[TR] Minnehaha Fall Color Bouldering - Several 9/29/2007

[spotly]

Trip: Minnehaha Fall Color Bouldering - Several

 

Date: 9/29/2007

 

Trip Report:

Went to Minne yesterday to enjoy the Fall colors and get in some bouldering. Parking lot was packed but they must have been the paint ballers and dog walkers - very few climbers out. Swung by the main wall to see if there was anyone there I knew. The red haired dude that I see in Wild Walls during the winter was there doing some insane traverse problem - Smokey Overhang Traverse (gravity defying). Wandered around taking pictures of the colors everywhere and grabbed a few bouldering problems along the way. Spent most of my time on the upper bench - there's a cool wall there that's got some high ball (for me) stuff that's fairly easy but good for the head. Worked the traverse along the wall and got all but the last 5 feet on the left - peeled at the tee pee (see pic). Chilled on the rock and enjoyed the fall colors for quite awhile till the wife called and summoned me home. Hope the pictures are inspiring

 

 

Main Wall Goodness

 

Novice Rocks Traverse Problem. Crux moves across chimney on far left - Finally got it right to left!

 

Fuc$ Arete - Below Jam Crack

 

Main Face Right - Fun Scrambling on Low 5th

 

Still can't get this problem!

 

Don Q. Face

 

Starting Moves on Don Q.

 

Secondary Face - East Coaster Traverse (Right Side)

 

Secondary Face - East Coaster Traverse (Left Side)

 

Upper Bench Bouldering

 

Upper Bench Bouldering - A favorite "High Ball" and neat traverse

 

Lots of Poison Ivy This Year

[kevbone]

Wow....that sucks

[spotly]

Yeah - the poison ivy is just everywhere this year!

[telemarker]

God I love fall! The crisp mornings, slanted light, dusting of snow in the high country, gang tags...ah yes! Favorite time of year!

[MCash]

The last cleanup effort = a fresh canvas

[spotly]

True. I think it's more complicated than that though. The last "effort" was 3 years ago and due to equipment problems, we were only able to get a few pieces of "art" removed. There was a big clean-up a few years previous to that though and much of the grafitti was removed from mostly the main climbing area.

 

The stuff you see in these pics was done mostly this year so there were quite a few years where the fresh canvas went untouched. I don't know what's different about this year. I can say that there have been FAR fewer climbers out there this year and last (many local craggers are spending time at Post Falls). Don't know if that's because of the mess at Minne or maybe even the mess results from the lack of presence?! Post Falls does have some terrific routes so maybe no relation at all.

 

Either way, the area is about as bad as I've ever seen it and the local climbers need to decide if it's worth cleaning up. One or two teams on compressors won't do much at this point. It's gonna take lots of dough for material and commercial equipment rentals/loans and lots of labor. I sent an email out looking for some ideas on how to organize this so hopefully there'll be some interest. If not, I'll fork over the time and scrub the crap off my favorite bouldering problems on the upper bench and leave it at that.

[pindude]

True. I think it's more complicated than that though. The last "effort" was 3 years ago and due to equipment problems, we were only able to get a few pieces of "art" removed. There was a big clean-up a few years previous to that though and much of the grafitti was removed from mostly the main climbing area.

 

The stuff you see in these pics was done mostly this year so there were quite a few years where the fresh canvas went untouched. I don't know what's different about this year. I can say that there have been FAR fewer climbers out there this year and last (many local craggers are spending time at Post Falls). Don't know if that's because of the mess at Minne or maybe even the mess results from the lack of presence?! Post Falls does have some terrific routes so maybe no relation at all.

 

Either way, the area is about as bad as I've ever seen it and the local climbers need to decide if it's worth cleaning up. One or two teams on compressors won't do much at this point. It's gonna take lots of dough for material and commercial equipment rentals/loans and lots of labor. I sent an email out looking for some ideas on how to organize this so hopefully there'll be some interest. If not, I'll fork over the time and scrub the crap off my favorite bouldering problems on the upper bench and leave it at that.

 

Things were way, way worse before 5 years ago. The big effort where virtually *everything* was cleaned was in 2002, and things stayed clean for quite a while after that. However, the presence of grafitti indeed attracts more. And it turns some climbers off...I agree with your general assessment but think there are less climbers in general at Minne because it's considered by many to be more of a "trad" area, and there are proportionately more gym climbers who'd rather climb at sport-oriented areas like Post Falls or Deep Creek if they're not indoors.

 

OF COURSE Minne is worth cleaning up, are you kidding?

 

Scrubbing won't work, sandblasting is where it's at and I have some contacts to do it at minimal cost, outside of getting a core team of 10 or so folks together and spending a couple days doing hard work. Based on what we did in 2002, the amount of graffiti existing now can be completely erased in two full days' worth of work. Trick is getting donations of sand, the blasting equipment, and the labor.

 

Spotly, I never got an email re. this. Obviously we need to talk--call me.

 

And yes, it does take getting PO'd for many to finally take action and deal with it. Good on you for getting the ire up.

 

--Steve

[spotly]

Steve, not sure how I missed your email on that list but it wasn't intentional. Just sent original message via PM. So far I've recieved zero interest but it's only been a day. As for scrubbing, of course not. As a last resort, I intend to scrub off as much paint as possible on a few of my favorite bouldering problems though. Naturally I'd prefer to clean up the whole crag. I'm certainly not adverse to sand blasting but the idea of pressure washing with baking soda crystal aggitants looks like something to investigate as well. It's supposed to be better on the rock but it also sounds like it would be difficult to get the water into some of the areas.

 

As for me, I'm willing to pitch in with donations and labor. Unfortunately, the email I sent hasn't generated any interest yet other than one person who thought the time would be better invested in a stake-out to tar and feather the offenders...one option I suppose. I also contacted the county parks commissioner and suggested that some of the funds generated from leasing out the park to a production company recently could be used to help with cleaning up. He wasn't interested either.

 

On a positive note, it's possible (based on the scrawlings and paint type and short time-span that most grafitti appeared) that the "artists" for most of that stuff may not be local. If that's true, the rock might stay clean for some time....hopefully.

[XXX]

gosh and they say bolting is bad!

[spotly]

Throw in a bolt to protect the scarey start up Bat Crack (direct) and there'd be un uproar. Throw on a couple gallons of paint and it takes awhile to get noticed

Edited October 2, 2007 by spotly

[Marty]

Hey now. Don't you go throwin' round that bolting word at Minne. Its a pristine nature area steeped in traditional climbing ethics. Just pretend those gunshots you hear all day are wolves howling and you'll have your own little slice of Yosemite, right here in the middle of Spokane.

 

On a serious note: That fricken sandblasting doesn't do the cliff any favors. Some of the harder stuff isn't going to exist if you guys keep blasting graffiti off it (example: east coaster traverse) every time someone paints it. And it's not "if" its "when" it gets painted again (and again, and again, etc.).

Not to mention those white patches the blasting leaves are just as big of an eyesore as the graffiti (or the sparsely placed bolts).

[pindude]

Hey now. Don't you go throwin' round that bolting word at Minne. Its a pristine nature area steeped in traditional climbing ethics. Just pretend those gunshots you hear all day are wolves howling and you'll have your own little slice of Yosemite, right here in the middle of Spokane.

 

On a serious note: That fricken sandblasting doesn't do the cliff any favors. Some of the harder stuff isn't going to exist if you guys keep blasting graffiti off it (example: east coaster traverse) every time someone paints it. And it's not "if" its "when" it gets painted again (and again, and again, etc.).

Not to mention those white patches the blasting leaves are just as big of an eyesore as the graffiti (or the sparsely placed bolts).

 

The rooster crows.

 

Got anything positive to contribute, Marty? Will you help with a cleanup? Do you really know anything about sandblasting?

 

Love ya, Steve

[Marty]

No not crowing. Just being logical. Until you hire a security guard to patrol Minne, (or something of that nature) you're just going to participate in an endless cycle of graffiti then sandblast for infinity.

My question to you is, Are the white sandblast patches more or less of an eyesore than the graffiti?

I say equal.

 

And no, I will not participate in a cleanup of Minnehaha. You couldn't handle my negativity at your happy, little, eco-buddy, Im a do-gooder, get together.

 

 

[kurthicks]

if you plan to do that cleanup some time after rope up, like the next weekend, i'll be happy to contribute.

[NYC007]

I think cleaning up before the season is more production then at the end and watch it pile up more over the winter... Marty I thought you dont climb anymore, what you doing on here??

[pu]

Gotta agree with Marty on the sandblasting. However, picking up garbage isn't quite what I would call being a tree hugger. It's as considerate as picking up your shell casings.

[NYC007]

good points on the blasting it does ultimatly do more harm to the rock than the paint. the graffiti makes me feel like I am bad in NY... Batcrack is fine, your not in ground fall potiental when run out, almost at the top. less spray more climbing!

[Marty]

Cock a doodle doo. 99% of the garbage at Minne is not climber generated. I'm not burning a Saturday to "clean" John Shield Park. What's next in this quest to make climbers into some sort of eco-saints? Will I have to pick up garbage in the ditch on roadways leading to popular cliffs in order to be worthy?

I have picked up others garbage as I passed by it. Why not do this instead of a formal clean up? What is the point of this big, organized clean up? How much garbage is really out there that we must organize an army to clean it up?

 

Some people just like to have meetings to vote on organizing organizations so they can form committees to organize meetings, and then vote on chairmen that elect board members that organize different functions that vote on committees who elect members to serve on organizations that elect committees. These are people who should shut up and climb.

 

Still climbing. Went to china bend yesterday (no garbage there cause we pick it up and it isn't in the middle of the city like the pristine wilderness environ of Minne and Dishman).

 

 

 

 

 

[drater]

When's the Sector Europa tour going down?

[spotly]

I don't want meetings nor votes or even an "ok" from others (clubs or individuals). I just wanna scrub "Fuc$" off the rock so I don't have to read it every time I run up Jam Crack. It's on my way home and I actually enjoy stopping by to run up Beacon or mess with a bouldering problem. I'd enjoy it more if the place wasn't a shit hole though. That's my motivation and I don't expect anyone else to share it nor agree with it.

[Marty]

I got an Idea. You could get some of that blue spray paint that "F*&K" is written in, spray a couple lines on the "F" to make it a "B", enclose the "u" and the "c" for two O's, then put a couple more lines on the "k" for another "B". Everybody loves Boobs, right?

 

Seriously Spotly, if you want to scrub the F*&k out of that rock I think you should. There's no holds there anyhow, and I just like to get Steve wound up anyway.

[Marty]

By the way spotly, you're website is pretty cool. You got some great photos.

[leearden]

way to take the initiative dude,

Since I have no emotional attachment to the "FUC$" underneath Jam Crack go ahead, scrub it good--- committees be damned.

 

Be advised though, the word around the crag is that donny B wrote the "FUC$" as a memento to the place where he consummated his relationship with Julie the Broadway flying J princess. Pet name or some such lovey dovey nonsense. I hear that they are very happy together.

 

that aside Marty, I found the east coaster traverse to be significantly easier and more frictiony AFTER our friendly Spokane Mounties sandblasted the s--t out of it. Although it did take me a while to relearn where to place my feet without the letters from "keytronic hom of devil wurshipers" telling me where to backstep, it definately needs to be downgraded to v7a-, your book calls it too hard, but that figures, your footwork sucks.

so, if anyone would like to form a committee to elaborate on the specific difference between v7a- and benchmark v7d/v8a, feel free to pm marty.

 

or just go over to his house to talk if over with him, his address can be found in the third stall at the broadway Flying J

Edited October 10, 2007 by leearden

[pindude]

Cock a doodle doo. 99% of the garbage at Minne is not climber generated. I'm not burning a Saturday to "clean" John Shield Park. What's next in this quest to make climbers into some sort of eco-saints? Will I have to pick up garbage in the ditch on roadways leading to popular cliffs in order to be worthy?

I have picked up others garbage as I passed by it. Why not do this instead of a formal clean up? What is the point of this big, organized clean up? How much garbage is really out there that we must organize an army to clean it up?

 

Some people just like to have meetings to vote on organizing organizations so they can form committees to organize meetings, and then vote on chairmen that elect board members that organize different functions that vote on committees who elect members to serve on organizations that elect committees. These are people who should shut up and climb.

 

Still climbing. Went to china bend yesterday (no garbage there cause we pick it up and it isn't in the middle of the city like the pristine wilderness environ of Minne and Dishman).

 

I got an Idea. You could get some of that blue spray paint that "F*&K" is written in, spray a couple lines on the "F" to make it a "B", enclose the "u" and the "c" for two O's, then put a couple more lines on the "k" for another "B". Everybody loves Boobs, right?

 

Seriously Spotly, if you want to scrub the F*&k out of that rock I think you should. There's no holds there anyhow, and I just like to get Steve wound up anyway.

 

Marty, obviously the only person getting wound up is you, but I know you love it. I nominate you for President Of All Things Climbing in the Inland NW: let me know when/where your next meeting is, so I know to avoid it. And I look forward to your boobs coming to a rock at Minnehaha soon.

 

FYI Marty, no meetings were needed to start the big clean-up five years ago. We planned while we climbed out there, made a few phone calls, and just did it. To promote awareness, ownership, and to give credit to donors, it was decided by several to bring the community and media on board to have an official "clean-up day."

 

If there's a better way to clean up the graffiti than sandblasting, I'm open to it. And whether or not you want to spray, blast, blow, or suck, cleaned up it will be.

 

Na zdravi, Steve

[drater]

way to take the initiative dude,

or just go over to his house to talk if over with him, his address can be found in the third stall at the broadway Flying J

 

I tried to get in there and get the address but some guy kept saying, "I'm your senator son, come sit on my lap" when I rattled the locked door.

 

If Marty's footwork sucks so bad, how come his 8a.nu page is so awesome?