where-abouts in La Paz. Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted October 9, 2001 Posted October 9, 2001 Ken, do you have your dates nailed down yet. Since you started this post and so many have responded let us know when you will be there and maybe we can pick our dates around yours. By the way; I just bought really cheap tickets to Argentina ( $749 Portland-Mendoza) for this January. I think fare wars have started and buying tickets to Bolivia soon might save some pesos. Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted October 10, 2001 Author Posted October 10, 2001 T.G. As for dates, I would like to leave as near of the beginning of June as possible, but could wait till the middle of June. This will all depend on everyone's schedule. I'm pretty flexible, I would just like to be down there, when the conditions are the most favorable. That's a great price for airline tickets! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Ken Abeldt: T.G. As for dates, I would like to leave as near of the beginning of June as possible, but could wait till the middle of June. This will all depend on everyone's schedule. I'm pretty flexible, I would just like to be down there, when the conditions are the most favorable. That's a great price for airline tickets! Hey isn't the climbing season down there during our winter? Or are you guys wanting to climb during the fiercest weather? Quote
mneagle Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 I left a long trip report a few months ago at: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000642.html Hope it helps. If anybody has any other questions feel free to e-mail me at mneagle@u.washington.edu Quote
Ken_Abeldt Posted October 10, 2001 Author Posted October 10, 2001 Hey! Capt. Caveman, Bolivia is one of the few countries in South America to have about the same time frame for climbing as North America. I thought it was strange myself at first, but their dry southern winter runs from May to September. Mneagle, Thanks for the note on your trip report, I'll check it out, & if I have questions I'll get back to you. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 10, 2001 Posted October 10, 2001 Killer. I thought I would ask instead of assume You never know. Have fun if you go. I wish I was..... Quote
tedshred Posted November 4, 2001 Posted November 4, 2001 Sounds like fun !I went to Bolivia in June, 2000. We climbed Pequeno Alpamayo & Huyana Potosi. I've got photos of the routes on my webpage. It's very easy down there to arrange rides to the peaks w/ trekking agencies. You don't need guides though on Huyana Potosi you may consider hiring a "camp guard", or you may be ripped off while you're on the route. If you don't hire one then don't leave money, passport, plane tickets, etc... in your camp. Also, if you camp above the main camp at the base of the glacier, you're less likely to have any theft problems.The site is: www.tedshred.org follow the links to the South America page, and then the climbing section. Enjoy ! Quote
Terminal_Gravity Posted November 4, 2001 Posted November 4, 2001 Are you TED SHRED of Chico, CA skate fame -by any chance? Quote
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