geoff Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Plan to try out my new bomb shelter tomorrow. Should be interesting trying to hang it and might actually have an excuse to deploy the fly. May try to climb YW or something in the afternoon. Come on out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 16, 2009 Author Share Posted January 16, 2009 hey moof, how would the new anchors do for holding a portaledge? is the wall there nice and flat? any place for backup gear to reinforce the anchor/haul? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 16, 2009 Share Posted January 16, 2009 Anyone been up to Beacon lately? How's the wind? Looks dry enough but I'm seeing reports of strong winds up there. Anyone going to brave the cold and do it this weekend? -Nate The wind is nuking pretty steady right now. I was running down the trail yesterday and it felt like I was being pushed up backwards. Temps have been in the mid 30's but plenty of sunshine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Did the Corner and the first pitch of YW yesterday with Tom from Seattle. It was definitely stout out there, but still moderate temp-wise compared to some conditions I've climbed in out there in winters past. I suspect today (sat.) was seriously burly out there - hopefully it eases off for tomorrows session. Â Some other folks with a little black car were out yesterday as well, but were really taking their time - hope they were well dressed. Â Also I saw a bail biner on Stone Rodeo. Curious who that might have been. It should be noted that the two small angles up under the roof on Stone Rodeo might not hold a fall given what I've seen of small angles elsewhere on Beacon when checking / replacing all the pins on the columns. Didn't get to them this year, but it's on next year's list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Someone was on Jill's the other day when we did the corner. Wind is really going now but at least the sun is supposed to be out again on Sunday. Buuurrrly in the shade for sure, not so bad in the sun though. Â Pretty sure Geoff was out today, maybe he can give an update on the epic-ness? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 hopefully it eases off for tomorrows session. Â I will see you there. I will be heading out on Sunday to climb for the first time since Sadie was born. Its been a while. Hope I remember how to tie in. Â Also I saw a bail biner on Stone Rodeo. Curious who that might have been. It should be noted that the two small angles up under the roof on Stone Rodeo might not hold a fall given what I've seen of small angles elsewhere on Beacon when checking / replacing all the pins on the columns. Didn't get to them this year, but it's on next year's list. Â They should be replaced with bolts. Plain and simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 18, 2009 Share Posted January 18, 2009 Joseph said cold, very windy, but climbable on Friday. Lower pitches were better sheltered, but upper pitches of the corner were whipping. I'll be out tomorrow to finish bolting stuff, and will be packing my puffy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 (edited) hey moof, how would the new anchors do for holding a portaledge? is the wall there nice and flat? any place for backup gear to reinforce the anchor/haul? Â That ledge wouldn't be too bad to just bivy on directly (with pretty thick pads, as the ledge is a bit lumpy), but would be maxed out with 2 dudes (plush for 1, tight for 2). The anchor location is very good for hauling, as it is at the very far right end of the ledge, and relatively high, but you'll want to make sure you get your hauler as high as you can. The only backup is in the crack at your feet, takes roughly #3 camalots (#2 and #4 will likely fit in there somewhere as well). I built a backup anchor and alpine butterflied into the fixed line when I went back to the car for the bolting gear. I only had a #3 C4, #3 Max Cam, and a #3 rigid friend (~#2 camalot) to work with. As for a portaledge, it'll have to be sitting right above the ledge, so half will be overhanging the void. Probably smart to clip a #3 camalot into the one corner to keep it from tipping every time someone farts. Â I got one more bolt done today, a 3.5" monster right at the beginning of the route. Old one pulled pretty darn easy. I was thwarted in my attempt to go higher, as the hurricane force winds were making my ropes go everywhere and tie themselves in knots. So I bailed... Fixed line is still there, so hopefully it will be less windy next weekend. Â Edit: Oh yeah, the wall side is very flat, so a ledge will lay against the wall very nicely. Edited January 19, 2009 by Moof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 Good on you Moof!!! It was goddamn stout out there today and I bet even more so yesterday. It was probably the highest sustained winds I've done the Corner in. 50-60kts sustained coming up to the Tree Ledge - just turning the corner at the top of the slab was desperate. Poor Ben waited for his moment to pull the corner and got hit by a gust that ripped his hood and helmet off which then proceeded to choke him as it buffeted in the wind like a scoop. Â I normally belay standing out on the face anchored off the big block you go around as you step up to the Tree Ledge; today I could barely maintain that stance and rope handling was equally problematic. Â Up on the corner ridge notch where you first come up it was like forcing your way through a wall - rock steady 50-60kts going up and over the notch and ridge ramp with massive gusts. I normally belay sitting on the saddle notch at the top of the last rock coming up from YW, but basically got blown ass over tea kettle down towards YW before I abandoned that idea and wedged myself low in the notch below the level of the piton up there. Even there I had to brace / wedge myself in place and sit on the rope as I took it in. Â The corner ridge ramp itself was a real challenge - hell, just getting started on it was hard and I had to set like five or so pieces of pro that would hold up-and-to-the-left to keep the rope from yarding over the edge and into the void of snags below. The 'climbing' was more like a scraping crawl between 'lulls' in the gusts and 'three-points-on-the-rock' really meant something today. Â Friday we did it car-to-car in about 1:20, today it took 2:20 and Ben was moving pretty damn good following. That's the first time I've roped up for the three pitches above the Corner Tree Ledge in I can't remember when - today a belay felt real nice, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 All that, and I spasm my back getting out of my tights in the bathroom - there is no god, only demons who punish sloth and laziness.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moof Posted January 19, 2009 Share Posted January 19, 2009 One of the dudes who was coming off Dodd's Jam as I arrived Sunday was well blood splattered (hand, pats, jacket, rope). It was from a nail trimming gone horribly wrong, which then opened up mid-lead. Â Just goes to show that you're safer on the cliff than off. Â Oh yeah, also means god wants you to keep your pants on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beaconben Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 that was bloody scott, he bloodied the whole first pitch of dod's jam, which was our high point sunday. Â I have climbed at beacon in the winter wind before, but I have never had my ass kicked like that. Â how about the other folks out there sunday. did you make it up the corner. we passed another party as we stumbled out, heads hanging low. what about you kev, arent, john. Â that little moutain told me in no uncertain terms, "pack your shit, and get out of here!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 that was bloody scott, he bloodied the whole first pitch of dod's jam, which was our high point sunday.  I have climbed at beacon in the winter wind before, but I have never had my ass kicked like that.  how about the other folks out there sunday. did you make it up the corner. we passed another party as we stumbled out, heads hanging low. what about you kev, arent, john.  that little moutain told me in no uncertain terms, "pack your shit, and get out of here!" Glad you got out Ben, I felt kind of guilty for not going. On the other hand, my house was shaking most of the day when getting buffeted by the east winds and I was nice and cozy inside. Anyone up for one more jaunt mid week? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 dave - don't know who w/, but w/ somebody i wanna finish the first full fa of the new route off the ledge - probably saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 dave - don't know who w/, but w/ somebody i wanna finish the first full fa of the new route off the ledge - probably saturday I'm hoping to get out Wed, maybe Thur but the rains are supposed to be coming by then. Well have to wait and see what the weather is like come Sat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 friday's my last day to climb at the beloved beacon-wand this season, so i'll be there rain or shine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 A party of three were kind enough to let ranger Ben and I pass at the p2 anchor on the Corner yesterday. For one of them it was their first multi-pitch climb; not sure they knew what they were in for up at the top of the slab, but I do hope things went well for them either way. Â Ivan, if you have your back against the rap tree up on the ledge and are facing the rock, is the line you're talking about to the left or the right of you? If it's to the left then I'm glad you're cleaning it out and we should try for an ffa as well when it reopens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 thats the one  i'd be amazed to see it go free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Cool, it wouldn't go free with that shrub in the pod, so glad you're after it - good eyes in getting on it. Jim also gave me a belay for a shot at the one to the left of it by continuing to traverse out left past the start of your line. Don't remember much about where I was headed with that one, but recall the traversing got pretty damn interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 Anyone do the corner yesterday (Monday)? Adam and co. would love to buy you a beer in exchange for the gear they had to leave in bailing from the Tree Ledge (see the lost and found forum thread)... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 what about you kev, arent, john. Â Â We all went to ozone instead. More trees to cut the wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 That was a wise choice, there was no escaping it anywhere at Beacon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted January 20, 2009 Share Posted January 20, 2009 dave - don't know who w/, but w/ somebody i wanna finish the first full fa of the new route off the ledge - probably saturday  Free? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted January 20, 2009 Author Share Posted January 20, 2009 dave - don't know who w/, but w/ somebody i wanna finish the first full fa of the new route off the ledge - probably saturday  Free? no - it's probably a .12ish route like the other ledge routes and not remotely in my neighborhood - i'll belay you if you wanna give it a go though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 dave - don't know who w/, but w/ somebody i wanna finish the first full fa of the new route off the ledge - probably saturday  Free? no - it's probably a .12ish route like the other ledge routes and not remotely in my neighborhood - i'll belay you if you wanna give it a go though Kevbone doesn't waste his time on those easy routes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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