[TR] Stuart - complete north ridge 7/6/2007

[Rad]

I personally promise to make fun of anyone who admits doing it.

 

As Clinton said, it all depends on the definition of "it".

 

CNR TR last year

 

Bring it on!

[John Frieh]

Karma kicked in for using two cars... that's why you two had to bivy.

[Stewart_Harbalski]

I do the car shuttle like 3 times a week. Of course only when the helicopter is grounded, and my sherpas are out of town.

[treknclime]

Nice TR/climb, gents! Thanks for sharing.

[Blake]

No snow at all on route now. #4 Camalot is still fixed in the OW section. P3 layback corner is the crux, but the jams arrive before too long. C-2-C from Cle Elum makes for a day with about 8,500' Elevation gain.

 

Did the "5.9 pitch above the gendarme" disappear? We didn't find it.

[Gary_Yngve]

Here are some photos from Friday. I had been jonesing for alpine granite for quite a while but had been too busy to partake. Thanks Blake for coming up with the idea, being a great partner, and doing the driving both nights! (I still need to learn to drive a stick.)

 

base of route

 

crux pitch follows white crack that curves left then up

 

higher on the ridge

 

just before the gendarme

 

We used their rack suggestion and thought it worked great. For p3, saving a #2 camalot for the top might be nice.

 

There was tons of flowing water near the base of the CNR. We filled up completely down there and actually had "too much" -- we actually dumped some water before hiking up Longs Pass. Though it helped we got a "late" start from the TH, which put us descending the Cascadian in the shade.

 

Blake, I think the "5.9" after the gendarme is that final headwall that has a squeeze chimney straight up, a handcrack going left that leaves you on the East Ridge about 100 vert shy of the summit, and a handcrack to the right of the chimney. Certainly not 5.9. 5.7-5.8?

[pope]

A car shuttle would be an atrocious waste of time, energy, and gas and I personally promise to make fun of anyone who admits doing it.

 

Early season, go in Mtnrs Crk and down Sherpa glacier.

 

Late season, go in Ingalls Lake and down Cascadian.

 

Simple.

 

Another way which is kind of fun is go in by Ingalls Lake and camp at the base of the West Ridge. Get up and climb the North Ridge, then down climb the West Ridge. Nice traverse and no Long's Pass to hike over, plus no carry-over. I'd advise a water pump because you probably won't find it at the camp I'm suggesting, so you'll want to load several bottles at the lake. No bugs at camp either. Come to think of it, this is my favorite way to climb the North Ridge.