ricklar Posted August 5, 2007 Share Posted August 5, 2007 Planning a climb of North Sister this coming weekend and am looking for some info on the condition of the traverse from the South Ridge and the Bowling Alley. I'd like to leave the pickets, ice axes and crampons behind if they're clear of snow. Anyone been up there recently or have a line on some current recon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted August 6, 2007 Share Posted August 6, 2007 Might see you up there. I'll post conditions promptly if we go, as we might do it friday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Please give us some beta fellas! This bitch is still on the list. Â I will say that some ice patches have lasted pretty late into the seasons on the traverse in the past. I'd be pleasantly surprised if it was bare. Â Course, most say you should do it snow-covered anyway. Â Good luck guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 It might take a bit of work but any ice patch could probably be easily tamed with some chopped steps (a longish maybe 70 cm ice axe would be good for this). Just a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricklar Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 I've done the route twice without snow and thought it was pretty doable. The main issue was rock fall from fellow climbers. Looks like I'll mix in axe and crampons and will post early next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billy Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Word on the street is that the traverse is completely snow free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 What's your source - someone who has gone up recently or people who have gone up this time of year in the past? I'd rather year from the former if you know of any individuals. Â just wonderin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted August 9, 2007 Share Posted August 9, 2007 Billy's word is usually the good word when it comes to this stuff. Â -Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crevasse Posted August 14, 2007 Share Posted August 14, 2007 Did anyone end up going up this last weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Planning on heading out Friday 3am from Pole Creek. Â Let us know if anyone will be around, or if you've been up recently. Love some beta. Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 I didnt. two months of trailwork has my foot tendons acting up and my boss banninated me from hiking on my days off when I told him my weekend plans. Soooooooo, its off to Rainier next weekend instead of sitting on the couch. Gotta get out and do something(w/o the boss's knowledge)! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricklar Posted August 15, 2007 Author Share Posted August 15, 2007 Turned around at 8800' last weekend due to high winds. Sadly, no information to share. I did speak to someone who had climbed it at the end of July and apparently the Bowling Alley and the traverse were dry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 15, 2007 Share Posted August 15, 2007 Planning on heading out Friday 3am from Pole Creek. Let us know if anyone will be around, or if you've been up recently. Love some beta.   I actually meant SATURDAY at 3am - weather permitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountainstyle Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 I went up at the end of june and things were pretty bare. Started out on early morning couloir, had a feeling I couldn't kick (it wasn't the usual climbing nerves) bailed on it. Did the more boring SE ridge, took a large-ish rock (boulder?) to the chest on descent, cracked some ribs (still was able to get on Rainier 3 weeks later. The traverse below the summit(prouty)pinnacle had snow but it was thinning and this was June. We were mostly on rocks, did chop some ice steps. I would definitely take a long ice axe. Good luck, enjoy the climb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Dinomyte if you don't get it this weekend then this winte/fall we will have to give it a-go. I have yet to do this one as well. Weather not looking so hot for a summit this weekend, but good luck. What is this trip number 4 for the year?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Heh! I only count 3. THe first was merely scouting. I brought nothing and fully intended NOT to try it! Â The second was 40 mph winds - I think you were there! Â The third, I was a bit unnerved by the guy falling, and my partner wasn't feeling it. Â Hopefully, we'll have a window Saturday morn. Â If all cooperates, and we summit, don't count on me ever going back!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 We WILL take care of bidness this w/e!!! If the weather craps on us, Jon is free to descend and come back for his 4th (5th? 12th? 127th?) attempt, but I plan on relocating my house to the SE ridge and will work my way up over the course of the next 3 months with hopes of finally gaining the summit sometime before Christmas. Â I'm not counting on this summit being one for the views, it's more so I can tear this page out of the guide book and light it on fire. Â Â Wish us luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hah! When we finish this one, there's always the headwall route! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 ... I got yer headwall right here buddy!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulO Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hey, when ya'll go up from Pole Cr this time of year what route do you take up onto the N Sister ridge? Do you go up the trail to the creek then up and through the gap between the N and Middle on the glacier and turn up onto the ridge from there or is there an easier way onto the ridge? Seems the glacier route east side is mighty busted up by this time of year. Do you find it an advantage to approach via Pole Cr rather than Obsidian TH? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_Matlock Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hey, when ya'll go up from Pole Cr this time of year what route do you take up onto the N Sister ridge? Do you go up the trail to the creek then up and through the gap between the N and Middle on the glacier and turn up onto the ridge from there or is there an easier way onto the ridge? Seems the glacier route east side is mighty busted up by this time of year. Do you find it an advantage to approach via Pole Cr rather than Obsidian TH? Â We've been attempting it (and will attempt againg tomorrow) via the SE Ridge. Seems the most direct route from any you have described. Â I've been up Obsidian many times before and Pole Cr probably saves you a good 2 miles it seems (maybe more, possibly less). The gap between Mid and North would be way out of the way; the Thayer would be sketch this time of year. For the most part, taking the SE shouldn't put you on much of any snow or ice. Â We are just going Pole Cr to the creek, then taking the camp lake trail for maybe 10-15 mins, then b-line east which eventually poops you out of the trees and in pretty good proximatey to head up the base of the ridge. That's been our MO so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountainstyle Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Pole creek, to the N side is a pretty straight forward approach, then follow the moraines around to gain the SE ridge. Just be extra-cautious of the choss up there on the SE ridge this time of the year. I pulled a large rock down on myself on descent at the end of June--broken ribs. If you ascend via the SE ridge and stick to the east side of the ridgeline, you tree out on some gendarmes about 2/3s of the way up. Good luck, I hope the wind isn't too bad for you guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hopefully, we'll have a window Saturday morn. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dinomyte Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 Hopefully, we'll have a window Saturday morn. Â Â Translation? Fat Chance? Or, I pity you for even venturing out on that choss heap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
letsroll Posted August 18, 2007 Share Posted August 18, 2007 lol I think it was "fat chance." Well I hope you tag it. Thayer Headwall looks soooo much better. Can't wait for the TR or lack of one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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