mattp Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Mark McKillop: Thanks for the information that as many as one in a hundred Leeper hangers may be bad. Do you want to help replace some of them some time? Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Mark McKillop: Thanks for the information that as many as one in a hundred Leeper hangers may be bad. That's a little snide, like a 1% failure rate on a critical item is no big deal Do you want to help replace some of them some time? Whats that have to do with anything? Quote
mattp Posted August 17, 2007 Author Posted August 17, 2007 I'm sorry you are offended by my post, Mark. I certainly said nothing any more snide than your quip: "This has been common knowledge for about 15 years." If you ever want to go back and replace bolts some time, let me know. I have spent several days up there doing bolt replacement already and most of those those three bolt belay stations on On-Line, while not an extreme safety nightmare in my view, are certainly ugly and ripe for some improvement. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 I'm sorry you are offended by my post, Mark. No Matt, I'm sorry I irritated your thin skin, I just shocked that an expert bolter like you would not be aware of Ed Leeper's well publicized recall   If you ever want to go back and replace bolts some time, let me know. Yea, yea, like I'm really interested in keeping you informed on my whereabouts  I have spent several days up there doing bolt replacement already You are a selfless individual, and deserving of canonization  Quote
mattp Posted August 17, 2007 Author Posted August 17, 2007 Mark, I'm well aware of the recall. I've been actually replacing those things for that reason - for ten years. I heave even helped replaced some bolts and hangers on a route that you initally installed at Three O'Clock Rock and I didn't take notes but had you placed Leepers or maybe SMC hangers or something? Old hardware is all over the place. I'm in favor of replacing it. Â Now: shouldn't I ship this exchange to Spray? This is getting silly. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Mark, I'm well aware of the recall. I've been actually replacing those things for that reason - for ten years. I heave even helped replaced some bolts and hangers on a route that you initally installed  Wow, don't hurt your shoulder patting yourself on the back. You're such a needy person, just buck up, shut up, and quit telling everyone how selfless you are.  at Three O'Clock Rock and I didn't take notes but had you placed Leepers or maybe SMC hangers or something? um, yea. What else was available in 1979? Pre recall? And your point is? Quote
mattp Posted August 17, 2007 Author Posted August 17, 2007 My point is that you are whining about bad bolts, and the deadly belay stations you complained about had (by your description) a 3/8" biolt and two 1/4's. You state that an entire crag is "rotting away" with bad bolts, but in fact probably half the routes there, and certainly half the ones that anybody wants to do, have new hardware. I haven't asked for any big accolades, but information about what we find when replacing old bolts is probably of interest to other posters on this board, even if you aren't interested in it. Bolts that you know are bad and which you placed remain on a route you put up at Three O'Clock Rock and you are attacking me over just what, exactly? That I have been replacing old bolts and you (apparently) have not? Â Why don't you quit your bitching and come camping next week so maybe we can finish replacing the old bolts on your old climb? There are some Leeper hangers on a route far more popular that I would replace first, but yours should probably be on "the list." We might even have some fun along the way. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Mark, I'm well aware of the recall. I don't know how dangerous those old recalled Leeper hangers are It is difficult to rectify those two statements.  I haven't asked for any big accolades But you mention it every other sentence  My point is that you are whining about bad bolts, and the anchors you complained about had (by your description) a 3/8" bolt and two 1/4's. Bolts that you know are bad and which you placed remain on a route you put up at Three O'Clock Rock. I have no idea what is on Magic Bus, because it has been retro bolted like mad. When I did it, there were three bolts total on it. And immediately after the FA, I thought it was the stupidest route in the world. I have been replacing old bolts and you (apparently) have not? That is something that you don't know  Now it is the time for you to try to get the last word. Rattling your chain is like shooting ducks on a pond. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Will you two little bitches kindly get a room? Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 It's also a little self-serving how the only part of this thread that you moved to spray is the portion pertaining to yourself. Is not Chuckles and CBS spray worthy? Quote
mattp Posted August 17, 2007 Author Posted August 17, 2007 Will you two little bitches kindly get a room? That's what I'm trying to do. And you can watch. Quote
MarkMcJizzy Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Will you two little bitches kindly get a room? Fuck off Buddy Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Will you two little bitches kindly get a room? Fuck off Buddy  No threesomes. Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 If a recalled bolt hanger hangs in the woods, and there's no one there to clip it, it seems to make a hell of a lot of noise anyway. Quote
chucK Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 Where are these Leepers on Online anyway? Â Perhaps there's one or two off to the side, or acting as a third or fourth bolt near an anchor, but I've never found a need to clip to any Leepers on Online. If they are there, they may be garbage but not they're not dangerous (an attractive nuisance at the worst). Â Quote
tvashtarkatena Posted August 17, 2007 Posted August 17, 2007 I'd guess THAT bolt hanger caused a bit of noise at the moment of failure. Quote
Off_White Posted August 21, 2007 Posted August 21, 2007 Will you two little bitches kindly get a room? Fuck off Buddy  No threesomes.  Right, because everyone wants to be the meat in the sandwich. 8D Quote
catbirdseat Posted August 22, 2007 Posted August 22, 2007 (edited) Where are these Leepers on Online anyway? Â Perhaps there's one or two off to the side, or acting as a third or fourth bolt near an anchor, but I've never found a need to clip to any Leepers on Online. If they are there, they may be garbage but not they're not dangerous (an attractive nuisance at the worst). I think the Leepers were on Offline and only a few of them. The hangers on Online are SMC. I also saw some on the third(?) pitch of Granite Jihad. Edited August 22, 2007 by catbirdseat Quote
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