Kevin_climber Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 Trip: Mount Hood (old climb / new report) - Black Spider - Cerebral Dream Date: 5/12/2008 Trip Report: I am writing a belated report on the Black Spider on Mount Hood for informational purposes. Wayne Wallace is aware of the climb. Years ago I met up with Steve Elder to attempt a new line on the Black Spider on the East Face of Mount Hood. We approached from Timberline and walked to the base of the face in July. There are a few crevasses at the base that need to be negotiated and a few big openings that are best avoided. The climb, as I recall, starts with typical Mt. Hood crumbled rock. With ice axes, crampons, plastic mountaineering boots, helmets, we started to scramble up the face. We decided to climb the central rib that is centered on the face. The central rib starts the lowest down and goes nearly directly up the middle of the face in a "straight" line. To the right, there is a snow chute, which has been done a couple times. To the left, there is a vertical face, which I presume has yet to be climbed. Anyway, as expected the entire face is prone to rock fall. The rock is lousy and comes off in your hand (looser than Yocum ridge which I have climbed in August, that is for another day). After scrambling up low 5th class rock for awhile, you reach 30 feet of a nice crack in a blank face. With crampons scraping and hands jammed in the crack, you climb up the 5.7 crack. The crack ends at a stance where you have a single 5.9 move with crampons to reach flatter ground for a few feet. You can bring whatever protection you want for the crack, since it is one of the few places that protection might actually hold. A belay with your as* overhanging a big drop can be found there. You lead up to the right across "chalk" which is yellow and loose (probably sulfur of some sort). Then you climb up a vertical chimney which is straightforward with crampons because the points of the crampons have good purchase in the frozen mud. A good belay can be found at the top of the chimney although wiggling the rope results in dodge ball for the 2nd on the rope. The climb continues up the rib until you can step onto the steep snow and casually climb to the summit. In all, the route is not generally recommend due to the low quality of the rock, lack of protection, among other things. I climbed Yocum Ridge the following week (August)which was considerably more straightforward in comparison. Kevin Quote
marcus Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 Kevin, where exactly on the BS face does your line travel? Are we talking about the central rib just left of Arachnophobia?? Good on you guys for tackling that daunting aspect of Hood, in summer no less - and thanks for sharing your info! Quote
Kevin_climber Posted May 13, 2008 Author Posted May 13, 2008 If Arachnophobia is the one climbed by Wayne Wallace, et al., then I am familiar with its location - Wayne once pointed it out to me (think it had a crux of thin ice on a vertical portion). Thus, you are correct that it would be the central rib to the left of Arachnophobia. Summer makes for an "interesting" time to climb Mt. Hood rock. At least it cuts down on the need for carrying excessive rock protection. Quote
wayne Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 I think I drew it in as the Elder /Russell In the Black Spider Topo in the Oregon Page Hard to believe they climbed it in summer. Hey Kevin! Heard from Steve at all lately? Quote
texplorer Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 Wow, I remember my unsuccessful 3-4 attempts on Yocum. You guys are in a different league. I remember looking up at the Black Spider thnking that it looks insane. Makes me envious I don't still live up there. Quote
ivan Posted May 13, 2008 Posted May 13, 2008 Wow, I remember my unsuccessful 3-4 attempts on Yocum. You guys are in a different league. hyper-functional retards? Quote
Kevin_climber Posted May 13, 2008 Author Posted May 13, 2008 Wayne, yes you drew it in as Elder / Russell. I have not heard from Steve for many years, though a couple years ago he mailed me some slides. Sometimes I wonder about Steve, though have not been able to find an e-mail address for him. He is a good climber with the laid back Kiwi attitude. Climbing it late July is a bit off-season, though I have no intention on repeating that route. I might go repeat your Arachnophobia in the winter time when icy (I presume you climbed it when covered with some ice that keeps the rocks from moving). The strange thing was the weekend after we climbed Yocum (August) and it was relaxing in comparison. The 1st Gendarme was a bit wild though, holding onto the ridge with your arm pits and grabbing as much mountain as you can. The ending rappel rock is very solid actually. But anyway, I think later that August Steve went back and soloed Yocum without any rapells (ridge all the way to the end) and brought a short rope though not sure if he used it. However, the best was running into Wayne on Mt. Hood and getting the number for Marcus. He's done lots of stuff around the house, very helpful. May put in a sauna, and I'll have Marcus do it all. As of late though, I've mostly been doing climbing expeditions to Alaska (3 times) and Peru (5+ times) and Argentina (once). Kevin Quote
Mountainstyle Posted July 21, 2008 Posted July 21, 2008 I want to hear about Yocum in the summer? Sounds crazy and fun. I've tried to get her two winters in a row, but encountered unfavorable weather. Going to be speding 4 days up on Hood this next week. Approaching from cloud cap, moving up cathedral ridge, camping at the base of the queens chair, scouting yocum and desceding cooper spur. Should be a good time. Anybody been up there recently? I live in Tacoma, but I've heard visability is pretty bad with all the smoke for the CA wildfires? Quote
billbob Posted July 25, 2008 Posted July 25, 2008 Descending Cooper Spur this weekend ??? Check the recent pics here and be sure to post a TR if you survive. Quote
Mountainstyle Posted July 26, 2008 Posted July 26, 2008 We survived. Words to the wise, Cathedral Ridge (like Oregon High says) is best climbed when covered in snow. Lot's of choss. Definitely knew I was in the cascades. Everything is open on the N. side. Didn't see anyone for four days. Left from Cloud Cap on Tuesday. The first challenge was crossing the Elliot drainage. There was massive flood damage this winter. Someone had fixed ropes on either side of the crossing, but it was still hairy. I'll try and post some pics tomorrow. All and all it was a good four days in the mountains. Quote
JBo6 Posted July 27, 2008 Posted July 27, 2008 There is additional damage in the Elliot this year piled on what happened two winters ago? Last year in order to get around it, we hiked up, and crossed at the base of the glacier. Quote
Mountainstyle Posted July 28, 2008 Posted July 28, 2008 Has anyone heard anymore about the climber that was killed on Hood this weekend? 55 year old man from Eugene, sad. Link: http://www.katu.com/news/local/25982069.html Things were definitely moving around up there this week. I heard he was descending cooper spur. Quote
dougd Posted July 29, 2008 Posted July 29, 2008 Local news tonight had the guy getting hit in the head by a mellon size rock and tumbling onto the elliot a thousand feet below... His 20 yr old kid was with him when it happened... d Quote
Mountainstyle Posted July 29, 2008 Posted July 29, 2008 That's really terrible. I was out on the N side tues-Fri and didn't see another soul until we crossed the elliot drainage, and we saw people hiking on the moraine. It's definitely a dangerous time of year to be climbing, I am very sorry for his family and son. The only bit of hope in it all, he was out in the mountains doing something he loved. RIP Quote
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