pdk Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 Anyone have any recent conditions info for Lillooet, or somewhere good to check the weather/conditions there? I'm ignorant, having never been up there before, so thanks. Also, can we do it with the 2 wheel drive car or do we need the 4x4 truck for access to the climbs. thanks for the help. Donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 donnie, Lillooet 1-2-3... *** check the various reports on this thread. *** check westcoastice.com. *** check weather at: http://www.weatheroffice.gc.ca/city/pages/bc-28_metric_e.html *** check roads at: http://www.th.gov.bc.ca/weather/interior_region.asp (2wd is almost always fine, but you'd be in trouble without chains in a snowstorm.) (drive Hwy 1, not the Duffey Lk road, when it's snowing.) *** stay at the Mile O. *** drink at the Reynolds *** eat breakfast also at the Reynolds *** buy my guide... cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share Posted January 15, 2008 Thanks Don, I appreciate you humoring me. In exchange, i just picked up your guidebook. I hope some of those royalties end up in your pocket.... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 hey donnie, looks like it'll be really good this w/e. there is plenty of ice, but there was also plenty of water. now it's gone cold again: -7C last nite in Lillooet, but -22C at the Cayoosh summit at 9am this morning (i.e. Duffey Lk road) and -15C at Carpenter Lk (i.e. Bridge River canyon). and -16C currently at Clinton (i.e. Marble Canyon/Oregon Jack). THAT'll set the area up! thanks for your contribution to getting my kids thru college. now if ice climbing guides just sold in the tens of thousands instead of in the dozens, i'd be sailin' fine! cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted January 15, 2008 Share Posted January 15, 2008 hear hear! "Tens of thousands"...I'd still only make like 5$... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Climbed: 1/15 - Marble, ICY BC and Deeping wall, both are pretty fat, but top pitch of Icy BC doesn't look ready yet. 1/16- Carlsberg - Sweet 1/17- Synchronicity - Ice was good, a bit rotten, tough to get good screws but the sticks were bomber. The approach is hard now, you can follow our crappy posthole trail, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's cold here tonight! Cheers from the Mile-0, they have free wireless now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.12Dreamer Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 Climbed: 1/17- Synchronicity - Ice was good, a bit rotten, tough to get good screws but the sticks were bomber. The approach is hard now, you can follow our crappy posthole trail, but I wouldn't recommend it. Dang, that's what I call fresh beta--it's not even Thursday and you've already climbed it and reported on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 oops, well you know how it goes with time and dates on a road trip... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5.12Dreamer Posted January 17, 2008 Share Posted January 17, 2008 No doubt, Lambone. Sorry about the smart aleck comment, just couldn't resist as I was hoping to see a report on Synchro anyway. Did you look at wading the river? Two weeks ago when we saw the log gone we thought that might be preferrable to the long traverse across the breakable crust. Although I haven't done it, I'm sure I've done far worse so I agree with whomever wrote that the traverse is not a big deal--in normal conditions; with the hard crust and the boulder field it could suck enough to just wade the river, should it not be too deep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 I wadded the river once to get to Synco, about 200 yds west of the approach gully the river widens out and it's doable. The current was stronger then we thought it was going to be and it was actually quite scary. About waist deep in the middle. Plus I was cold all day after that... So, I'd probly walk the river again rather then ford it. The ice on Syncro is fat, 1st pitch is in, but the quality is mostly poor. We did Oregon Jack today and it was nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry_McClain Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 (Sat.) 1-19-2008 We did Rambles Centre today...it's in great shape. Snowed all day, maybe 3-4 inches came down and it is still snowing, but pretty wet in town right now. It was a great 1st lead WI3 for me. We top roped the Rambles Centre Top Step WI4 and ran laps. Great Day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pdk Posted January 21, 2008 Author Share Posted January 21, 2008 Don - Thanks for the great advice. We had a fantastic trip: perfect weather, lots of ice, etc., etc. It got a little crowded over the weekend, but that just meant we got up a little earlier. I'll definitely be going back soon. And thanks to the Canucks we met at Oregon Jack on Sunday - we owe you for letting us take the first run up. Hope the rest of your trip went well. Donnie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hendershot Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 (edited) Was up there last weekend also. Thanks 5.12dreamer for the heads up on BoeAlps, saw you guys head to Rambles left on 1/19. Congrads Terry on Rambles Centre. We saw 2-3 teams there and went over to Rambles right. As we roped up for the First Step WI2, a couple Vancover locals soloed it, beating up to the cirque, no worries though. There was plenty to keep us busy so I hope you guys got over there. I was 3/4 up the dihedral pitch when the pin that held my crampons together popped off. The strap kept them from dropping. I down climbed 10 ft to my last screw and set an anchor for my partner to finish. Managed to get into town before the hardware store closed and bought the necessary bolt to replace it. Day 2 (1/20), we were the first to Icy BC. Best route i did on the trip. The 3rd tier looked deceptivly easy on the central column. Upon closer examination, we saw a bail screw on THIN ice, below a chandeliered portion. After rapping the second tier, we saw the locals who left the screw from the other day, just finish a joint after the first tier. If it calms you down, I guess, tougher guys than me. Day 3, honeyman falls was affected by the warmer temps and needed this cold weather. It was still flowing on the left. We got a pitch up the same time as a Portland couple. The pro was hard to find (thank you grivel 360). At one point I pulled a 16 cm screw while testing it. Found a good patch and set up an anchor for my partner to take over. He wasn't feeling the funk and neither was the Portland party so we called it good in anticipation of the drive home. Thanks to the bad ass Portland chick who cleaned my anchor and rapped off a pillar. Edited January 22, 2008 by Hendershot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 As we roped up for the First Step WI2, a couple Vancover locals soloed it, beating up to the cirque, no worries though. There was plenty to keep us busy so I hope you guys got over there. i'm glad you guys weren't too pissed that we passed you. was nice having you guys up there to chat with for the rest of the day. good to see you were able to fix your crampon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northvanclimber Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Here's a pic of rambles right. if you compare it to the pic in west coast ice, you can clearly see how the P-S dihedral now goes right to the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 And fat too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Climzalot Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Wow. That is by far the most ice I have seen on those routes. Hard to believe that Shreddie and Closet Secrets are anemic given the amount of ice close by. Thanks for the photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tvashtarkatena Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Thanks for the timely update. We'll be up there this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmace Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 We'll be up there this weekend. Sorry its Canadian only this weekend you guys used up all your canadian time by having waay too many americans up here over MLK.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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