rbw1966 Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 Just read about a near-death experience on rockclimbing.com about a fellow who almost bought the farm when he took a factor 2 fall aid soloing with a gri-gri. The DMM carabiner used to attach his gri-gri to his harness broke and he was saved by his back-up knot. The speculation is that the biner got cross-loaded and broke. I use a quicklink for attaching my gri-gri whilst aid soloing just for this reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 Pardon my ignorance, what be a 'quicklink'? Like one of them steal oval biners with the wrench screwlock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted November 14, 2002 Author Share Posted November 14, 2002 Exactly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b-rock Posted November 14, 2002 Share Posted November 14, 2002 I see, because it will be way strong enough even crossloaded, werd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 where did you find the story? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted November 15, 2002 Author Share Posted November 15, 2002 Right here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 lesson learned... 1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads... 2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped... The biner was that funky DMM biner with the plastic thing that is supposed to keep it from cross loading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 I've heard of other long falls while using a gri-gri to aid solo. The device failed to lock off properly. Wouldn't it be better to just use a clove hitch on a locking biner for the belay? [ 11-15-2002, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: ehmmic ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dumpster_Diver Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 Soloing devices are prone to failure. Including ascenders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted November 15, 2002 Author Share Posted November 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Lambone: lesson learned... 1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads... 2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped... I understand the relevancy of #2 but why #1? Are you saying that when they pull the reduce the load like a screamer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottP Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: lesson learned... 1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads... 2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped... I understand the relevancy of #2 but why #1? Are you saying that when they pull the reduce the load like a screamer? Well-placed RURPs and 'heads have been known to catch short falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genepires Posted November 15, 2002 Share Posted November 15, 2002 I thought it was always a good idea to back clean fixed body weight only gear. They won't hold your fall and then once they rip out, you have to replace them on way back up again. (which you may not have any of those if you planned on using fixed gear) Just take the fall on the last peice of good gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 I took a solo aid fall 10-15 feet onto a small RP and my gri-gri (lost on Tuesday at the Seattle VW if I might add) caught the fall perfectly. When soloing with a gri I always back it up with a clove hitch and always try to pay attention as to which way the biner is being loaded. Dr. Jay - PM me the beta on Shirly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr._jay Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 [ 11-15-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr._jay Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 well after some very recent personal experience i can certainly attest to the utility of the clove hitch method, but damn are they hard to untie when the rope is wet. and by the way, timL if you're out there, i got some shirley beta for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thinker Posted November 16, 2002 Share Posted November 16, 2002 from that thread: "the plastic bit of the Belay Master wasn’t on the locker at the time (it got nicked). .......it most likely seems that the locker became crossloaded at the factor 2 point..." I personally like the DMM Belaymaster when belaying from a belay loop. When I finally started using the belay loop, I noticed that my big BD pear-shaped biners were regularly (several times an hour) catching on the loop and being oriented in a cross-loaded position. Not a good thing. After using the Belaymaster for most of a season, I give it a thumbs up. In addition, a gri-gri has some inherent problems for soloing. A soloist is much better suited for the task IMHO. If I remember correctly, Petzl recommends that the gri-gri NOT be used for soloing. [ 11-15-2002, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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