ivan Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 Trip: Beacon Rawk - The Olde Goode Classic solos Date: 7/19/2008 Trip Report: no reason for posting this 'sides i'm drunk and captivated here at seaside w/ the grim glowing horizon outside the glass - feeling like some happy go lucky fucked up apostle w/ the house so quite and the drunks and children asleep - my morning y-day was glorious and everything that it is that words fail to communicate - out at the lot at 6 a.m. - was back home by 11, but in the scant space between did the classics alone - the corner, young warriors, cruising and the first pitch of dods - buzzards by the dozen, rising in frustration when the trains passed - half sun on the event horizon of cloudiness - if only the world could feel in those few hours the grandness i felt then, i can't imagine our globe's little troubles being so godawful - a slight breeze, the solid nubbins of young warriors top pitch, the bit where the feet let go and it's just hanging by your hands and cursing and hauling and whooping when its done - the smoke at the base of the last scramble - the tourons on the trail - the dew on the trees on the hike down to the base in rubber clogs - the sense that this all will be over very soon - i like that the slab pitch on the corner has changed - now a slight handjam adds to the reportoire of skills one can practice on route - finally, dods at the end of the day - jam after jam, and the whole thing up and back to the ground in 10 minutes! can't wait to be done w/ this beach trip in the orbit of the patriarchs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 19, 2008 Share Posted July 19, 2008 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 20, 2008 Author Share Posted July 20, 2008 forgot to mention, the best part of the day was saving the 60'some odd bucks i was planning on spending on a new blue alien when i found one some gumby had abandoned on cruising - 15 seconds and no nut tool landed a fine metollius cam in the same range! if the owner has a blue alien they'd like to swap out for this orange-spray-painted model i'd be fine to make the trade Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 booty while cordless is always a double treat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 I've running the corner mid week in the evening and a few days I've had the whole place to myself, except for the occasional train, of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 forgot to mention, the best part of the day was saving the 60'some odd bucks i was planning on spending on a new blue alien when i found one some gumby had abandoned on cruising - 15 seconds and no nut tool landed a fine metollius cam in the same range! if the owner has a blue alien they'd like to swap out for this orange-spray-painted model i'd be fine to make the trade that gumby is jon stewart, aka, snoop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 finally, dods at the end of the day - jam after jam, and the whole thing up and back to the ground in 10 minutes! You are soloing ALL of Dods Jam? That is impresive.........I dont know anyone else who solos the "whole thing". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbob Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 Wouldn't be surprised if he was doing it wearing alpine boots, (just for the training) & secretly wishing for bad weather... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted July 20, 2008 Share Posted July 20, 2008 Makes my fingers all itchy. Apostle huh? You gotta follow someone to be an apostle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 You are soloing ALL of Dods Jam? That is impresive.........I dont know anyone else who solos the "whole thing". ... and the first pitch of dods ... Kevin ____________________________________________________________________ At the risk of feeling old: be careful Ivan... love ya bra... but.......(insert cranky old finger wagging style text here) [/rant] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pink Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 i actually talked to kevbone today and he did see the first pitch part, i think he was just razzin ivan a bit, had some good things to say about the feller. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Did Dods to Big Ledge yesterday and didn't see any blood or excrement anywhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 But did you free it? Being that you dont like straight in crack climbin and all...... Not that it matters..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 But did you free it? Being that you dont like straight in crack climbin and all...... Not that it matters..... Yes, he freed it on the first try. I, however, took a fall or two on second at the very last crux... Nice lead JH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Were you trying on purpose to chop up my post? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted July 21, 2008 Author Share Posted July 21, 2008 i forgot to add the color element of the day - a whole army of boy scouts marching to the summit on the trail in harnesses and helmets looking for something to climb - the adults seemed more clueless then the kids - i don't see meself ever soloing all of dod's there kev as i've yet to be able to free the crux b/c i'm such a suckass rock climber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
denalidave Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 to chop Were you trying on up my purpose post? Who me? That was just a typo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevbone Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 i'm such a suckass rock climber Me too.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 But did you free it? Being that you dont like straight in crack climbin and all...... Not that it matters..... No, it actually bordered on casual once I got over the fact that I've never gotten it first try of the season because I'm always quite fat and out of shape - not so this year. That, and because I only do a single jam at the bottom to get started and then it's a pretty straightforward layback. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markd Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 Did Dods to Big Ledge yesterday and didn't see any blood or excrement anywhere... did you get on windwalker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JosephH Posted July 21, 2008 Share Posted July 21, 2008 No, I don't think either of us was up to that as Dave had already done Dods the night before and YW that morning. We rapped and Dave went home, I then did a roped solo lap on YW and took off myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billcoe Posted July 22, 2008 Share Posted July 22, 2008 You have the heart of a warrior and the soul of an artist. As such I imagine that life can be both extremely difficult and very rewarding for you. Don't ever change...but hang onto life, for soon it too, will cease anyway, despite all of our best layed plans and efforts. Fight for every breath you take and never relent. Never...ever.... ............for soon enough this too will sadly pass. BTW, I've never believed you to be a "suck ass" climber like you allude to yourself above....nor does anyone who knows you or knows about you. "Ivan the bold" perhaps, but never "Ivan the suck-ass". Never ever ever. I might sink to "Ivan the gifted", if it was said in a nice way after reading one of your rants perhaps:-) And now, I have a 3rd glass of wine to pursue and perchance my prose will in fact have hope to become more flowery, like an elderly woman's bathroom with the fresh scent of pine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 forgot to mention, the best part of the day was saving the 60'some odd bucks i was planning on spending on a new blue alien when i found one some gumby had abandoned on cruising - 15 seconds and no nut tool landed a fine metollius cam in the same range! if the owner has a blue alien they'd like to swap out for this orange-spray-painted model i'd be fine to make the trade Thanks for getting that for me! I'll trade a smoke! Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 4, 2008 Author Share Posted August 4, 2008 forgot to mention, the best part of the day was saving the 60'some odd bucks i was planning on spending on a new blue alien when i found one some gumby had abandoned on cruising - 15 seconds and no nut tool landed a fine metollius cam in the same range! if the owner has a blue alien they'd like to swap out for this orange-spray-painted model i'd be fine to make the trade Thanks for getting that for me! I'll trade a smoke! Stewart didn't you get real hurt last year using cams where you should be using nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stewart Posted August 8, 2008 Share Posted August 8, 2008 The nut is what caught me. apparently it was stuck. I was gonna go back and get it but someone got there first. Would love to get that piece back too. I think it was a #5 DMM. There my favorite size. Stewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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