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[TR] Dragontail - Dragons of Eden V 5.11+ A2 7/9/2008


Sol

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Just a note on the grade IV vs. grade V thing...I am not going to speculate on which it is, but I have climbed grade V climbs quicker than our time on route...and even grade VI. The bottom line is those route length grades don't mean much these days with modern speed tactics, better gear, and savvy free climbing. In my humble opinion, a bivy does not dictate a grade.

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Clint, the first pitch comes in a little more from the right side, you actually step left to a stance underneath that red looking roof. However, once at the base of the climb, it's essentially impossible to get lost. A ~5.10d stemming/lieback variation around the .12a tips corner is about 25 feet to the right of that pitch, starts from the same ledge, and ends on the same ledge. The route is really amazing, and quite an awesome feet to free, as it's definitely still dirty and grainy. Sol and Jens may have trundled the belayer slayers, but it's not as though they rehearsed all the moves or had it clean, shiny, and polished.

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