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Posted
oh yeah sorry what were they? Like one arm lat pull, levers, etc

 

yes lots of both of those. i'd warm up pretty well, stretch etc, then do 8 reps 50% of max, 6 reps 60%, 5 reps at 70% 3 sets, 3 reps at 80% or 90% 2 sets, then back down the percentages at the same rep and set counts. as you can see, you end up doing lots of reps, but with low rep counts. got the idea from the russian powerlifters who try to maximize power but not size (they also ruled the world in comps). obviously you need to increase weight as you get stronger, which happens pretty fast (a few weeks).

 

and the exercises i did:

 

one arm lat pulls, one arm triceps extensions, bent dumb bell raises, two arm lat pulls (i always did one arms first to maximize one arm power). another i'd do is stand at the lat pull machine and with straight arms, push down the bar while standing behind the seat with one leg forward for balance. i thought this was great for core strength, and it certainly seemed to help. another was to stand sideways to the lat machine and push the bar down with one arm to the side. good for iron cross lock down power.

 

lots of weighted pull-ups and wide grip typewriters. again same reps and sets as above, but with weights to create the right reps at the right percentage of max (be careful of shoulders with these; if you get weird pain, please stop!).

 

it took a couple of weeks to really get into the swing of it with max's and rep counts and all that, but after that the improvements came pretty quick.

 

oh another awesome workout:

 

figure out your maximum pull-up rep, and take 75% of it. mine was about 22 when i started, so i took 16. you do the 75% rep count, rest 2 minutes, do it again, rest 2 minutes, do it again, for a total of 5 sets. it kicks your ass! doubtful you'll get more than 3 complete sets, but get as many as you can. twice a week, and it took me 3 weeks to get all 5. then you increase your numbers. i think my rep max went from around 22 to over 30 in a month. do them in control, not swinging and piking.

 

ah good times. fun way to spend finger injury recovery time!

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Posted

Sounds like you are doing the right stuff. I seem to get all sorts of screwy looks when I work out - I'm always balancing on this, jumping onto that, and standing one legged while lifting this. I try to do exercises that mimic my shit as closesly as possible.

 

As for gaining muscle, dude, I'm right there with you! The extra strength and boosted metabolic rate go a long way towards general health - and a fun time when you pass a mirror. In the past two years I've gone from a skinny 155-160 to a lean 175-178. I'm not too worried about gaining some weight right now because I know I'm gaining a lot of muscle mass, and when spring comes around climbing will peel off any fat I have in a heart beat.

 

As for training, have you ever tried any speed/power workouts? The literature says that athletes should varry workouts between 30% and 100% of their 1RM. When you dedicate a workout to building maximum speed and power, try lowering your weight to that 30% spot, and lift it as fast as possible. IT WORKS. You'll still kick your ass. Just make sure the exercise is appropriate - ie. explosive jump squats, NOT explosive leg press.

 

Posted

 

That'd be 146lbs divided by 65 inches = 2.25 lbs per inch...

 

you've obviously got me confused with little ben...

 

146?!?!? holyyyyyy.... where ya packing that shit?

 

btw, little ben: 106!

yeah...he's a waif...gets into trouble, he can look down and exhale really hard and float to the set of holds...

Posted (edited)
Could you possibly be suggesting that hanging from tools is good training for hanging from tools?

 

I'm on it. After Lillooet, that got added to my project list for this week. A progression of pull ups till failure, then a lock off till failure, then just hanging on as long as possible, would probably max out lats, then biceps, then grippers in that order.

 

 

I used to have two short sections of hockey sticks nailed into the rafters in my basement at my old place. I would warm up doing pullups on them but then just do sets of 30 sec hangs. My grip strenth always failed before I maxed out on pullups.

 

I have always started each ice season stronger than the one before because I have been in better rock climbing shape. Will Gadd says in his book that if you can climb any 5.10 you can follow any pure ice route after a couple days out...so know I mostly just train for climbing the rock and my ice skills go up every year as a result.

Edited by eric8
Posted

I just hung two aluminum pipes wrapped in True Value grip tape on spectra from my regular pullup bar (Thanks cracker). I do the pullups for a lat workout, then pullups on the pipes (HARD), then lock off for as long as I can, then hang for as long as I can. ASS KICKING. After that I do a session with the VICEGRIPPER, which you can purchase on my website CHOKE YOUR TOOL for three easy payments of $129.95. Actually, 15-20 reps to failure on the VICEGRIPPER gives a nice final burn.

Posted

I was doing this old school grip exercise a couple days ago:

 

I get into a squat rack and load up about 200 pounds on the bar at about a waist high level. Then I just pick up the bar with a slightly wider than shoulder width grip (back damn straight and core tight) and do standing shrugs till failure, then just hold the bar at waist level in front for as long as I can. I did two sets of this and held the bar for a little over a minute each.

 

After that weight was way too much, I did the same thing with progressively lessening weight by about 20 pounds each set until I was only holding the 45 pound bar, and nearly gagging on my own sweat and suffering.

 

 

I'm telling you guys, this DESTROYS your wrist and finger muscles. On top of that, it works your core like you wouldn't believe.

 

There, FUNCTIONAL exercise.

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