[TR] South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Couloir 11/13/2008

[TyClimber]

Trip: South Early Winter Spire - Southwest Couloir

 

Date: 11/13/2008

 

Trip Report:

I don't normally write trip reports, mostly because I don't climb anything cool enough to brag about it! But, I thought people might appreciate the conditions update so here it goes.

 

I headed up to WA Pass and did the SW couloir on South Early Winter Spire today. It required a bit of grovelling to get to the climb but the route itself is in fantastic condition, way better than I had even hoped for. I was able to pass the chockstone fairly easily on the left and then it was pretty cruisy all the way up the couloir. Most of the way it was perfect step kicking snow, with occasional stretches of neve on the steeper sections. There was a bit of wind loading right at the top, but nothing too nasty. The section where the couloir narrows down and steepens was the most interesting as there were a few moves of thin snow over rock, but a bit of searching easily found solid placements.

 

I imagine that there is a pretty small window before the highway gets closed down for the winter so get on it while you can!

 

Gear Notes:

Two tools, crampons

 

Approach Notes:

Bring snowshoes!

[DPS]

Thanks for the conditions update!

[KaskadskyjKozak]

 

 

Hey, cool! Got a pic or two?

[triggerhappy]

Enough snow up there to ski?

[TyClimber]

No, probably not enough snow to make for good skiing yet. I think one more big dump and you should be set for some good turns up high though.

 

Sorry, but no pics.

[moira armen]

Climbed the route Saturday. Postholed up to the base, then good kick steps for most of the route. The steep part was thin snice over friable rock. Still a great day in the mountains!

 

We fixed some anchors to get down--slings on trees and two pins in the protected overhang after the steep section. How do people normally get down this?

[genepires]

most people descend the south arete. But they do your route in the spring when the arete is snow free. Or descend the gulley when it is packed with snow. I snowboarded the thing once a long time ago in the spring.

 

nice job! Hard to imagine the hwy is still open. Did you come up from the hairpin turn or the reg blue lake trailhead?

[Doug_Hutchinson]

Went from Blue Lakes TH. At the rate this winter is going, the highway will be open for a few more weeks? They'll plow until the avy danger gets too high (bring the snow!)but that aint gonna happen for at least a week or two and plowing the occ few inches is easy now. The skiing was just barely in but at least turns could be had somewhere...

 

The roadcuts had ice that was forming but is probably gone again.