Aid solo

[rbw1966]

Just read about a near-death experience on rockclimbing.com about a fellow who almost bought the farm when he took a factor 2 fall aid soloing with a gri-gri. The DMM carabiner used to attach his gri-gri to his harness broke and he was saved by his back-up knot. The speculation is that the biner got cross-loaded and broke.

 

I use a quicklink for attaching my gri-gri whilst aid soloing just for this reason.

[b-rock]

Pardon my ignorance, what be a 'quicklink'? Like one of them steal oval biners with the wrench screwlock?

[rbw1966]

Exactly

[b-rock]

I see, because it will be way strong enough even crossloaded, werd.

[Thinker]

where did you find the story?

[rbw1966]

Right here

[Lambone]

lesson learned...

 

1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads...

2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped...

 

The biner was that funky DMM biner with the plastic thing that is supposed to keep it from cross loading.

[chelle]

I've heard of other long falls while using a gri-gri to aid solo. The device failed to lock off properly. Wouldn't it be better to just use a clove hitch on a locking biner for the belay?

 

[ 11-15-2002, 10:00 AM: Message edited by: ehmmic ]

[Dumpster_Diver]

Soloing devices are prone to failure. Including ascenders.

[rbw1966]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Lambone:

lesson learned...

 

1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads...

2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped...

 

---

I understand the relevancy of #2 but why #1? Are you saying that when they pull the reduce the load like a screamer?

[ScottP]

quote:

---

Originally posted by rbw1966:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Lambone:

lesson learned...

 

1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads...

2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped...

 

---

I understand the relevancy of #2 but why #1? Are you saying that when they pull the reduce the load like a screamer?

---

Well-placed RURPs and 'heads have been known to catch short falls.

[genepires]

I thought it was always a good idea to back clean fixed body weight only gear. They won't hold your fall and then once they rip out, you have to replace them on way back up again. (which you may not have any of those if you planned on using fixed gear) Just take the fall on the last peice of good gear.

[TimL]

I took a solo aid fall 10-15 feet onto a small RP and my gri-gri (lost on Tuesday at the Seattle VW if I might add) caught the fall perfectly. When soloing with a gri I always back it up with a clove hitch and always try to pay attention as to which way the biner is being loaded.

 

Dr. Jay - PM me the beta on Shirly.

[dr._jay]

 

 

[ 11-15-2002, 12:04 PM: Message edited by: dr. jay ]

[dr._jay]

well after some very recent personal experience i can certainly attest to the utility of the clove hitch method, but damn are they hard to untie when the rope is wet. and by the way, timL if you're out there, i got some shirley beta for you.

[Thinker]

from that thread:

 

"the plastic bit of the Belay Master wasn’t on the locker at the time (it got nicked). .......it most likely seems that the locker became crossloaded at the factor 2 point..."

 

I personally like the DMM Belaymaster when belaying from a belay loop. When I finally started using the belay loop, I noticed that my big BD pear-shaped biners were regularly (several times an hour) catching on the loop and being oriented in a cross-loaded position. Not a good thing. After using the Belaymaster for most of a season, I give it a thumbs up.

 

In addition, a gri-gri has some inherent problems for soloing. A soloist is much better suited for the task IMHO. If I remember correctly, Petzl recommends that the gri-gri NOT be used for soloing.

 

[ 11-15-2002, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: Thinker ]