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Bouldering to climbing  

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  1. 1. Bouldering to climbing

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Posted

It seems like everybody boulders way harder than they climb full length routes but I know a lot of people, including myself that climb just as hard as they boulder. I can do a low 12 sport climb but then i boulder at V4/V5. When I trained and focuse harder I could do harder boulder problems for a while but I just never got much better at bouldering than i did at sport climbing. (Trad is a different story). I have friends that can sport climb at mid 5.11 and then boulder v6 wich is a huge difference. I dont know how many of you guys Sport Climb and Boulder (both seem to get burned on a lot here) but I would be interested in seeing where you guys sit in that area...

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Posted
I climb significant boulders

Beacon%20Rock%20by%20Marbach%20-%20resized%20larger.jpg

 

 

Amazing picture of my "church"!

 

 

I climb roped climbs way harder than bouldering.......maybe because bouldering is practice for real climbing.

Posted

I didn't see my ideal choice: ie, "I'm a weak assed pussy either way."

 

But it's all real climbing to me. Just happy to get out. BTW, Bone, I suspect you're heading this direction as well now that you have a group of babies, ie, so busy that you feel blessed to get in an hour here or there, and even the bouldering for an hour is a quick happy finish.

Posted

You can't really compare them. That's why they have different grading systems. I don't even know what the accepted translation is. The endurance factor of route climbing only comes in on super high ball boulders. A lot of boulderers don't make it far up a sport route because they pump out on the second bolt.

 

Now quit bringing up climbing grades. They're about as accurate and meaningful as figure skating scores.

:battlecage:

 

Plus it keeps reminding me about how weak I am.

:(

Posted

exactly... when I had a caoch training me I was doing high twelve and V7's.. and now that Im weaker after winter Im doing high 11 and V3/4 it seems like Im a bit more of an endurance climber than a single power move person.. some people are opposite

Posted

most climbers i know who are psyched about both ropes and boulders have a fairly balanced relationship between the two, including myself.

most 5.12 climbers i know will climb v4 5 and 6, with an occasional v7 during bouldering season, v8 or 9 for 13 climbers, and v10 for 14.

if you have the power to pull the moves on a specific route, you'll probably rp it, given enough time. if you can't pull the moves, then obviously you'll never rp.

Posted

I find that i can do both endurance climbs and bouldery climbs, I think this is from climbing in a gym for so long.. the routes I did there were usually 60 degrees overhung and fairly long as they crossed the entire gym.

Posted
I climb significant boulders

Beacon%20Rock%20by%20Marbach%20-%20resized%20larger.jpg

 

 

Amazing picture of my "church"!

 

 

I climb roped climbs way harder than bouldering.......maybe because bouldering is practice for real climbing.

Bouldering is real climbing stupid. I don't think when Chris Sharma sends a V14 he isn't "really" climbing. Watch some vids. and read up on John Gill or Hemmingway

Posted
I think the Mandala(V12) is a little taller than 4 feet. Ever gone bouldering?

 

What a crazy dude... 4 feet! and he was soloing, hes a crazy nutcase... that must have been really exposed!

Posted
Bouldering is real climbing stupid. I don't think when Chris Sharma sends a V14 he isn't "really" climbing. Watch some vids. and read up on John Gill or Hemmingway [/quote"]

 

Hemmingway was an author no? From the pictures I've seen he looked too fat to climb.

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