[TR] Washington Pass - N.&S. Early Winter Spires - NW Corner & SW Rib 7/10/2007

[Winter]

can't argue with that summation, you a lawyer or sumpthin?

 

I prefer self-loathing ambulance chaser.

[mattp]

The flake pitch has a fair amount of crack climbing and a few lieback sections, along with a short bit that you might climb as a body off-width. As suggested, it protects very well - as long as you bring the big gear. I thought it was a little harder than "one 5.9 move and otherwise 5.8 and below" makes it sound.

[plexus]

Work your way back up to it. The rock isn't going anywhere. Have a good weekend at the pass, jump on some easier things like Beckey on Liberty Bell and Concord Tower, assess how you did and feel and if you're up to it, get it the next day.

[Rad]

Ratings are subjective. Actual results may vary.

 

..itch...

 

I was fortunate to spend Saturday linking the W face of NEWS with the SW rib of SEWS.

 

...scratch...

 

The first sections of both routes are mildly annoying, but the upper sections make up for it.

 

itch..scratch...itch, ITCH.

 

FYI, W face NEWS can be climbed in 3.5 pitches with a 60m rope. 1 = link p1 and p2 in Nelson to a tree near a large alcove. 2 = link p3 (left corner above alcove) and p4 (wide crack to flake to undercling) in Nelson. 3 = thin '11' crack to '10 and easier' crack. 4 = traverse right (cross on a well-worn but unprotected traverse rather than a mystery bolt up in the lichen) to another crack and scramble up to the crest.

 

scratch, scratch...

 

THERE ARE TWO BLOCKS NEAR THE TOP OF THE BLACK SLAB THAT NEED TRUNDLING. One is toaster-sized, the other is TV-sized (flat screen). Your rope might run on or over them if you follow the lichen-free path everyone takes. Make sure no one is below as they will fall directly over the pitches below.

 

ITCH, ITCH!

 

The finger crack on SEWS mentioned above was the highlight of the route imho, though the Boving roofs look even better (perhaps next time). The upper pitches on this route are short. We linked the finger crack with the black slab. Alternatively, you could link the slab and the bearhug 'pitch' above.

 

SCRATCH, SCRATCH, SCRATCH!!!

 

Bring bugspray!!! Mosquitoes were bad at the base of the climb in the morning and we forgot the chemical weapons of mass deterrant at home. As always, the parking lot was mosquito nirvana and climber hell.

 

itch...

[512dude]

Here is a nice shot of the NEW Spire routes and the corner that looks much better from afar.

 

[sprocket]

The flake pitch has a fair amount of crack climbing and a few lieback sections, along with a short bit that you might climb as a body off-width. As suggested, it protects very well - as long as you bring the big gear. I thought it was a little harder than "one 5.9 move and otherwise 5.8 and below" makes it sound.

 

Hey Matt,

 

A friend and I are thinking about this route in August and are discussing gear. When you say big gear, how big and how many pieces do you think is reasonable? Both he and I are fairly conservative and as a general tend to throw in gear fairly often.

 

Thanks

[needtoclimb]

A #4 cam works great for the flake. That is what I used to protect it. For the offwidth above, if you place a lot of gear, 2 #4 and 2 #3.5 will be plenty. Chris used the #4 low and slid it up several times as he moved up.

 

Hope this helps.

[sprocket]

Cool, I think between us we have 2 - #4's and the smallest big bro. I'd heard you need as many as 2 - #5's for the offidth. We're also talking about the E. Face of Lexington so we we're thinking that between the 2 - #4's, maybe buy or borrow a #5 & #6. We don't have any #3.5's, I don't think they make them in the C4's so we may have to look into that.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Two 4s is very adequate to sew things up, you definitely dont need 3.5s, as 3s will do just fine.

[sprocket]

Thanks.

[512dude]

E Face of Lexington has a fairly new piece of wood (2x4) with a sling around it wedged in the off width and also has 2 new bolts in the chimmney. I hear that you don't need to bring a four as it won't work but a 5 just makes it.

[sprocket]

The plan my friend threw out was to spend 3 days at the pass and try to get as many routes in as reasonable. His list inlcuded NEWS NW Corner and West Face, SEWS DEB and the E. Face of Lexington. Together we have 2 each of the #3 & #4 Camalots and would probably each be willing to pick up one more big cam before then, just want to make sure we don't need more than that. Sounds like we don't. I saw the TR with the 2x4 on Lexington, good to know. If we aren't super motivated one day I was going to suggest the SW Face of SEWS, its fun and not very hard but I remember we had to essentailly climb the "Bear Hug" pitch unprotected since we didn't have big enough gear for it.

[catbirdseat]

For the bear hug pitch a #4 will fit in near the bottom. A #4.5 or a #5 C4 can be placed in the left crack further up. Only lug those two if you really think you want it, because the climbing is really pretty easy there.