Your First Alpine Ice Climb(s)

[Braydon]

A friend and I are thinking about trying a few alpine ice routes this summer and wanted to know what your first ice climb was and if it was a good choice or not.

 

Thanks again

[mattp]

Mount Stanley, near Radium Hot Springs, BC., was my first alpine ice climb. It was in great condition, all good solid ice, and fantastic. I'd recommend looking in Canada for alpine ice, tough you might find a short pitch or two on the N. Ridge of Baker or an icy patch here or there elsewhere in the Cascades.

 

 

[Braydon]

Thanks Matt. Living in Seattle and not being able to drive yet unfortunetly makes it tough for me to get my mom to drag me up there. Anything around the cascades for a good first one? The North Ridge of Baker seems a little beefy for a first ice climb. Is this right? What about the North Face of Shuksan?

[Alex]

N Ridge of Baker is probably about it. Perhaps NE Face of Redoubt. CW used to call NF Maude alpine ice but I think it gets just too melted out these days.

 

If you want August alpine ice, gotta go to the Rockies.

[Alpinfox]

I'd recommend getting a wee bit of mellow (

 

Anyway, here are some routes that sometimes/usually have alpine ice in the Cascades:

NE face of The Tooth

NF Chair Peak

Stuart Glacier coulior

Ice Cliff Glacier

Dragontail - Triple Couliors

Mt. Adams - Adams Glacier

NF Maude

NF Shuksan

NR Baker

Southside Hood. Seriously! I actually placed two screws on it one time in very very late season.

 

Most of those if done early season will be snow climbs. Later season will be more ice. Late, late season could be melted out rock.

 

Don't bite off more than you can chew!

[Braydon]

Thanks guys. We have basic glacier skills and swap leads on rock (well he's learing to lead in a course right now). Other than ice screws instead of chocks/cams are equalizing ice anchors the same? We have the the alpine ice section in Freedom 7 also. Should we give it a try?

[mattp]

The North Ridge of Mt. Baker is not at all difficult. The last time I did it, in late July, it was well within the ability of someone who'd spent a day practicing on seracs first.

[Braydon]

How many belayed pitches is it? Any hard snow/ice climb you could reccomend before we go? Any ice ice climbs on Stuart in late season?

[mike_m]

Last time I did the NR, it was one belayed pitch then about 300' of running belays back up and over to the crest of the ridge.

 

Another good one, late season, is the Entiat Icefall on Maude.

 

 

[mattp]

I've climbed it in July and October. Both times we belayed 2 pitches; in July it was one 75' steepish but not vertical pitch followed by another of about equal length that was at most 45 degrees and in October we found an approach pitch that was full length and maybe 40 degrees and then a near vertical but short second pitch.

[genepires]

if driving for 4 hours is too much, then forget this. But if the driving is OK, then Mt Matier in BC is a sweet little 45 degree (3 pitch or so) ice face. It reminds me of a mini mt athabasca.

It is north of squamish by about an hour or so, so you could include a day in squish if you had a three day weekend. A fine ice and cragging weekend.

 

While NR baker is not too hard, it may be a bit too much for a "first alpine ice" climb. Mainly the long sections of steep snow cramponing. A fall from most anywhere would be catastrophic. If you were comfy with long sections of 30 degree neve flat footing technique, then you would be better off. Many of the cascade ice climbs are more steep snow cramponing ventures which will do you good for a future ascent of baker NR.

 

The coleman crevasses are a great place to practice skills. Wandering around the open crevasses (staying out of the insane icefall areas) is a great way to build all the different ice techniques.

[Braydon]

Ok so I did some research and the Mazama Headwall on Adams only had one steep headwall and the rest is normal glacier travel. Has anyone done this route?

[mattp]

A fall from most anywhere would be catastrophic.

 

A note of caution that is well warranted. This is true of just about any real alpine ice climb. Be careful out there, folks!

[jordansahls]

I would vote for climbing on the Baker seracs. You can play around all you want, practice placing screws and making V-threads. Also, the ice is good, and If you want you can saddle up and take the sharp end of the rope. Its a good way to get a feel for what your in for.

[Alpinfox]

 

Another one I just remembered that might fit the bill as a good first alpine ice climb: NF of Observation Rock on Mt. Rainier.

 

I havent' done it, but it sounds perfect. No crevasse issues, low commitment, within mom's taxi service range (hahaha).

 

Here is Dave's trip report:

ALPINEDAVE IS A GOD!

[Braydon]

About what time of year do Baker's seracs start to expose ice?

[kevino]

Another one I just remembered that might fit the bill as a good first alpine ice climb: NF of Observation Rock on Mt. Rainier.

 

I havent' done it, but it sounds perfect. No crevasse issues, low commitment, within mom's taxi service range (hahaha).

 

Here is Dave's trip report:

ALPINEDAVE IS A GOD!

That sounds pretty fun for an early season ice climb.