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Posted

BD cams are great. My rack mainly consists of C4's and C3's and i've included some master cams and aliens to double up on my smaller sizes and to incorporate longer more flexible stems. If you plan on using your cams while wearing gloves go with BD. I don't have large hands by any measure and U shaped cams like DMM and metolius work terrible when i have gloves on.

 

I've heard of aliens freezing with wet and cold temps because of the webbing material on the trigger, but i haven't seen this first hand. Metolius master cams, i think, would be immune to freezing with their design.

 

Just my 2 cents.

 

 

Posted

I currently use Metoloius power cams and BD C4's. If I were to buy a new rack, I would buy the a set of C4's, C3's and Metolious master cams.

 

The BD cams are very smoooth, well built and reliable. The C3's are small enough for those tiny crack placements. The master cams are a replacement for aliens, and fit perfect into narrow pin scars.

Posted

I agree with both posters.

My dream rack would be a set of C3's to C4s, then as doubles Master cams to black and C4s on up.

FWIW I've found the 2 and 3 in Power Cams to be good with gloves, the smaller sizes? - depends on the glove.

Posted
Trying to decide whether I should go for single stem or U shaped. What have you guys used that you loved, liked or hated? Who makes the best of each?

 

If my second has bigger hands than I do, they often have some trouble cleaning the U-stemmed Metolius cams(I place them deeper without realizing I am doing so). On the up side, if a Metolius gets overcammed, you can rig a sling around the trigger and use your body weight to unstick it.

 

I recently added a yellow Omega Link cam to my rack. Love it! It gets used on most every climb. With the range of three cams(at the weight of two), it's sweet to throw in when you are too sketched to fiddle for just the right size; also good to save for gear anchors, so you are more likely to have a piece of the necessary size left on your rack.

 

 

 

Posted
Trying to decide whether I should go for single stem or U shaped. What have you guys used that you loved, liked or hated? Who makes the best of each?

 

If my second has bigger hands than I do, they often have some trouble cleaning the U-stemmed Metolius cams(I place them deeper without realizing I am doing so). On the up side, if a Metolius gets overcammed, you can rig a sling around the trigger and use your body weight to unstick it.

 

I recently added a yellow Omega Link cam to my rack. Love it! It gets used on most every climb. With the range of three cams(at the weight of two), it's sweet to throw in when you are too sketched to fiddle for just the right size; also good to save for gear anchors, so you are more likely to have a piece of the necessary size left on your rack.

 

 

 

the new small link cams are supposedly lighter then camalot equivalents

Posted
WC Forged friends outperform all others, are super light and can be often found on sale from retailers for 29 bucks each on the net.

If you're serious about getting some, best shake a leg as Wild Country has stopped making these. Whatever the US distributor has in stock is it, I believe.

Posted
WC Forged friends outperform all others, are super light and can be often found on sale from retailers for 29 bucks each on the net.

If you're serious about getting some, best shake a leg as Wild Country has stopped making these. Whatever the US distributor has in stock is it, I believe.

 

that too bad ... they are one of the best values out there

Posted

Yeah, though technical and forged friends are as good as ever, Wild Country doesn't seem to have much of a distribution network in the PNW. In Bham, our three gear stores all carry BD and Metolius cams, but none carry friends.

 

 

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