billcoe Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 interesting climbing video is probably somewhere on utube Quote
letsroll Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Where is this? Local PDX crag? I an think of one or two Quote
letsroll Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 lol. thanks for narrowing it down. Could have said "unnamed cliff" and I would have gotten it. Super fun....lol. Quote
ryland_moore Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 Not Bat caves? Loos like a mixed line on the roof with pro in the crack, no? If so good for them. Looks like a great route. Quote
Stewart Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 God, Jim must have been pressing the name of that route hard. Everytime I did a route he would want me to name it "angle of the dangle" That route is very deserving of it. I only climb 5.9 so not much dangling going on except for "deeess nuuutz!" Stewart Quote
markd Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 thanks for the link bill. two thumbs up for kelton's proud first ascent! what a sweet looking line. it's nice to see they used gear in the roof as well. you can hear jim o at the end as well. Quote
crimper Posted October 1, 2007 Posted October 1, 2007 Nice FFA on that line. We (the first wave) all knew someone would free that line through the roof, it was just a question of who and when. One question: is that two pieces of fixed gear hanging in the roof? I was there 6 weeks ago and was pretty sure it was fixed gear (cams?). Has that gear been retrieved now that the climb was finally sent? PS - if it's gear, what are those two pieces? Quote
kevbone Posted October 1, 2007 Posted October 1, 2007 Link Dustin graciously sent me this link to their new route, showing the FA of "Angle of the Dangle." Dustin and Martin have been pulling a lot of the hard new stuff out there. The leader of this line, Kelton Rappleyea, looks like he's running up it in this film. Real good video & awesome stuff, these guys have been cleaning and working for some time out there ! Side note: if you don't like seeing bolts clipped or you have an issue with bolts, don't watch it. If you go ahead and watch it and want to come piss all over the thread, here's a proactive right now This is for those of you who are still getting out and climbing and appreciate such things. I can't believe how easy the kid makes it look (anyone under 40 is a kid to me these days:-), who's old? Enjoy it, and thanks to all those guys for the continued hard work since Mark, Kev, Kevin, Crimper, Stewart and the last cleaning crew all drifted off. I will not piss on this thread but…… This was a nice “pink point”. The crux pieces he clips are natural gear (pre placed). I have so much more to say……that is not positive about this video being aired on this site…..i am going to shut up now before I……. Why Bill……why? Quote
Stewart Posted October 1, 2007 Posted October 1, 2007 Kevin, Pink point my ass! There's no such thing. That was a project. The FA has been done. Dustin and Martin put it up and somebody else got the go ahead. Very respectable in my opinion. Placing the gear is a small part of that route. In a day where people bitch about bolting this and that. They refrained from bolting. It also looks pretty heady coming out over the roof with the next bolt several feet up. If you want to go and on-sight or "redpoint" the route, go ahead, you know where it is! "Pink Point!" Bitches Please! I personally enjoyed the video and have watched it several times, including once with Jim at my house. He also enjoyed it and asked me if I could get him a copy. stewart PS I'm sorry for bitching here. If anyone wants to start a pink point thread, which would be lame, I will join them there briefly. Quote
pink Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 did somebody say pink? i bet that young whipper snapper could free that no problem placing the gear himself. that would be so proud even though i find ozone to be uninspiring. great job guy's for making that place into a sweet training ground. the dutchman brought larry and i down there aboot 15 years ago and said have at it. i went to yosemite instead. very cool out of the rain crag. Quote
Off_White Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 Nice vid, and nice job using some gear instead of all bolts. It was clear that he had his choreography down for the lower part of the route, but he did a great job of keeping it together after the roof where he hadn't prepped as well. You saw that part where he was pawing all around, this hold, that hold, no the first one again, no, over here? Its so easy to lose your shit when you get rattled that way, but he got settled down and worked through it. Still Stewart, there is too such a thing as a pink point. If it didn't make things a little easier, why would they do it? It's not dissing Kelton to point that out, but it is another step if he wants to push himself further on that route. Placing gear adds to the complexity of a route. Quote
kevbone Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 Kevin, Pink point my ass! There's no such thing. Uh.....to climb a natural gear climb with pre placed gear.....to Pink Point! I know....I have done it. Quote
Stewart Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 The bolts themselves are "pink point" What's the difference if you add a draw to it. Sure, on a "pure trad" route, maybe you need another way to discribe an ascent with fixed pro. However, I believe many of the hard "pure trad" route's were established with fixed pro or in yo-yo fashion. Just pointing out to Kevin that an FA is a FA on any hard route. Pink also pointed out that its a crag, not Big Walls of Yosemite. I'm sure the Big Walls have plenty of fixed gear on them for your own "pink-point" I understand the definition just didn't understand the context in which Kevbone was using it. Stewart Quote
pink Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 clipping a fixed piece might mean you don't have to make a 6" to 12" clip. that's alot. however, you do it how you do it and as long as you don't claim you did it in a betteer style than you did it then so what. juyst have fun. Quote
Stewart Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 climb a natural gear climb with pre placed gear.....to Pink Point! I know....I have done it. You climbed "Angle of the Dangle"? Nice Job! Just Kidding! My point is that we have all done it. And I wouldn't want anyone calling me a pink-pointer after sending a 13- route. Ask Andrew what it feels like to be called Pink all day. Wait, he probably enjoys it. And my point is..... What is it that you really don't like about it? Please answer me on another thread or email. Stewart Quote
Stewart Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 clipping a fixed piece might mean you don't have to make a 6" to 12" clip. that's alot. however, you do it how you do it and as long as you don't claim you did it in a betteer style than you did it then so what. juyst have fun. Right-On!! Quote
kevbone Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 What is it that you really don't like about it? Please answer me on another thread or email. Stewart Why do you get to respond on this thread and I don’t? Quote
Stewart Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 Why do you get to respond on this thread and I don’t? Bill Coe said he didn't want a pissing fest, just appreciation of video. Trying to keep it at that. Stewart Quote
Stewart Posted October 2, 2007 Posted October 2, 2007 I can't believe how easy the kid makes it look (anyone under 40 is a kid to me these days:-), who's old? Yeah he makes it look easy. I've watched the video a few times and I'm convinced I can do it Myself. yeah-right! Stewart Quote
crimper Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 thanks for posting the video, bill, it was nice to be inspired and see something i hope to at least try once i move back in a month or so. kev, can you please respect what bill wrote and take your comments to stewart and bill offline? although you never listen, so i don't know why i'm even bothering to ask. finally, who thinks they're qualified to write a guidebook on ozone without sitting down with or even contacting the 7-8 of us who developed 90% of this place? (i'm making this assumption since i haven't heard a word about this guidebook until i read what bill wrote) since you've already posted on this thread, according to bill, it's pretty easy to narrow it down, but maybe you'll come out of the closet on your own at this point? Quote
TrogdortheBurninator Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 Ahh, another installment of my favorite soap opera. Today's episode is just like every other episode: "Secret" crag revealed/discussed, drama ensues, Kevbone confused Quote
pink Posted October 3, 2007 Posted October 3, 2007 (edited) nothing secret about that place. there are twenty year old routes there. no offense, but in the grand scheme of things it is a marginal climbing area. that place is cool as hell as far as a portland climbing crag goes. as far as renaming the area, it has been _____ for almost two decades. Edited October 4, 2007 by pink Quote
kevbone Posted October 4, 2007 Posted October 4, 2007 take your comments to stewart and bill offline? Your funny! Quote
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