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Camalot plus dogbone?


Draagun1

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...actually, i think a girth hitch works like a knot in that some of the base material is compromised by the knot...i don't have the numbers, but a figure 8 fails a rope at something like 90% (again, i'm pulling out of my ass here)...

 

Experiments show that a figure 8 fails at around ~70% of rope strength, which is about what I remembered. I was surprised that the bowline reduced the strenght more...

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Good read, mk.

 

As a reference point, the Mountain Rescue Association uses a reduction of 1/3 of rope strength in calculating the 10:1 goal for the static system safety factor (SSSF) for the addition of any knot in the system. So any knot in a 30kN climbing rope immediately throws it down to a 20kN working rope. That would mean, say, hauling a dead vertical load of 2kN (a victim, a rescuer, and a litter/other crap) is right at the 10:1 SSSF.

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Personally I would stay away from building a habit of girth hitching soft to soft as you're describing. I’d do it in a heart beat if I had to, but I just think it should be considered a last resort instead of a primary method. The loose sewn or tied slings are a much safer way to go as mentioned above in pindude's post. my $0.019999999999

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