La Sportiva EVO Batura,The Next Best Thing!?

[Delmarco]

Just got word of these...

On paper they seem like the perfect ice climbing boot replacement for the plastic shell/double boots without loosing thermal protection.

 

I was looking for reviews online but didn't see any.

 

Anyone use these yet? or planning to get them?

 

 

You can read more about these boots at this website.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 16, 2008 by porter

[zeroforhire]

wow... i am in love

[genepires]

while definately a nice looking boot, it looks like it will have the same problem as those big everest type boots with the built in gaiters. what happens when you trash the gaiters with your crampons? while being less bulky than ultra warm boots so maybe good footwork will be less a problem. would hate to see such expensive boots trashed.

[Kraken]

It would be nice if the gaiters were easily replaceable. That would mean they would have to be removable. Not for use but for easy replacement.

 

In trying them on though, they thought of that crampon problem and the last on the inner part of the boot is pretty damn thick, almost a kevlar type material.

 

It will be interesting to see how they work. I would probably still opt to wear a gaiter over them just for that very reason of crampons though.

[Delmarco]

I would probably still opt to wear a gaiter over them just for that very reason of crampons though.

 

yeah. I was thinking along the same line.

 

BTW, I read somewhere that this is a six layer boot. So that, in addition to that "teflon" inners you speak of, may seem promising in terms of durabiliy.

 

[mike1]

Interesting looking boot. I'm heading to Portland today to search out my new boots, maybe I'll run into a pair of these and check ‘em out..

 

That zipper looks different, waterproof I assume.

 

My only hitch is that I'm sure I would trash the gaiters so it would be nice if it were removable. Kinda like getting the Nepal and just using my gaiters... hmmmm...

[Robert Howell]

I just picked up a pair in 43.5. I will be trying them out within the next few weeks on Hood or Jeff... whenever I get the opportunity really.

[Robert Howell]

Mikester, I have a second pair available for you to try on, depending on your shoe size, if you make your way to Eugene.

[mike1]

45? Though I don't see myself heading south in the near future.

Thanks though.

So far I've hit OMC, The Mountain Shop and Climb Max and none of them are carrying anything above the Glacier by La Sportiva. Two more shops today and I may be ordering boots. I hate that prospect...

PS, where did you get them?

Edited December 15, 2007 by Mikester

[Davis]

I was in the Dolomites this year and visited the La Sportiva factory/store and saw these boots--they were very well made, a little lighter than the Evo's and supposedly a little warmer with a bit more ankle flex. I definitely considered getting them since I was in the market to replace my older Nepal Extremes. My only problem with them is the whole zipper concept. Every now and then I have to readjust the lace tension in my boots and I did not want to have to hassle with the zipper. Also, especially on multi day stuff, I don't want snow/ice getting trapped in between the gator and boot. I also worry about using the zipper in the really cold, especially with ice on it and trying to get it to zip back up. That said, I could see why people would want this boot if they don't mind dealing with these features--I just like the simpler the better approach when the temperatures fall.

 

The fit, to me, was closer to the Trango last. I ended up with another pair of Nepal's, although the Evo this time. My decision sacrificed weight/warmth for durability and ease in this case. If you don't mind the zipper, I would consider this boot as a top choice.

[daler]

I wore these boots today in Vail- Low temp of -9f and high of 4f back at the car in the sun. My feet were plenty warm all day- I was working so I was not moving a ton and had no problems! They are lighter than the nepal evo and climb every bit a good or better.

 

Vail is a bit thin for this time of year but Designator is in!

 

Cheers,

 

Dale

[reddirt]

For those who have used this boot, did they feel like Nepal's or Trango's size-wise?

 

I just tried some a half size down from what I'd wear in Nepal's & I can't figure out if the Batura's actually run slightly, slightly big, or if I'm just getting influenced from reading this user review :

 

2007-12-31 15:27:27 La Sportiva Batura

Reviewer: from NW

Overall:4 stars Comfort:5 stars Look:1 stars

Shoe Size: Felt a half size larger than marked

Shoe Width: Felt true to width

Shoe Arch: Moderate arch support

 

More winter choices? While intended for winter and cold weather mountaineering, The Batura really looks like something a '80's rock star or Star War's Jedi Master might latch onto. Last/fit is supposed to be the same as the Trango series. Felt bigger than my Trangos. A bit bigger internally than the Spantik. I went down a 1/2 size from a 46 to a 45.5 in the Batura. Still had plenty of room to add a better insole. The outer volume is way down from its big brother the Spantik as is the sole outline. The Batura is more easily compared to the Nepal top. Think of the Batura as a Fabric version of the Nepal top with a fixed Supergaitor. The actual inner boot is made of cordura like material and is flexible in every direction. More so than the Nepal more like the recent Trango Extremes. The Batura *might* well be a bit warmer than the Nepals, but it is also going to allow better circulation just by being so flexible in the ankle. They will stay drier than the Nepals which will help. Sole is rigid with a slight rocker as expected. Zipper and attached gaitor are a bit funky. Gaiter is a bit tight getting to the lock lace on the ankle hinge which you'll need to do. Bottom lace loops are all nylon fabric. Past the lock lace at the ankle there are two metal speed laces. To get in and out of the boot you have to unlock the ankle and then thread in some slack. Laces aren't intended to be removed from the last two speed laces. It is annoying. Zipper? Well it is a zipper on a mountain boot, bring the duct tape, enough said. In my size they were a full pound lighter than the Spantik about the same as a Trango a bit lighter than the Nepals. Certainly not as warm as the Spantik on a cold day in the Rockies, but then I didn't get cold feet in either boot. But the lower temps were felt in the Batura, just not uncomfortable on short term adventures. A few days out and I'd want the insurance of a warmer boot. I've owned a pair of almost every model of Sportive alpine boots. Some styles have been better than others. Sportiva is always innovative. Just wish they would be a little more practical in the execution. Light, bright cosmetics and they climb well if you don't need any ankle support. Still undecided is if this is Sportiva's best high Mtn alpine boot or just another disposable specialist tool. You'd think that would be clearer at the asking price.

 

Other shoes recommended by reviewer: Trango Extreme or the Nepal Tops

 

[Dane]

I have both new Baltura and new Nepals Evos. The Baturas are bigger for sure and more like a Trango last than the Nepal last imo. The Baltura is almost a 1/2 size bigger when comparing both boots (Batura/Nepal) in a 45. Sportiva says it is the Nepal last on the Batura...from my own use I beg to differ.

 

As someone else said Baltura is softer in the ankle and a bit warmer than the Nepals. Used the Baltura for several day trips at -30c in the Rockies with no problems and only a liner and mid weight sox.

 

They are a bitch to lace. Nepals are easier to use and for my own use, climb ice better because of the added ankle support.

 

Be a cool boot if the's ditched the zipper, added velcro and made the boot with some ankle support, three hooks above the ankle instead of two and a gaiter you could actually get to the lock lace with.

[Dane]

Couple of further comments on the Batura. Ankle is now very flexible and sole is flexing a bit as well in my size 45s. Enough so I'd wonder about rigid crampons. (suspect I am the last guy actually using a rigid crampon though) Boot has been very comfortable and is beginning to feel like a house slipper after a couple of week's use. Walking is a pleasure. Climbing hard steep ice not so much although there is no lack of ankle flexibility or warmth. I get *zero* heel lift now which is a big deal for me and my really narrow heels and big feet. Going to spend a few nights out in the Ice Fields in the coming month. That should be a good test for just how warm the Batura is and how well they (and my calves) holds up to lots of front pointing.

 

File this under the heading of "this sucks".

 

Tore the eyelets off the third new pair of Spantik inner boots. If I can't tighten the inner boot sitting at my desk, no way are they fun for climbing anything technical in becasue of the heel slop. Sportiva was willing to have Dave Page replace all the innner boot eyelets at their cost of refund me. Decided I could live without dbl boots again this winter and see what kind of feed back comes in on the outer plastic eyes and how they hold up on the Spantik.

 

Did see a guy and gal do a quick ascent of a hard new route on the left of Weeping Pillar in Spantiks with a set of heel spurs on them. So they are obviously working for some. Warmest boot I have ever had on and would love to own a pair that I could actually lace up.