jesselillis Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 I'm looking for a good picture of the route up the South face of Prusik, in the Enchantments. Partner and I attempted to approach and climb the South face of Prusik Saturday. I don't recommend pushing the approach+climb (and return to camp or car) this time of year unless you already know the trail, approach and route pretty well, and can move quickly with a rack and camping gear. I'm sure we started up the climb in the right spot, traversed a bit right from the higher trees (top of 2nd pitch) to the slabby/knobby section, but then couldn't find the chimmney with chockstone. Wound up heaven-knows-where-but-starting-to-feel-like-5.10+ off-route, and bailed off some nuts in the dark. The description of the route I read said you could see the chock stone from the ground (to my discredit I did not look for it at the start, and I obviously couldn't see it in the dark when we got down). Does anyone have a pretty good picture of the route they could post here, send me (PM), or direct me to by URL? I'd like to know where the heck I was supposed to have gone. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRep Posted October 20, 2008 Share Posted October 20, 2008 That's where everyone who gets off-route goes off-route at. It didn't seem too difficult when we were there, you just needed to head up and right on the slabs and then back left so you put yourself 100' above your belayer. It's more of a gully than a chimney. Sounds like a full on adventure for ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tradhead Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 The big patch of trees to the left of the red spot on the cliff are the top of the second pitch according to Nelson and Potterfield (one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope to there.) From there we traversed right under a steeper section of rock on sparsely potected moderate knob/face climbing then headed upward following the groove below the chockstone. Someone more computer literate then me could probably draw the line on the photo for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 I just made this real fast, but this is how I remember the route going. The mistake we made the first time going up was heading left at the top of pitch 2 (dirty 10+?). If you head out right from the trees, you come to the crack system that takes you to the chockstone and the chimney. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jesselillis Posted October 21, 2008 Author Share Posted October 21, 2008 You guys nailed it Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted October 21, 2008 Share Posted October 21, 2008 Looking at this photo makes me mad. I have failed to climb this route 3 times. The first time, I went up there with two others and the weather was threatening, they weren't psyched, and we climbed the lovely West Ridge instead (which was a very good route). The second time, it poured down rain on us and we never even attempted to climb. The third time, I got all the way to the chockstone itself before a fast-moving lightning storm rolled in, lit up the basin in a wild display complete with hail and high winds, and we bailed... I hate the idea of going back up there to try again, but hate the idea of failing three times worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 http://www.mountainwerks.org/alexk/climb/TRprusik.htm Scroll down, click for route overlay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mountainmatt Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 Or... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted October 22, 2008 Share Posted October 22, 2008 It looks like you guys ended up moving left over to Der Sportsmen. I imagine you guys bailed somewhere off to the left of the climber in my pic of pitch 3. We bootied a bunch of gear a bit above this point. Proabaly a common mistake. Those who dont mind french freeing a couple of 11+ moves could finish this way via a few high quality 10+ pitches. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Don't know what your looking for but you might check out this page too. Mountain Project -Prussik Peak Page Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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