Beacon 11:00 today

[112]

I am looking for someone to climb the corner with today.

 

509 301 5518

 

I am driving in right now. I am about 1 hour out. Call if interested.

 

~Ken

[ivan]

how was it ken? fucking beautiful day! luckily i get to double up both the wife and daughter's b-day, but why couldn't it have been pouring to keep my mind indoors!?

[denalidave]

It was perfect!

[ivan]

i'm happy for you (read, w/ subtle under-text - fuck you!!!)

 

watcha'll do?

[denalidave]

Just did the whole corner then Ken wanted to rap down the west side from the top to catch the sunset at "Rancho Relaxo". Had the whole rock to ourselves but the trail was packed with tourons of course.

[kevbone]

Just did the whole corner then Ken wanted to rap down the west side from the top to catch the sunset at "Rancho Relaxo". Had the whole rock to ourselves but the trail was packed with tourons of course.

 

 

How do you know about Rancho Relaxo? Did Jim give you a tour?

[ivan]

no, jim's MY boyfriend!!!

 

 

i prefer to call it the "hobo camp"

[pink_chalk]

I am looking for someone to climb the corner with today.

 

509 301 5518

 

I am driving in right now. I am about 1 hour out. Call if interested.

 

~Ken

 

Can you get out during the week?

[ivan]

not unless he quits his job 5 hrs from here!

 

actually, ken oughta win the most hardcore-devoted-to-beacon-n'-willing-to-drive-a-gazzilion-miles-regulary-ta-get-there award - he comes down just about every week and has to be doing, what, 3-400 miles roundtrip?

[denalidave]

Just did the whole corner then Ken wanted to rap down the west side from the top to catch the sunset at "Rancho Relaxo". Had the whole rock to ourselves but the trail was packed with tourons of course.

 

 

How do you know about Rancho Relaxo? Did Jim give you a tour?

NO but Jim gave Ken a tour, who then gave me the tour. He did have his lawyer call Jim's lawyer to clear all the red tape on it though so it was all good.

[kevbone]

Just did the whole corner then Ken wanted to rap down the west side from the top to catch the sunset at "Rancho Relaxo". Had the whole rock to ourselves but the trail was packed with tourons of course.

 

 

How do you know about Rancho Relaxo? Did Jim give you a tour?

NO but Jim gave Ken a tour, who then gave me the tour. He did have his lawyer call Jim's lawyer to clear all the red tape on it though so it was all good.

 

 

Cool....thanks for the lawyer....

[denalidave]

no, jim's MY boyfriend!!!

 

 

i prefer to call it the "hobo camp"

Did you get proper authorization from Jim's office?

[pink_chalk]

not unless he quits his job 5 hrs from here!

 

actually, ken oughta win the most hardcore-devoted-to-beacon-n'-willing-to-drive-a-gazzilion-miles-regulary-ta-get-there award - he comes down just about every week and has to be doing, what, 3-400 miles roundtrip?

 

I need to meet climbers who can play during the week. *hmph*

[denalidave]

I can sometimes get out mid week but it is hit & miss. Let me know if you are heading to Beacon and I may be able to swing it. I live about 5 minutes from there and want to get out whenever possible.

[JosephH]

Ken, you were right, I've been in ABQ and wasn't available or I would loved to have gotten out there.

[112]

I thought Bankers work during the week???

 

Walla Walla to Beacon is 3 hrs. It comes to about $60 round-trip and totally worth it! (Plus I use to live in the Couve)

 

Someday I hope to migrate back west about 2.5 hrs - something like White Salmon.

 

I am looking to do "something" the 22nd-24th. Ivan, you wanna go climb, so you can hear me yell again?

 

-Ken

[112]

Ken, you were right, I've been in ABQ and wasn't available or I would loved to have gotten out there.

 

Just visiting?

[112]

not unless he quits his job 5 hrs from here!

 

actually, ken oughta win the most hardcore-devoted-to-beacon-n'-willing-to-drive-a-gazzilion-miles-regulary-ta-get-there award - he comes down just about every week and has to be doing, what, 3-400 miles roundtrip?

 

And, I-84 through the 395 exchange was totally icy last night - 2 vehicles in the ditch and semi-trucks traveling at 35 mph. Only a couple vehicles with chains though. I love my studs!

[JosephH]

Ken, no, I have a client project going on down there so I'm going back and forth quite a bit. But, that does allow me to stop in LV on the way or way back and get in some climbing with Karsten and a few of the old locals.

 

 

Larry DeAngelo and Karsten Duncan high on Mt. Wilson with LV in the background.

 

 

[area51]

Now that's a rockin photo JH!! What route did you climb to get up there?

[denalidave]

Ken/Ivan - I was thinking of heading to smith around the 21st-23rd if you want to climb down there? However, so far the weather call for rain but you know how that goes... Wait & see. Beacon is always good though too.

[denalidave]

But, that does allow me to stop in LV on the way or way back and get in some climbing with Karsten and a few of the old locals.

 

 

JH - Do you happen to know Wendell in Vegas? IE - the Dean of Red Rocks.

[ivan]

i'm hoping to go do some alpine up norht then, dave

 

anyone down for beacon on sunday - looks vaguely promising...

[JosephH]

Dave, no, I don't know Wendell - I'll have to ask the folks I do know about him.

 

Area51, it was a mission to scope out a 'new' large wall high up on Mt. Wilson and the 'approach' had only recently been scouted and so we more or less scrambled and soloed our way to within four or so pitches of the summit. We had one twin rope with us and a couple of random pieces, but mostly when the going got strange one of us would solo a stretch and bring the other two up on the line.

 

The pic was taken at our high point where we needed another twin and a full rack to get up the rest of the way to walk off. Karsten was for heading back down the way we came, I wanted to try going up, and Larry wanted to go for a 'first descent' down a gulley on south half of the front face and that's what we went with in the end. We did a bunch of raps on our one twin threaded through the supertape we slung on bushes. Thank god all the bushes held and the rope was long enough with a bit of downclimbing.

 

Part way down we came across a badly-drilled, #10 hex threaded with 3/8" goldline and a steel ring so we couldn't claim a "first descent". It's still a mystery to me how we had to leave a sling on all these bushes to get down and the only sign of this person's descent from thiry-five or so years ago was the solitary hex. Man, that must have been either some stout downclimbing or some horrendous rope pulls.

 

By the time we got down we'd used every available sling including the ones Larry had all his ancient Dolt nuts threaded on. Check out his state-of-the-art gloves too...

 

[denalidave]

Dave, no, I don't know Wendell - I'll have to ask the folks I do know about him.

I'm pretty sure he is still climbing there. He is an old schooler. Have not seen him in almost 10 years but he used to be a craps dealer at Caesars. He may have retired by now though. Last time I saw him he said he was hoping to lead 5.13 by the time he turned 65, I think he was 63 at the time. Mike Ward knows him well , great climbing partner if you need one when there... One of the trad die hards that finally jumped on the bandwagon and started going to the climbing gym. After that, he got really good. Must be about 70ish now but I'm guessing he is still pulling hard.