Rope soloing devices

[G-spotter]

Dude. So will just about any self-belay device. It's for TR. Try generating that much force. I know you are old but I didn't think you were senile.

 

Yes I am not only both but fat as well. However, as I am still alive, I take that to heart as an indication that I have been smart enough to avoid the chop yet this far.

 

Drew, Rock and Ice did tests which surprisingly was able to develop up to 1300 lbs on a belayed Toprope fall. If you have any Canadian math handy, please note that the low rating on the Ushba can be exceeded by that figure.

 

Now, I've been a good sport and provided links to shit which has shown me to be correct. I have only done this to contribute to your knowledge, safety and well being. You can find this info online, it is not a secret.

 

I have children, and like you, they often choose to ignore my wisdom. I'm saying no worries there, I'm use to being relagated to the shitheap, but yet I still want you to have the info, despite the fact that you are but a lowly Canadian.

 

And a bit of an obnoxious one at that.

 

 

I'm trying to say, in my way: "you're welcome".

 

You are still confused.

 

Let me spell this out in small words, OK?

 

I agree that the Ushba Basic, Petzl Shunt etc. will cut the rope around 5 kN.

I agree, for purposes of argument that force on a belay device during a top roped fall can reach 1300lbs. Which is 5.8 kN.

 

It's important to note that this is not a totally static fall. It is because in top-roped climbing the rope is doubled through an anchor. Unless the rope is yarded tight all the time, slack can develop. On stretchier skinny ropes, there can be appreciable rope stretch as well during a toprope fall (I've seen someone fall off from 10m up and deck out while toproping Icy Bc on bell-ringer style double 8.5s tied together). All of which can result in increased force.

 

This scenario is irrelevant for the Petzl, Ushba set up to belay in solo toprope mode. In this case, the single line is fixed down the cliff and weighted at the bottom. The belay point moves up the rope with the climber - result - no slack. The belay point is fixed to the climber's waist resulting in falls being essentially motion of the center of gravity.

 

The only way to generate enough force to cut the rope using such a set up is to extend the belay device away from the body with a sling - creating the same problem as in via ferrata falls. Therefore it is best when using such a device and setup to have the device as close to the body as possible. For this reason and to prevent the connector from crossloading (common problem with HMS biners & self-belay devices) using a 3/8" or larger stock Maillon rapide is preferable to a biner.

 

That said, the Troll Rocker or this new Asap have been designed specifically to have higher breaking strength and are therefore safer devices. But Ushba, MiniTrax etc. work fine & are safe for self-belay, as I have probably hundreds of falls with no rope damage to attest to.

[billcoe]

Too many words Drew, can you repeat it in maybe a sentence or 2, in somewhat less than 100 words perhaps so I can read it ?

 

BTW, on that rope stretch thing you mention, please explain to Ujahn how he took a 15-20 footer 2 weeks ago when in fact it was because he was a FULL rope length out, a bit of wandering in the pitch, getting ready to step up again, and he was only 5 feet above one of 2 bolts on the pitch, cause I think he thought I was slackin' or yanking off and I wasn't as I generally do not pleasure myself when I'm 900 feet up.

 

The have been some notable exceptions to this of course

[billcoe]

I'm kidding Drew.

 

 

I use to use a friggan' Jumar fer Chirstskes Mr Bigglesworth, and it never cut the rope, course, being a bit of a puss, if it got hard I'd grab it and jam it tight.

 

I once was wandering by the base of a cliff looking for a belay and spotted Wayne1112 using one to TR a 5.11C and he didn't have any backup knots.

 

Course, he's not a puss either....and didn't seem to be working very hard at it either....

 

Cloves work too. But they all suck IMO.

 

Hey, dude, go get that ASAP and let me borrow it, it really looks like the schizznitz.

[crmlla2007]

From PETZL:

 

* WARNING: the rope breaks when the ASAP is used without an energy absorber (attachment to harness using OK TRIACT carabiner only).

* WARNING: in a factor 2 fall with energy absorbers (models ASAP’SORBER 20, ASAP’SORBER 40, ABSORBICA I/Y) + ASAP, the rope can break.

* With the ABSORBICA L57 + ASAP, a factor 2 fall is arrested without the rope’s sheath tearing.

 

 

----------------------------------------------

 

So be sure to get your Asap-Sorber or Absorbica:

 

http://en.petzl.com/petzl/ProFamille?Famille=31

 

Edited December 1, 2007 by crmlla2007

[wayne]

May not be too useful ,New solo page

[Sherri]

That's great, Wayne!

 

I like your insight about the essence of soloing: "you suck and nobody will climb with you."

Edited January 23, 2008 by Sherri

[JosephH]

Wayne, from the looks of it, your presentation was intended to be as much about the spirit of "going solo" as any specific aspect of accomplishing it. You've got an impressive tick list of solos that looks quite varied and representative of many different 'contexts' for the technical side of soloing.

 

If you add to your solo site you might want to consider expounding a bit on the differences you've experienced between free, rock, wall, and alpine soloing as well as between free / aid - what 'soloing' means in each. I know even from my own experience on rock it's sometimes sensible to make certain trade-offs between movement / protection / speed / etc depending on what you're doing as well as where and when you're doing it.

 

Just a thought anyway, given you do have that varied background of to know the differences...

[billcoe]

What did you decide to do?

[miladugga]

I went with the rocker, because Sherri seems so nice. However, just using the plain old gri gri was easiest, so I did that for awhile. It was all enough of a pain in the ass that eventually I tried being nicer to other people until I had enough partners to climb with.

[Bigtree]

I've been experimenting with a new Wren Soloist this season and the fact that I'm writing this is evidence that the experiment is going well, at least so far.

 

That said, Andy Kirkpatrick has some good thoughts/pearls of wisdom on solo climbing in a series of June blog posts here: http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/site/blog

 

[Jared23]

Kong Backup (sold by Yates). Used it some last season and lived. Its nice because you can also downclimb/run laps with it.

 

-J

 

 

[Sherri]

I went with the rocker, because Sherri seems so nice. However, just using the plain old gri gri was easiest, so I did that for awhile. It was all enough of a pain in the ass that eventually I tried being nicer to other people until I had enough partners to climb with.

 

Sounds like we came to the same conclusion(about finding finding real partners instead). Although I quite like the the Rocker for running laps when I'm on my own, it has been is collecting dust this year cuz so many folks have been kind enough to partner up with me.