ivan Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - Riverside (or why I :heart: Pink) Date: 10/19/2008 Trip Report: the norseman riverside bitches! funktacular beginnings awkward "where in the hell?" surely i brought a pair of balls w/ me? starting into the most entertaining traverse thanx to crackman for taking all the shots, and to geoff as always for the patient belays and pink, it was well worth my time to finally get over to this history lesson: the comfy, mossy ledge at the base of this gem was called the "mushroom ledge" by opdycke for their fungal proclivities back in the 80s, apparently prior to the establishment of the land of the little people anchor situation - an old 1/4 head bolt w/ decent hanger and a large, sturdy pin - junk webbing at the moment, plus a new bit of cord and bail biner - there's room for a bomber nut to back it all up w/ too - looks pretty easy to top out from here, but i shudder whenever i think of re-entering the fuck-awful amphitheater of remorse cold this morning!!! Gear Notes: Approach Notes: little wing => fear of flying => jill's thrill => riverside Quote
pink Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 far fucking out ivan, way to get on it. sounds like you had a perfect day Quote
JosephH Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 Ha, good for you Ivan. Hanmi and Jim Meyer climbed it Sunday as well. Jim and I ended up giving it a whirl on a lark Saturday (after deciding against LW), but I backed off of it as we didn't have the requisite small gear. I meant to get back up on it Sunday as well, but Rhoda and I ended up hiking Hamilton instead. Jim and Hanmi did end up going back up and getting the job done, so it was clearly a big day for Riverside. Next time I'm out I'll be getting back on it and replacing the anchor. Riverside should see way more traffic than it does... Quote
ivan Posted October 20, 2008 Author Posted October 20, 2008 pink - have you done any of the routes between riverside and the party ledge? Quote
JosephH Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 I started on the one that goes slightly left and straight up instead of going onto the party ledge as you're heading up the last few moves up to it. Has a shrubbery in the middle of it that would need to be cleaned out. Nice moves up to and through the same sort of 'pod' as the lower one on Riverside. Quote
ivan Posted October 20, 2008 Author Posted October 20, 2008 there are several shown in the olson book, many w/ ___________'s for route-names that make me interested - a very cool area for sure as the rock is much kewler up above grassy ledges as it's coarser and much more textured, as i discovered after removing most of the flesh from my right hand and bleeding like a pig all over riverside the pod features are wacky - i feel very, very sore today from the workout of full on, half-assed body jams Quote
JosephH Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 It is a bit of a sandbag at 10b - clearly a 10c... Quote
ivan Posted October 20, 2008 Author Posted October 20, 2008 Did you free it? not in any conventinal sense of the word on lead i hung from my fifi several times and frenched a couple of the pieces that had taken away the nice finger pockets - did manage to free it on tr afterwards, but still didn't do it perfect - i embrace the suck and become stronger despite it! again, if i stuck only to the shit at beacon that i can free in good form, i'd only be doing a handful of routes, and it's too cool a place to go ignoring so many funktacular routes, no? Quote
kevbone Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 It is a bit of a sandbag at 10b So is most of Beacon. Quote
JosephH Posted October 20, 2008 Posted October 20, 2008 It is a bit of a sandbag at 10b So is most of Beacon. You're not going to get an argument from me... Quote
wayne Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 You guys should look at "High and mighty!" Hasnt seen a lead yet!! Quote
ivan Posted October 29, 2008 Author Posted October 29, 2008 You guys should look at "High and mighty!" Hasnt seen a lead yet!! tell me more. where is it? Quote
JosephH Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 am in LA and inadvertently wired up in a cardio unit near my conference with a dying cell - can't read or respond to pm's as the dropdown doesn't work on my phone. Will when out... Quote
billcoe Posted October 29, 2008 Posted October 29, 2008 am in LA and inadvertently wired up in a cardio unit near my conference with a dying cell - This sounds bad. Is your ticker OK? Quote
JosephH Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Docs said multiple EKGs and bloodwork were negative, I maxed out their stress tester, and the before & after ultrasounds of the ticker were good. They said I had a very strong heart. Good to know (or at least Rhoda was happy to hear it...). The only indicator of what might be wrong was an elevated white blood cell count. They said it looked like I got hammered by the dual onset of a virus and 'acid reflux' which simulated a heart attack - go figure. But I've never experienced a sensation like that for hours on end so it was pretty disconcerting. I ended up there as my step-sis is an ER doc in LA and when I called her about it she sent me to Good Sams. She said a younger doc friend hers went to a conference in Florida and ignored very similar symptoms and ended up dead the next day. Better safe then sorry, but I was unprepared for the level of triage and fuss! Had to basically rip the IV out of my arm and the monitor patches off to get finally get the discharge process moving or I'd still be there. I see I'm getting home just in time for the weather to go to hell - can't complain I guess as I've now been checked out for another year or two of climbing... Quote
JosephH Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Me too! It kind of sucks spending 24 hours never being further than four feet from a defibrillator unit. Quote
billcoe Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 Due to having poorly read your earlier comment, I wandered off wondering/thinking you may have been working some kind of software for a cardio unit and that's why you were there. I'm dense. Damn. Well, there may be something behind the scenes yet. Remember that extended malaise you had going in the not too distant past. I was a strange thing that, so keep paying attention. Guy at works sister was in for a routing physical with the mammogram 3 months ago, everything fine. Noticed a lump 2 weeks ago and has malignant cancer spreading through her body. Had the removal surgery yesterday, but won't know if they even got it all for a while. Keep an eye out: ....glad you're OK! Quote
ivan Posted October 31, 2008 Author Posted October 31, 2008 jeebus dude! can you like, please not die and shit? Quote
ivan Posted October 31, 2008 Author Posted October 31, 2008 You guys should look at "High and mighty!" Hasnt seen a lead yet!! think i've figured out where this is - i'll make it my next project for you, master wallace Quote
JosephH Posted October 31, 2008 Posted October 31, 2008 In the [almost] post-mortem I remembered I the thursday before last I took my parents for a flu shot and got one myself - could also have all been a bad reaction to that apparently... Quote
ivan Posted October 3, 2010 Author Posted October 3, 2010 did the upper pitch above riverside yday w/ the mighty justinp - fuck, how did i get WORSE at climbing the first pitch after 2 years? the ratty anchor's still there, still good enough, and still sporting my 2 year old cordalette - good to have a big nut or .5-.75 cam to actually put the load on though we topped out to the norseman's head, my only excuse for doing such a lame job of leading the business pitch of riverside - justin led from the 1st anchor to the pin at the base of the short, steep crack that marks the exit of the arena of dome - funky, funky climbing, but worth it for the adventure - seconding it, i discovered an old abandoned anchor out on the arete, looking down into the chasm - 3 old 1/4 inchers w/ the nuts n' washers rust-welded to the studs and no hangers - clipped all the annoying brush on the last pitch to encourage the masses to enjoy this neglected corner of hell Quote
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