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Fred Beckey in the New York Times

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We went to Snow Creek wall to check out Hyperspace, a route befitting a climbing God. But unfortunately we couldn't decide who should be the ropegun and we both wanted the glory so we ended up not getting off the ground. That's the way it goes sometimes. I wanted to provide some beta so I at least showed the way across the creek.



Jeff Lowe arguably has a more impressive first ascent record. I asked him at his slide show once and he said "over 1000". A lot of them were big walls and hard technical climbing. I think that hardly any or none of them were first ascents of mountain summits however. Also, I don't think either of these two people are willing to discuss this in detail.

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Jeff Lowe certainly has plenty of Hard first ascents but as you said they are usually on mountains that have already been climbed. Beckey has explored so much and climbed in so many unexplored regions, climbed so many unclimbed peaks and so on.... I mean, Beckey spent a month in the Waddington Range and nabbed the 2nd ascent of Waddington (via the Weissner House)when he was barely older than me...


The thing that is really cool about Jeff Lowe is how he really pushed the technical standards of ice and mixed climbing. He was doing the FA's of some of the very first grade 6 ice routes to come about, he brought mixed climbing to the M8 level with his route 'Octopussy' (using straight shafted tools with Alaska Picks) and put up massive ice routes up in the Himalaya's....


Both of them have much respesct from me...

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Comparing a guy who tied a goldline around his waist with a bowline to a guy who used titanium ice screws is like comparing Michael Schumacher to me ol' uncle Sterling. More to the point, or pint as I subconsciously first typed, Fred didn't even know where he was going half the time or what he would see when he got there (having scored his beta in a loggers' bar)! He's living proof you can succeed in life in spite of having ADD (or maybe because of!) as long as you've a good heart and a gift of the gab. God bless him, he's a one-off!


luv ya Fred!

Reilly Moss


How come nobody uses their real names here?

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