Grip strength.

[epb]

Anyone ever do any grip or finger strengthing exercises? On rock I find my fingers and hands go limp before my arms for the most part. I used to have a gripmaster and all, but I gave up on it. Any ideas?

[Lambone]

I like power putty, probably cause I use to squeeze my gum as a kid.

[epb]

Do you actually do a set regime with it?

[Lambone]

Uhhhh...yeah, squeeze it 400 times and then try to pick your nose.

No really, its cool cause you can also stretch it out with your fingers. That way you work the opposing muscles (whatever the techy term is...Courtney???)

They also make three different densities of putty, depending on if you are recovering from injury, warming up, or training hard.

Way better than the grip master or a tennis ball, but hard to find

[MysticNacho]

The hangboard is the way to go. Hang on that thing 10 seconds on, 10 seconds off, 10 sets, then switch positions. Gets the fingers nice and pumped. Just recently tried to do 10 sets hanging from one handed though.... Lordy lordy, thats a whole new can of worms.

[epb]

I was wondering if a hang board is the way to go...however I have no wear to hang it. My walls are plaster, and I can't drill into them

[Figger_Eight]

Get one of them Black Diamond donuts and have it in the car. As you're driving around, squeeze the crap out of it. Also, Alex Lowe used to hike around gripping rocks. The trick is to incorporate it into every day's routine.

[epb]

yeah, I was thinking about bringing my grip master to class..however I though people might get the wrong idea

[sexual_chocolate]

quote:

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Originally posted by epb:

I was wondering if a hang board is the way to go...however I have no wear to hang it. My walls are plaster, and I can't drill into them

---

You just have to find the studs behind the plaster with a special tool called the stud finder. Then drill pilot holes into the studs, and commence hanging the chosen one onto the chosen location. Then ye shall choose the work-out which doth seem the finest in all of existence, which will then quickly transform thee into a heathen sport-climber, able to run laps on rock routes that traddies eye with enviousity indeed. Indeed I say unto you, fare thee well.

[epb]

yeah but you need some special shit to drill through plaster with so it doesn't all chip off and fall apart (as I found out that happens when I was hanging some pictures ) ...it's not the same as drilling through dry wall.

[ 12-06-2001: Message edited by: epb ]

[haireball]

many strength coaches recommend the dead-lift as a great move for building grip, and after using it a few years, I'd have to concur. on a standard dead-lift, I pull nearly twice my bodyweight. this would be like doing hangboard workouts with a 150lb pack (I weigh 180), but the deadlift has the added advantage of training your back and legs as well - and I prefer to bag as many birds as possible with each stone I cast...

or try doing bench step-ups in sets of 20-30 with a 50lb dumbell in each hand (start with lighter weights if you have to, and work up - increasing the weight when you can complete a set of 30 repetitions) - this will not only develop a killer grip for you, but killer lungs as well...

[Bronco]

farmer carry - pick up a heavy barbell (no, not a farmer) palms facing in, and walk as far as possible before setting it down.

I like to do this when working in my swamp and pickup big rocks or slimy old logs and stagger around through the knee deep mud. That will kick your ass.

[Courtenay]

Ah, grip training. Farmer's walk is a great one -- here is a link to some other ideas on our Body Results web site:

http://www.bodyresults.com/S2preseason3.htm

[epb]

Dead lifts are killer for your grip I agree. I used to do dead lifts when I was lifting. Also shoulder shrugs (for your traps)...when I first starting doing these, my grip would go before my traps would feel any work. Everyone told me to use straps to take the weight of my hands...I didn't, and my grip got amazingly stronger withing a few months just from having to hols the weight and shrug with it.

[tedserres]

I second EPB, I had the same experience

[haireball]

WOW! finger extensor work! maybe all this hanging around on this site will prove to be worthwhile after all! Thanks

(and please, folks, this is not meant tongue-in-cheek! I really had overlooked this concept...)

[Courtenay]

<< No really, its cool cause you can also stretch it out with your fingers. That way you work the opposing muscles (whatever the techy term is...Courtney???) >>

That's what it's called -- working opposing muscles (agonists and antagonists) -- in gripping and climbing, finger flexors get all the work; training the extensors against a rubber band, bucket of rice, or silly putty/dough type training will help keep finger and forearm tendons healthy and strong. For more on finger training visit a few of the Body Results pages:http://www.bodyresults.com/E2fingerextensor.htm http://www.bodyresults.com/E2fingertraining.htm and http://www.bodyresults.com/E2fingertendons.htm

[Courtenay]

Haireball has some great suggestions -- deadlifts and good mornings both for grip AND back/leg muscles, and dumbbell step ups. Someone else also has suggested (back to the ice thread) framing houses, chopping wood, carrying awkward objects so the hands get used to all sorts of dimensions -- I even like to carry as many bags of groceries as I can possibly stack in my fingers (plastic bags) and tote them home -- forearms, shoulders/traps, fingers, low back and legs all at once. Yeah, I know, I probably look really foolish, but any way you can get in real life strength training as opposed to having to set a time to get to the gym is a plus for most people!!

[nolanr]

For what it's worth, back when I was lifting all the time (not as training for climbing, just for the sake of lifting) I think my forearms were overstressed and my grip strength was kinda weak. Basically anytime you're hanging on to a bar or dumbbell, your forearms are going to be working. I ended up having to use those wrist wrap things for bent over rows or shrugs for the traps, otherwise the target muscle wouldn't even get fatigued before my grip gave out.

I'm surprised some of you aren't feeling it in your lats when you do pull ups. That's definitely the primary muscle involved. There's tons of accessory muscles helping out, but you simply can't do a pull up w/out the lats.

[nolanr]

Oops, that last comment was related to one of the other threades.

[Ibex]

Hey,

What is the exercise known as a "good morning"?

Cheers

[Courtenay]

Good mornings are a strength exercise for lower back and hamstrings, similar to the stiff-leg deadlift but with barbell behind the neck rather than a barbell in hands held at thighs. Key is to hinge forward at the hips, keeping back flat for arched-back good mornings, or rounded for rounded-back good mornings. You can also do them seated or with a staggered (split) stance. They get their namesake from the Orient tradition of bending forward at the hips as in a bow while saying "good morning" (or whatever it would be in their native tongue.

[haireball]

right! and just for the record, I did not (nor will I ever) suggest good mornings. that move scares the brown out of me - best left to folks who are well beyond taking suggestions from the likes of me... I like the dead-lift because it has a huge safety margin: I get to start with the weight on the ground, and when I start the pull, if my hips rise faster than my shoulders, I can safely let go of the bar before I hurt myself! (can you say "wimp"?, or at least "chicken"? I kinda like the current configuration of my vertebrae...)

[Courtenay]

...and along the same lines as this thread, good mornings will do absolutely NOTHING for grip, as the bar is resting behind your body. Not for novices. If you want to do a similar move and get the same benefits of back strengthening and grip, stiff-leg (NOT straight-leg; keep slight bend in knees) or regular deadlifts (bending knees, lifting from floor) are awesome. Just make sure you have someone show you proper form who knows what they're doing and what your body needs.

[freak]

Fingerboard, use weights if you can hang the holds longer than 10 seconds.

check out www.trainingforclimbing.com I think thats the site its got all that stuff, nic