Mtnclimber Posted June 10, 2001 Posted June 10, 2001 The Canadian Rockies should be in shape sooner this year(July/Aug). Would anyone be interested in North/ Kain face of Mt. Robson or any other grade IV climbs in the Rockies. Quote
Wired_Knut Posted July 6, 2001 Posted July 6, 2001 I would be available the last two weeks of August to head up into the Canadain Rockies to tick off 1 or 2 of the 50 classics in the IV/5.6 range and/or something +/- a grade or class of which there are more options: Mt Sir Donald III 5.2 Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7 Mt Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6 Mt Edith Cavell,TNF IV 5.7 Mt Alberta, Japanese Route IV 5.6 Mt Temple, East Ridge IV 5.6 Reply and we'll talk about the possibilities. Quote
Pencil_Pusher Posted July 10, 2001 Posted July 10, 2001 How wired and how much of a nut are you? Quote
Dru Posted July 10, 2001 Posted July 10, 2001 OOOOh... sorry to be pedantic but....THE BUGABOOS ARE NOT PART OF THE ROCKIES!!!! They are in the "Interior Ranges", so there. When offering number grades, Wishbone Arete at 5.6 and Japanese Route on Alberta, ditto, is like calling the North Face of the Eiger, 5.7, it might be somewhat true technically, but it doesn't do the route justice. [This message has been edited by Dru (edited 07-10-2001).] Quote
AlpineK Posted July 10, 2001 Posted July 10, 2001 I thought the Interior range were renamed to the Columbia Mtns. I've done the Wishbone and the N Face of EC. You better be able to handle changing weather, bad rock with lots of run out and be able to solo easy but scary ice/snow. The rock is better on EC. They are both long routes. Solo as much as you can. Move, Move, Move!!! [This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-11-2001).] Quote
viktor Posted July 11, 2001 Posted July 11, 2001 I can split hairs, too. Sir Donald isn't in the Rockies either. If I were you, I'd start with Sir Donald (can be done in a day). Bugaboo East is even less committing but requires more time (usually spent waitng for weather). You tick 2 of the remaining 4 and you're a big hitter. Check out the east ridge of Edith Cavell, an unsung classic 5.4 on solid quartzite that may have a bit of easy snow/ice near the top. Almost as good as Sir Donald. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 11, 2001 Posted July 11, 2001 Right Viktor. If MrNut is half as nutty as Mtn then they will be a perfect team. Quote
Dru Posted July 11, 2001 Posted July 11, 2001 Good point Viktor & Capt. Congrats on the Cash Crags traverse by the way Capt. . Also its the NE ridge of Bugaboo, not the east ridge. Bugaboo doesnt even have an east ridge!! Also, planning on using "50 Classic climbs" as a guidebook, you deserve what you get - I won't say any more... Quote
nolanr Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 What happened to Purcells and Selkirks? Or are those subranges? Didn't climb it, but Sir Donald looked pretty cool from Abbot Ridge. Quote
philfort Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 The Purcells, Selkirks are all subranges of the Columbia Mtns I believe (along with the Cariboos, Bugaboos, etc...). Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 The Interior Ranges includes all mountains between the Columbia Valley/Rocky Mountain Trench, and the Okanagan. this includes the "Columbia Mts", Monashees, Purcells, Selkirks, Adamants, Valhallas, etc. etc. Just like the Coast Mountains includes the Pacific Ranges, Lillooet Ranges, Kitimat Ranges etc. and the Pacific Ranges includes the Tantalus Range, Spearhead Range, etc blah blah Quote
AlpineK Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 Your Canuck buddy Chic Scott lists all those mountains as the Columbia Mtns in Summits and Icefields. They are the same mountains that are listed in the clasic Interior Ranges North & South guides. [This message has been edited by AlpineK (edited 07-13-2001).] Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 Chic Scott and I don't get along that well. Find out why in the book review column of the 2001 Canadian Alpine Journal. Quote
Wopper Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 My wife and I climbed Mt. Victoria a couple years ago and stayed 2 nights at the Abbott Pass Hut. Chic Scott was the care taker during our time there. He was a cool guy. Very mellow, had a lot of interesting stories to tell and was obviously, very knowledgeable about the area. Didn't read his book or Dru's review, but Chic is allright by me. Quote
Dru Posted July 13, 2001 Posted July 13, 2001 I've got nothing against him personally but his history of canadian mountaineering book is kind of fucked when it comes to the coast and bc in general. Quote
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