JosephH Posted July 29, 2010 Posted July 29, 2010 Hey, glad you guys like going up there, but that panel is free-climbable without additional fixed pro or removing anything and it saw no shortage of aid ascents in the past without altering, adding or removing anything. It would be a bummer to lose the ability to free climb the line just for the sake of convenience. Quote
pink Posted July 30, 2010 Posted July 30, 2010 caught us all by suprise - larry n' steve got pissed on as well - sure brought the mozzies out in a vengeance afterwards too sharp edges aren't the issue on silver crow - a million pounds of rock shearing off in your face b/c you had the audacity to actually touch it is - a 10 foot by 10 foot section above the roof sounds like a dirty hippy bongo band from afar as you cross over it  Well, at least it's large enough to adequately cover your grave.  Ujahn had been talking up this finger crack route he'd been cleaning elsewhere. I went out one day and soloed climbed the route using his fixed line. I get up under this column that is the right side of his "fantastic Fingercrack". I look carefully and as the climbing was hard there and as I'm edging up directly under it notice that the damn thing is not touching the main wall on any of it's sides. It appears to be free hanging like an icecycle. It's just hanging free right over my head like the sword of Damoclese ready to chop my neck which I'd stuck right out there....holy crap, I can't reverse the moves without weighting the rope and the rope is going to put pressure on the upper part of this death block somewhere (that I can't even see from below) I don't know it my weight would dislodge the thing.....I had to weight it eventually. I felt so lucky that thing didn't fall off there as it would have been instant death.  I come back and describe this to him, and we show up the next weekend with my pry bar. He goes up to lever and I was @ a 1/4 mile back ground spotting as he cranked this thing: which turned out to be @ 15' across and about that long, 2" out from the wall- @ 100' up. It moved remarkably easy and the roar and crash, despite being a long distance from my cush spot, still had me scrambling and moving at high speed to duck for cover behind the boulder I had been resting on. It was so loud! Quote
ivan Posted July 30, 2010 Author Posted July 30, 2010 Hey, glad you guys like going up there, but that panel is free-climbable without additional fixed pro or removing anything and it saw no shortage of aid ascents in the past without altering, adding or removing anything. It would be a bummer to lose the ability to free climb the line just for the sake of convenience. Â if you recall joe, the first 5 pages or so of this thread involved you saying that - alot did something change? Quote
JosephH Posted July 31, 2010 Posted July 31, 2010 Sorry, Bill talking about trundling made me nervous about it again. But then I can testify he's a world class trundler after his 'Slim Pickens' ride on the big one the other day - that was a sight to behold. Quote
JosephH Posted July 31, 2010 Posted July 31, 2010 She's been slammed but will be posting the whole saga up shortly... Quote
pink Posted July 31, 2010 Posted July 31, 2010 Woot! I heard Hanmi has a photo of that? Â pics of u with "little dawg" drillin that bolt ladder high on the north face??? ya know if it were up to joseph he'd remove that bolt ladder. Quote
JosephH Posted July 31, 2010 Posted July 31, 2010 Haven't been up it to see if there's pro on the line, but it would have to be a real bolt ladder before I'd say anything. If folks want to practice aid on that face I don't have too many complaints; just a suggestion to be careful with big loose stuff up high. Quote
miker Posted August 1, 2010 Posted August 1, 2010 The weather was fine there that morning for the Corner, don't know what you guys are talking about... Quote
hanmi Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Woot! I heard Hanmi has a photo of that? Â I got it all right... Â I also posted this image (among others) on the BR Opening thread Quote
JosephH Posted August 3, 2010 Posted August 3, 2010 Hard to tell, but the line I'm pulling on is attached to the wedging block under Bill's feet and he's jumping up and down like a mad man on that diving board piece of rock trying to lever the big boy off. I stopped him and asked him if he thought that was a good idea and he stopped, looked at me for a second, and went back to jumping up and down on it until the whole shebang cut loose, him with it until his rap line kicked in and pulled him off of it and to the side with me. Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Wow, that Bill Coe has more balls then.....buttocks. Joseph, I thought you were going climbing with Adam today, are you blackberrying from the crag? Quote
billcoe Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 I had a great time hanging with you that day JH, thanks. It was a hell of a lot more enjoyable than what I've been doing, and having a great ground support crew (Kenny and Hanmi, a sharp-eyed pro photographer no less!) lined up, ready and dialed-in was awesome. BTW, I got home early and exhausted, had taken a shower and was probably sleeping by 3pm. My wife just shakes her head as I'm waking up all bleary-eyed, pillow-haired and muscle sore creaking around and smiling she says: "you sure got old:-)" Â It's nice to do something which has value to other people that is also enjoyable and in which one survives to play another day. Appreciate both your organizational skill of dialing this in and your company out there, thanks again for the invite. Good times! Thank you again for the photos Hanmi! Quote
denalidave Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Couldn't go which was a drag... I thought that was maybe you on Dod's this evening. Looked like someone was rope soloing it and I did not see a second. I was at the boat launch so it was a bit far to be sure. Curious who else is out rope soloing there though. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 I had a great time hanging with you that day JH, thanks. Quite literally, but the honor was entirely mine for having such a great front row seat for the big show... Â Fabulous shooting Hanmi. Â P.S. Wasn't me on Dods. Wish I was, though it's a burly roped solo if that's what they were doing - not sure I'm ready for that just yet this year. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Hanmi, those are great shots of the upper pitches of Lost Warriors as well (the tree that came down used to be the last belay for it) which Bill and I did the FA of (with the help of a few other folks on the first pitch, and Karsten on the FFA). Â Â Â Â [ The green dot is an anchor that, with two 60's, will get you straight down to the 'Boardwalk' anchor. ] Â Â Quote
stevetimetravlr Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Since you guys are in the trundling mode, on that 2nd pitch of Dastardly there is about a one foot by one foot round stone just setting there at the base of the final wide crack as you start up. You are tempted to put your foot on it, and if someone does they may roll it right off. On Monday, it didn't look like anyone had been that way this season due to the blackberry sticker Adam and I encountered, so I don't think it gets much traffic but there is that rock just waiting for a good launch! You can't see if anyone is below you at that point, so thats a problem. Quote
JosephH Posted August 4, 2010 Posted August 4, 2010 Steve, yeah, there are a couple over there. Meant to get over there in this year's pre-open, but we got too busy. Still intend to make it out there one night coming up and hit that stretch and the area between Grassy Ledges and the 'Chimney'. Quote
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