Bolt at Beacon Rock

[billcoe]

Oh baby thats great! Classic JT ! I've probably been to that place 10 times at least and do not have a single pic.

 

Damn I loves me the new digital cameras!

 

Here's Joseph in 100 degree weather, sweat was dripping off of both of us, him leading and me just belaying, on the second go round after he and I had been out the previous week and he'd FA'ed "The 3rd Rail" at Beacon the summer B4. It doesn't look it, but thats one of the rare rests, it's steeper than this pic shows and the route is solid 5.10 in the upper section.

 

 

Here's the first piece. Ujahn took the pic. It would have been a bolt, but all you dudes got so cranked at him for adding one that a person could clip from Reasonable Richard and Local Access that he pulled it out. So go do it, remember that 40' up, you NEED a Crack N Up. Don't F*up or fall.

 

 

I wish there was a bolt.

 

the guilt

 

this is josephs route, wasn't everyone giving him shit for putting one in on an existing route?

 

Yes, because you could wander over and clip it from 2 other routes. So that ground fall potential was eliminated from all 3.

 

However, he pulled the bolt so feel free to ground. IMHOpinion, less folks will try a route that needs a friggan crackNup for the 1st piece way high up, and the moss will now be re-accumulating on the route.

 

 

[billcoe]

These don't really do the runout length or steepness justice. Ask Jim, he was there.

 

 

 

The moss and grass shows up pretty clear.

[kevbone]

What is your point? Should we allow him to put the bolt back?

[billcoe]

What is your point? Should we allow him to put the bolt back?

 

Everyone else got to say their piece about it.

 

Thats mine.

[kevbone]

Thanks Bill…..always love your opinion. I think the problem was the “style” in which the bolt was placed….not the bolt itself.

[billcoe]

Thanks Bill…..always love your opinion. I think the problem was the “style” in which the bolt was placed….not the bolt itself.

 

Ground up hand drilled Hilti?

[Peter_Puget]

Bill -

 

The issues at Beacon seem to be driven primarily by a desire for control and nothing else. Certainly you know this. Don't be coy come out and speak directly.

[kevbone]

More like adding a bolt to an existing line without asking the first acentionist. I could care less about hand drilling. Why would one want to hand drill if you have a power drill? That would be like riding a horse to the crag when you could drive a car.

[rbw1966]

What Peter said.

[sk]

from the spray wars to the bolt wars with out skipping a beat. Gotta love winter in the PNW

[archenemy]

Bolt everything. Spray everywhere.

[minx]

More like adding a bolt to an existing line without asking the first acentionist. I could care less about hand drilling. Why would one want to hand drill if you have a power drill? That would be like riding a horse to the crag when you could drive a car.

 

some of us would argue that the horse is preferable. some but not many

[kevbone]

If you used a horse to get to Beacon……I will see you in two days…..while the rest of us will have climbed 20 pitches…..your choice I suppose.

[pink]

Oh baby thats great! Classic JT ! I've probably been to that place 10 times at least and do not have a single pic.

 

Damn I loves me the new digital cameras!

 

Here's Joseph in 100 degree weather, sweat was dripping off of both of us, him leading and me just belaying, on the second go round after he and I had been out the previous week and he'd FA'ed "The 3rd Rail" at Beacon the summer B4. It doesn't look it, but thats one of the rare rests, it's steeper than this pic shows and the route is solid 5.10 in the upper section.

 

 

Here's the first piece. Ujahn took the pic. It would have been a bolt, but all you dudes got so cranked at him for adding one that a person could clip from Reasonable Richard and Local Access that he pulled it out. So go do it, remember that 40' up, you NEED a Crack N Up. Don't F*up or fall.

 

 

I wish there was a bolt.

 

the guilt

 

this is josephs route, wasn't everyone giving him shit for putting one in on an existing route?

 

Yes, because you could wander over and clip it from 2 other routes. So that ground fall potential was eliminated from all 3.

 

However, he pulled the bolt so feel free to ground. IMHOpinion, less folks will try a route that needs a friggan crackNup for the 1st piece way high up, and the moss will now be re-accumulating on the route.

 

 

any climber who would even bother climbing the third rail, reasonable richard and black maria would proly of have the intention of climbing:

A) Flight time 5.11c

B) Flying Circus 5.10c ®

C) Blood, Sweat and Smears 5.10c

D) True Grunt 5.11A (PG13)

E) Steppenwolf 5.10d

G) Flying Swallow 5.10d

 

in which none of these route are gimmes by any means. anybody who has intentions of doing theses route could proly pull that move unprotected with out a problem. how hard is that unprotected move anyway? so if you do put the bolt in what do we change the name of "local access only" to "make your self at home". take a vote.

 

why does jh carry all this tech gear anyway, i know he uses it on his own badass routes. why is it that his route get to be so baddo and burly using cack n ups and sliders and the existing ones get dumbed down so every jo schmo can climb them.

who's to say that the third rail hasn't been done already, who's to say i haven't already done it. i use to frequent that area and have climbed all over that slab, beacon has a history of some bad ass climbers out there and it would be nice to keep it burly in respect of the pioneers.

 

i got a project for joseph, why doesn't he go project flying swallow direct which is a 5.11a TR. it needs bolts and would make sense to throw some bolts in that one considering it's harder or of the same difficulty as the routes above. again the only reason i ever climbed on that part of was to get to the cherry routes above adn if someone can't get to those routes without the bolt well they proly have no business up on the route above.

 

when i come out next year i'll tell you what i think if you care, but i don't remember thinking bolt when i climbed in that area. seems like when you start throwing bolts

in people only do the route that have thema nd ignore the sweet lines. hell i wish five star restaurants would throw a hotdog on the menu so i can enjoy a nice atmosphere but at a low price.

 

peace, love and angst :kisss:

 

 

[pink]

More like adding a bolt to an existing line without asking the first acentionist. I could care less about hand drilling. Why would one want to hand drill if you have a power drill? That would be like riding a horse to the crag when you could drive a car.

 

some of us would argue that the horse is preferable. some but not many

 

hand drills control the number of bolts put in, your gonna think long and hard if you have to drill it by hand. remember, drills don't drill bolts people drill bolts. the other extreme is a full on ban of bolting.

[billcoe]

 

any climber who would even bother climbing the third rail, reasonable richard and black maria would proly of have the intention of climbing:

A) Flight time 5.11c

B) Flying Circus 5.10c ®

C) Blood, Sweat and Smears 5.10c

D) True Grunt 5.11A (PG13)

E) Steppenwolf 5.10d

G) Flying Swallow 5.10d

 

in which none of these route are gimmes by any means. anybody who has intentions of doing theses route could proly pull that move unprotected with out a problem. how hard is that unprotected move anyway? so if you do put the bolt in what do we change the name of "local access only" to "make your self at home". take a vote.

 

why does jh carry all this tech gear anyway, i know he uses it on his own badass routes. why is it that his route get to be so baddo and burly using cack n ups and sliders and the existing ones get dumbed down so every jo schmo can climb them.

who's to say that the third rail hasn't been done already, who's to say i haven't already done it. i use to frequent that area and have climbed all over that slab, beacon has a history of some bad ass climbers out there and it would be nice to keep it burly in respect of the pioneers.

 

i got a project for joseph, why doesn't he go project flying swallow direct which is a 5.11a TR. it needs bolts and would make sense to throw some bolts in that one considering it's harder or of the same difficulty as the routes above. again the only reason i ever climbed on that part of was to get to the cherry routes above adn if someone can't get to those routes without the bolt well they proly have no business up on the route above.

 

when i come out next year i'll tell you what i think if you care, but i don't remember thinking bolt when i climbed in that area. seems like when you start throwing bolts

in people only do the route that have thema nd ignore the sweet lines. hell i wish five star restaurants would throw a hotdog on the menu so i can enjoy a nice atmosphere but at a low price.

 

peace, love and angst :kisss:

 

 

______________________________________________________________

 

is that all ya got?

[ivan]

flying circus gets an "r"? not if you bring a #5!

 

the crux of getting to all those sweet climbs up above is def getting through the 1st slabby, craptacular pitch below - all of them terrify me more than harder rated ones up high

[pink]

that R rating is from the olsen guide before #5's i guess.

 

why, because you can't pull on any gear when you don't have it

[pink]

flying circus gets an "r"? not if you bring a #5!

 

the crux of getting to all those sweet climbs up above is def getting through the 1st slabby, craptacular pitch below - all of them terrify me more than harder rated ones up high

 

 

sounds like good training for NW alpine

[ivan]

why, because you can't pull on any gear when you don't have it

exactly! i am a boy playing at man's game...

 

i can live w/o the bolts though

[pink]

just shitin ya ivan, i'd clip it if it was there. i'd climb it if it wasn't.

[billcoe]

Bill -

 

The issues at Beacon seem to be driven primarily by a desire for control and nothing else. Certainly you know this. Don't be coy come out and speak directly.

 

I don't know if desire for control is the case, although that seems to be part of it. I think more than most places, Beacon causes peoples hearts to fall in love with something at the place. There are kindred spirits out there, and many people can intuitively feel this. I do. I know others do as well. I believe that part of the thoughts running through folks minds is the desire to be there to feel and protect that feeling, for themselves and for the spirits: as well as for other climbers in the future.

 

I did not think I was being coy Peter. This thing got hammered on this site already like a dead horse when he put the thing in. When it came up on the other thread (and it being winter and all) I pulled it over here to separate the issue from that thread. Truthfully, I'm ambivalent and hardly care either way, but tend to think folks were ripping JH a new one needlessly or at least excessively at that time. They did have a point that he didn't follow protocol for new bolts out there, but *cough* guilty*cough* some of the rest of us shouldn't be throwing stones at glass houses on that issue if you catch my drift.

 

Thats correct BTW: I believe there are definatly spirits at Beacon Rock.

[kevbone]

 

I think more than most places, Beacon causes peoples hearts to fall in love with something at the place. There are kindred spirits out there, and many people can intuitively feel this.

 

Well spoken. Beacon is my home. I love climbing there.

 

As far at that bolt goes I wish it was there too…..but JH being the purist that he is did not follow his own law when placing it. There for I believe he opened himself up as the “glass house”.

 

Also I would like to point out in JH defense. We asked him to remove it……and he did. That showed some of JH character. What to go……

 

[pup_on_the_mountain]

I'm tired of climbing in the Spray forum.