ivan Posted August 28, 2008 Posted August 28, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - Da Fly'n Dutchman Date: 8/27/2008 Trip Report: the third times the charm - went up the 1st pitch for the first time last fall w/ oleg, who led the first pitch off the couch and fell repeatedly at the crux - i didn't have the gear or the stones for the upper pitch then and bailed after french-fuck'n'up the first 10 feet of it went back later in the fall and led the variant first pitch (psychic wounds?), but despite having more gear, i still didn't have etriers, which it became clear i was gonna need today, i returned to the scene of the crime - mike led the first pitch, but as it was rather damp and slimey, he aided most of it - i shot up it and cleaned it, then took a bit short of 2 hours to aid the money-pitch, which is stupid thin for a stupid long time - how the hell doesn't it have more pins bashed in? at any rate, bailed over into bears in heat for a 10 foot section when i got tired of trusting my precious ballz to aid-nut after aid-nut - brought a leper but couldn't get a placement - the last half is tremendous fun and not nearly as sketch - ended up directly aiding about 90% of the pitch i reckon - sigh - maybe i'll reincarnate as a worthy free-climber? Gear Notes: aid nutz double set of nuts, small through large 3 blue to red aliens 00 metolious 1 .75 2 #1,#2 1 #3 (if you stray over to bearz-n-heat etriers (if you suck) Approach Notes: look out for the rangers, who have decided to Bring The Heat down to the base of the wall for god-know's-how-long now Quote
billcoe Posted August 28, 2008 Posted August 28, 2008 Hi Ivan, what wuz the start of the 2nd pitch like? Were the ball nutz not working there? Quote
ivan Posted August 28, 2008 Author Posted August 28, 2008 i don't have ball-nutz - off the start you have a pin practically at the same level as the anchor, then a sketchy 00 placement, a quick free move to okay feet, then 2 aid-nuts to a good pin - from there it's just plain wacky for 15-20 feet - i can't imagine free-climbing it, even though there's some stemming to be had, b/c the pro is so marginal - i haven't used ball nuts much but the one's i've seen don't look like they'd have fit - it feels very contrived NOT to step over into the sweet handcrack on bears in heat for that 20 foot section where the dutchman stays dangerously thin when you can be sinking gold and blue camelots, no? Quote
billcoe Posted August 28, 2008 Posted August 28, 2008 Never thought about it. I probably just need to do the route. Markd says Erik freed it at like 11d, that was after some 5.13 climbers had looked at it and chosen not to try and free it. I wonder if he might have worked out the moves on toprope first. Quote
geoff Posted August 28, 2008 Posted August 28, 2008 Speaking of Fly'n Dutchman, you climbing this weekend? Dave? Joseph? Anyone? Quote
denalidave Posted August 29, 2008 Posted August 29, 2008 Speaking of Fly'n Dutchman, you climbing this weekend? Dave? Joseph? Anyone? I can get out Sat, give me a jingle-jangle on the tele. Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Author Posted September 2, 2008 big stoke to denalidave and rope-gun nate for doing this route proper-style 2day! i'd have dug *seconding* it Quote
denalidave Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 big stoke to denalidave and rope-gun nate for doing this route proper-style 2day! i'd have dug *seconding* it Nate put in a hell of an effort but got thwarted at the last crux by lack of blue aliens, or lack of a 4th blue alien. I just grovelled up on second, which was a real treat. Can't imagine I'll be leading it but I'm sure Nate will fire it next time out, so long as he has the required 4 blue aliens, or similar size cams... Another Beacon super classic. Great day at the big rock! Lots of folks out today. Perfect temps and it even managed to stay dry all day long inspite of a few drops now and then. Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Author Posted September 2, 2008 that wasn't rain - that was jim spraying his prostrate-enhanced old-man piss all over you from 10 stories up Quote
pink Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 big stoke to denalidave and rope-gun nate for doing this route proper-style 2day! i'd have dug *seconding* it Nate put in a hell of an effort but got thwarted at the last crux by lack of blue aliens, or lack of a 4th blue alien. I just grovelled up on second, which was a real treat. Can't imagine I'll be leading it but I'm sure Nate will fire it next time out, so long as he has the required 4 blue aliens, or similar size cams... Another Beacon super classic. Great day at the big rock! Lots of folks out today. Perfect temps and it even managed to stay dry all day long inspite of a few drops now and then. nice job nate, that has not seen many free assents. Quote
JosephH Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Yeah, way to go, that's a stout stretch of rock. Quote
kevbone Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Author Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? labor day Quote
kevbone Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? labor day What does a holiday have to do with lack of parenting? Quote
denalidave Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? That's what crawspaces are for... Just throw the rugrats down there and put a few blocks on the door to keep em in. Actually, my folks just bought a house on the next street up from mine so I now have FREE daycare, whoo hoo, climb on! Oh yeah, guess I should go to work now and then too. Quote
ivan Posted September 2, 2008 Author Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? labor day What does a holiday have to do with lack of parenting? don't we have this conversation every couple of months? my tradition for years has been to climb on labor day to get my head straight for the first day of school the day after - and yes, i was home in time for dinner/bath/bedtime stories ("borris and bella" kicks ass!) Quote
denalidave Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Man....dont some of you have families? When do you find time to climb? labor day What does a holiday have to do with lack of parenting? Also, I do a lot of my work from home so I still get PLENTY of kid time. Usually, I need a break from the kids after trying to run my business with a 3 & 5 year old playing, yelling and squabling in the back ground all day. What better way to clear the mind than some Beacon time? I too was home in time for dinner, story time and the tuck in for beddy bye. My oldest starts kindergarten tomorrow, holy shit, time flies! Quote
billcoe Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Tell me about it DD, my youngest is off to college in 2 weeks or so. Quote
kevbone Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Tell me about it DD, my youngest is off to college in 2 weeks or so. Damn....my youngest is still in the oven. Quote
JosephH Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Tell me about it DD, my youngest is off to college in 2 weeks or so. Same here - being old rules...! Quote
billcoe Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Tell me about it DD, my youngest is off to college in 2 weeks or so. Same here - being old rules...! My shoulder hurts.... Quote
kevbone Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 My shoulders hurt just thinking about your shoulders hurting. Quote
JosephH Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Well, yeah, there is the shoulder thing. That, and after cleaning 'Takes Fists' I only had to wait one day for the 'second day after' hammering to kick in. Black and blue thighs / crotch and all my digits were like plump, bloody little sausages until I iced my hands. Definitely need to get some young guns into the column cleaning game... Quote
kevbone Posted September 2, 2008 Posted September 2, 2008 Definitely need to get some young guns into the column cleaning game... I would be there cleaning if I did not have young children Quote
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