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Posted (edited)

Trip: Sphinx - Lowe

 

Date: 11/9/2007

 

Trip Report:

Elisif and I (Team Harro) had five days off together so and we both wanted to get some first season ice climbing in. Looking at conditions and talking to people it looked like the Sphinx was in fat, but other stuff in Hyalite and surrounding area was wet and still in the forming states. We decided to give it a go and see what we could scrap up.

The fist day Elisif and I drove to Cameron Montana to the start of the Sphinx. We arrived at the trailhead around 330am after stopping in Butte to pack our gear in the lighted parking lot of a gas station so we got a few small hours of sleep in the car before heading out at 630am.

We reached to helmet saddle at 930am where we met another party from Missoula that were going to attempt the Lowe Direct route, so headed for the long traverse, and the other team headed down to the base of their climb. We summated at 500pm right when the sun was going down, got back to the car around 900pm making it car to car in 14.5 hours. It was a really fun trip with super good ice!! The following pics are in order from the start to finish…

 

What gear to bring, what gear to leave???

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Rope burn from CrossFit that is going to feel nice in you ice boots...

 

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First view of the Sphinx (south face)

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Me at the Helmet saddle getting ready to head up the West ridge.

 

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Elisif heading up the West ridge.

 

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Firt views of the ice and the long traverse.

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Traverse...hmmm...

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More traverse.....

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Getting closer...

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Pitch #2IMG_2280_edited-1.jpg

 

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Elisif on Lead

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Up and Up...

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almost to the summit...

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So close to the top, oh the darkness...

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Going down

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More down..

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The rest of the decent was in the dark, pretty chill we just follow the easiest way down back to the saddle where we stashed some gear.

 

Gear Notes:

No need for any rock pro.

70m rope, a hand full of screws and start nice and early if possible... Bring you shoes for the approch and save you feet.

 

Approach Notes:

Get the Winter Dance book and you are set!!

Edited by DanielHarro
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Posted

the whole day was very Montana dry, the ice was thick, dry and took screws with ease. We used at least 1 long screw on each belay (19-21cm) plus one standard size. Oh and the trail head is at about 6,200 - 6,400 feet and we toped out at just under 10,800 feet, It was a full day...

Posted

Definitely Katie! I'll take you up on that offer :grin:, unfortunately, though able to do a mean hike at 14 weeks, Reuben has yet to master tying knots....and instead prefers just chewing on them :crazy:

 

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Any other takers?

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