[TR] Dragontail - Dragons of Eden V 5.11+ A2 7/9/2008

[Rafael_H]

Yeah!!! Superb, both the climb and the TR, made my day. Pure joy, I want more pics/TRs like this too.

 

Happy to hear Jens is back pulling hard.

[Dirtyleaf]

F'in awesome! NICE work guys!

[dirtysloper]

Two thumbs up!

[clintcummins]

Sol,

 

Great trip report and photos - thanks for sharing!

 

Blake,

 

I think Sol's photos make the line very clear. Here are overlay versions with the line drawn in.

I left out the line of the first pitch (original topo pitch 4), since that one wasn't clear.

 

 

[DirtyHarry]

Depends on what grade V your comparing it too. It's a much longer day out than liberty crack. Backbone is 4+.

 

Lib Crack is III+ these days. I think you have to bivy to call it Grade V. Regardless, very stout work. Cheers!!!

[JensHolsten]

Just a note on the grade IV vs. grade V thing...I am not going to speculate on which it is, but I have climbed grade V climbs quicker than our time on route...and even grade VI. The bottom line is those route length grades don't mean much these days with modern speed tactics, better gear, and savvy free climbing. In my humble opinion, a bivy does not dictate a grade.

[Sol]

you nailed it clint. thanks!

[AJScott]

hell yea guys! nice work! i need to start climbing again. this is some good inspiration! thanks for the good read and pix.

[clintcummins]

Somehow I deleted the overlay photos I posted earlier. Here they are again. Looking forward to the full FFA trip report!

 

(line of first pitch left out, because I wasn't sure where it went)

 

[Blake]

Clint, the first pitch comes in a little more from the right side, you actually step left to a stance underneath that red looking roof. However, once at the base of the climb, it's essentially impossible to get lost. A ~5.10d stemming/lieback variation around the .12a tips corner is about 25 feet to the right of that pitch, starts from the same ledge, and ends on the same ledge. The route is really amazing, and quite an awesome feet to free, as it's definitely still dirty and grainy. Sol and Jens may have trundled the belayer slayers, but it's not as though they rehearsed all the moves or had it clean, shiny, and polished.