Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
spotly

Hauling a second rope

Recommended Posts

I haven't done a route yet that was full of chimneys and off-widths which also required a double rope rap. So I'm curious about the mechanics of hauling up the extra rope and water we'll need for the Durrance route on Devils Tower. We've decided to bring an 8mm for the second line and will tie it to a 9.7 for the raps. I was thinking it'd be easier to haul it up on lead rather than have the second struggle through the large cracks with it in their pack. Or maybe it's not really that big an issue on this route? Any thoughts? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I thought the Durrance route was currently closed. You should definitely check that out before going there. The main pillar shifted and they've been worried it's going to eventually fall over.

 

We did it a few years ago though and it was fun, not the best route in the world but something to do for the location and the feature. We had a team of three though so the second trailed the line that the third climbed on. There really aren't that many difficult chimneys on the pitch.

 

As for hauling a second rope there are a number of options. You could either pack up the 8mm into a small pack that you carry and make the second deal with it. If you have big chimneys and a big bag you can hang it from your belay loop below you as you climb the chimney as a way to get it out of your hair.

 

Another option would be to just lead on double lines and yet another option would be to simply have the leader trail the line with them.

 

All good options and all options you should probably try out over time to know what works for you, how much rope clustering each involves and which you'd keep using for different routes you may get on in he future.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I talked to em today and the only thing closed will be the same ole stuff for the falcon closures - Durrance will be open.

 

I'm actually liking the twin idea. I have an 8.5 and access to an 8. Never belayed twins but doesn't seem like it'd be any more difficult than a single.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd give it to your second to wear or carry or just lead with doubles or as doubles. Trailing the rope I'd be worried of getting it stuck in one of the many crevices around - the route sort of wanders a little from column to column, so that probably ads to the spice of a loose rope.

 

On a weekend, get there very early. When I was there we were spoiled from the weekday climbing and got there too late on a Saturday - 4 parties already on it... one, a party of 7. They were shuttling people up the approach pitch.

 

Hauling water? Just wear a small pack with some water and snacks if you're worried. Routes on the tower aren't that long - 4 pitches at the most, IIRC.

 

It is an amazing area, have fun!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The main pillar shifted [on the Durrance] and they've been worried it's going to eventually fall over.

Whoa, hadn't heard that one. What's the real story on that? Source?

 

As for hauling a second rope there are a number of options. You could either pack up the 8mm into a small pack that you carry and make the second deal with it. If you have big chimneys and a big bag you can hang it from your belay loop below you as you climb the chimney as a way to get it out of your hair.

Just to clarify: If your second is carrying a pack, a long enough sling--between the pack and your belay loop--will allow the pack to be out of the way and under his/her feet. However, if you're dealing with chimneys and wide cracks, and you don't really want to hear your second cussing and complaining in them with a pack on their back or with it hanging below, you as a leader with the second rope can use it to haul the pack...at least out of the chimneys and wide cracks. Two things I'd add then, if you're not going to lead on twin ropes and plan to trail the rap/second rope: Use a locking biner to attach your rap rope, and clip it preferably to an actual haul loop on the back of your harness. If you don't have a real haul loop, don't use a gear loop. You can make a temp haul loop by sliding on a small, sewn runner or tying a piece of webbing around the back of your swami.

 

I'm actually liking the twin idea. I have an 8.5 and access to an 8. Never belayed twins but doesn't seem like it'd be any more difficult than a single.

If you're twin-roping (both ropes into same biner), best to have two matching ropes: same diameter, same brand, ideally bought together for primarily that purpose.

 

Have fun on it, spotly. :tup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With an 8.5 and an 8 it'd be better to climb half-rope style (alternating clips) than twin-rope style. Especially if crossing from pillar to pillar this will offer reduced rope drag and improved traverse protection vs. either single+haulline or twin ropes in one biner. Also best protection vs. cut ropes if the scary pillar does move.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Grade II 5.7. 500 feet of climbing. 4 or 5 hrs round trip should do it. Three 150' dbl rope rappels to get off.

 

I'd see if the party behind you wants to join ropes for the rappel. Problem solved.

 

If not climb on a single and have the leader haul the lwt second rope off his haul loop. If there are any problems (I doubt there would be) the second can clear the rope as he climbs.

 

Drink up before you take off.

 

Not much more than a climb of Castle rock starting at the the bottom on Fault/Catapault. And the cracks @ DT are more fun :)

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The route is a fun one. You'll have a good time. :tup:

 

It's been a while since I was there, so I don't remember some details. We led on a single 11 and carried a 9 for the rap, but like I said it was quite some time ago. I'd agree with the 4-5 hr round trip time frame. I wouldn't carry much on the route unless you plan to signal space aliens. ;)

 

That's a new one to me about the pillar shifting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks all. Looks like we'll just climb on the 9.7 and either carry or have the leader trail the 8mm. I'll carry water to the base and we can decide on how much to take up the route based on the number of teams in the queue in front of us. Weather permitting, should be a fun trip to start of the season.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×