Mt Rainier - winter time

[Pete04]

My buddy and I climbed Rainier this summer as a two person team. To up the ante, we were looking at giving it another shot this winter.

Both of us are not wicked experienced (a couple summits between the two of us) but definitely aren't 100% newbies either i.e, we'd be looking for ppl of similar or higher experience than us (basically, we definitely can't be "guiding" anyone). Both of us are familiar with crevasse rescue and basic glacier travel and I have rudimentary avalanche knowledge (looking to greatly increase it this fall and early winter). Both of us are in solid physical shape.

Does climbing a mountain in the middle of winter sound like fun to anyone else? Advice from others who may have climbed it in the winter would also be welcome (Rainier TRs from the winter months seem to be lacking on cc.com)

 

- Pete

[jmo]

I'm be interested. I've got about the same experience level as the both of you.

[DPS]

Advice from others who may have climbed it in the winter would also be welcome (Rainier TRs from the winter months seem to be lacking on cc.com)

 

Plan to go later in the season - Late February through March. Early in the season the prevailing winds from the south scour that side of the mountain leaving thin, weak snow bridges. Sastrugi snow forms, effectively concealing crevasses.

 

There is typically a high pressure system around President's Day weekend that is fairly reliable.

 

Gibralter Ledges route is one of the better choices for winter routes.

 

Dress warm.

 

Bring extra fuel.

 

Know how to safely descend to Paradise in a white out - the climbing rangers can give you a little map with compass bearings and way points. Those GPS thingys work pretty well too. Wands are a good idea above Camp Muir.

Edited September 21, 2008 by danielpatricksmith

[korup]

The fact that there are plenty of real hardmen and women in the area, and very very few winter TRs should tell you something! Just getting to Muir in the winter can be nearly impossible. Not to say you shouldn't try, but it is a whole other type of endeavor than a summer stroll.

[Pete04]

Just getting to Muir in the winter can be nearly impossible. Not to say you shouldn't try, but it is a whole other type of endeavor than a summer stroll.

 

Yea - we're expecting a very different mountain this winter than we experienced this summer.

It seems like if you plugged in a ton of waypoints (like one every few hundred yards) into your GPS, wanded your route, and had a map with bearings pre-calculated for compass-only navigation you could be OK in low vis situations. No? Any other considerations for white-outs? It seems that whiteouts around Muir (or anywhere) cause many of the tragedies on the mtn. Is travel in a white-out situation possible (with above - or other - techniques)?

[korup]

Biggest issues are the 900+ inches of snow (even with skis, trying to move uphill in nipple deep drifts? you'll be puking after 10 minutes), serious avalanche dangers, etc etc. And in a serious blizzard whiteout (not just fog) your GPS and wands are not going to help. Snowcave for 4 days? That's your option.

[aussie69]

Traveling in complete white outs ARE difficult, but NOT impossible like most will lead you to believe. Word to the wise. Know the muir route like the back of your hand before you get out of your warm car. this simple knowledge is what can save the most lives... Move from landmark to landmark. Of course GPS and Compass are the first resources to turn too. Did my muir trip last winter in mid December, pure white out STRONG winds (oxy moron eh?), but was fine, and w/o a doubt if you study up you'll be fine just as well.

cheers and good luck. perhaps we'll see ya on your way up. couple friends and I are going at it in winter as well.

~till then~

[CascadeClimber]

Does climbing a mountain in the middle of winter sound like fun to anyone else? Advice from others who may have climbed it in the winter would also be welcome (Rainier TRs from the winter months seem to be lacking on cc.com)

 

- Pete

 

Having tried many times in the winter I can say decidedly that it is not fun. It's cold. And hard. And psychologically tedious. And likely to result in not summiting...unless you stumble into perfect conditions (missed by a damn day in February). That said, yes, I'm interested in flogging myself against The Mountain again this winter.

[Pete04]

ha - yea it does NOT sound fun, but for some reason we really want to do it. Who knows why?!

What kept you from the top in previous attempts?

 

Between these posts and some PMs looks like a group may be materializing...

[BundledUpSurfer]

(btw: sent you a pm)

I would say snow conditions could pose biggest problems. Post holing at altitude can wear out even the fittest climbers. When I went to Muir in the winter I was sinking nearly a foot on my 80+mm skis (0 degrees at Muir that night according to NOAA). On the other hand, this years first ascent was made after a perfect melt-freeze cycle followed by a perfect weather window and low avalanche danger. I read the report on Gauthier's site and it seemed like they were able to walk right to the top on firm/wind swept snow.

 

Also, that perfect aforementioned weather window back in late January happened between Tuesday and Friday. I went up to Mt. Baker that Saturday and literally watched the latest bad-weather system take over the mountain from my tent on Heliotrope ridge. Sucked eggs.

 

btw: I'm also looking to do a Rainier winter ascent.

[Maine-iac]

If I can find a decent weather window, a ride up there, and probably a partner; A winter climb of Rainier is #1 on my list. Say you get up to Muir and it is just dumping and shitty, well then you get face shots all the way back to your car. If things are good, you get a ski off the summit.... What's not to like?

[ropegoat]

I probably be throwing myself at it this winter too. Not sure if any of my other local crazy goons are down, but I think I am...

 

I've still got a lot to learn before I tele off the top though.

[cbcbd]

Snow, wind, cold... sounds fun to me, but I'll probably be taking my vacations days and doing other things with it.