For the parents!

[RuMR]

Gear for kids...decent site...

[rob]

thanks for the link

[G-spotter]

UKClimbing article on Climbing Kids - recommendations from sport medicine study for training etc.

 

Note that most of recommendations are being ignored or broken by hotshots like Ondra and Lama. Discuss?

 

Jun 26: Parents of Climbing Children Should Take Heed

by Dr. Craig P. Smith

 

 

Climbing stresses your body. If you’re an adult this isn’t so much of a problem, but if you’re an infant or adolescent, then in certain circumstance climbing can cause severe problems.

 

A recent review of the scientific literature pertaining to ‘young climbers’ has recently been published in the British Journal of Sports Science by Audry Morrison and Volker Schöffl (Br J Sports Med. 2007 May 22; [Epub ahead of print]) and it makes very interesting reading. Morrison and Schöffl define young climbers as those aged between 7-17. Their conclusions are based on a critical review of the scientific literature and some of their important conclusions and recommendations are reproduced below:

 

# Climbers aged <16 should not undertake intensive finger strength training (especially campus boarding and excessive finger training) and cannot participate in international bouldering competitions.

 

# A force producing a ligamentous tear in an adult is likely to incur more damage in a growing youngster

 

# The final pubescent growth spurt is associated with an increased risk of injuries and physeal fractures.

 

# Up to around age 12, children have a limited capacity to develop an adaptive metabolic response to specific training, but possess an accelerated ability for motor development. This suggests the emphasis of training should be on climbing an increased volume and diversity of climbing routes to improve fluency and mechanical efficiency of climbing techniques, as opposed to increasing intensity.

 

# Wearing excessively restrictive climbing shoes is not recommended in growing feet to help prevent foot injuries and deformities. Regular record keeping of street wear and climbing shoe size may be a useful strategy up to a minimum age of 15.

 

# Climbers should be educated in the importance of an appropriate diet and timing of this intake on health and performance.

 

# The age at which a climber should specialise in climbing is unknown. Knowledgeable and qualified personnel should carefully monitor training. Where training intensity is increased, it should reflect safe and efficacious exercises for a given gender and biological age, independent of the competition calendar.

 

# More research on young climbers is needed

 

Clearly, parents of climbing children should take heed of these recommendations

Edited June 26, 2007 by G-spotter

[ken4ord]

Awesome, thanks that is a great link to have. I can't wait to outfit the little one, once she is not so little.

[AlpineK]

There's some nice stuff there, but......

 

Where are the skis, bindings, and boots

 

My dad built me ski gear and had me doing some very very mellow skiing when I was 1.5 years old. Way back in the 60s

[bstach]

I'm stoked to outfit my little guy! He's only 7 weeks, though. It'll be a while yet.

[RuMR]

There's some nice stuff there, but......

 

Where are the skis, bindings, and boots

 

My dad built me ski gear and had me doing some very very mellow skiing when I was 1.5 years old. Way back in the 60s

 

those are located in the "lame" category...was the button broken??

[rmncwrtr]

Great site since I have three to outfit ASAP. Thanks RuMR.

[high_on_rock]

maybe we should all list all of the stuff our kids outgrew and see if we can trade up. Pick a month like October that is somewhat between seasons and have a trading fest.

 

Didn't someone do a "kids day" of somesort at Lworth last year? Great time for a gear swap. Man, both of mine seem to always wear the same size at the same time, so I have to reoutfit both.

 

Thoughts?

[archenemy]

UKClimbing article on Climbing Kids - recommendations from sport medicine study for training etc.

 

Note that most of recommendations are being ignored or broken by hotshots like Ondra and Lama. Discuss?

 

Jun 26: Parents of Climbing Children Should Take Heed

by Dr. Craig P. Smith

 

 

Climbing stresses your body. If you’re an adult this isn’t so much of a problem, but if you’re an infant or adolescent, then in certain circumstance climbing can cause severe problems.

 

Here's my discuss:

Who has heard of an infant climbing? Is this some French thing or what?

[archenemy]

UKClimbing article on Climbing Kids - recommendations from sport medicine study for training etc.

 

Note that most of recommendations are being ignored or broken by hotshots like Ondra and Lama. Discuss?

 

Jun 26: Parents of Climbing Children Should Take Heed

by Dr. Craig P. Smith

 

 

Climbing stresses your body. If you’re an adult this isn’t so much of a problem, but if you’re an infant or adolescent, then in certain circumstance climbing can cause severe problems.

 

A recent review of the scientific literature pertaining to ‘young climbers’ has recently been published in the British Journal of Sports Science by Audry Morrison and Volker Schöffl (Br J Sports Med. 2007 May 22; [Epub ahead of print]) and it makes very interesting reading. Morrison and Schöffl define young climbers as those aged between 7-17. Their conclusions are based on a critical review of the scientific literature and some of their important conclusions and recommendations are reproduced below:

 

# Climbers aged <16 should not undertake intensive finger strength training (especially campus boarding and excessive finger training) and cannot participate in international bouldering competitions.

 

# A force producing a ligamentous tear in an adult is likely to incur more damage in a growing youngster

 

# The final pubescent growth spurt is associated with an increased risk of injuries and physeal fractures.

 

# Up to around age 12, children have a limited capacity to develop an adaptive metabolic response to specific training, but possess an accelerated ability for motor development. This suggests the emphasis of training should be on climbing an increased volume and diversity of climbing routes to improve fluency and mechanical efficiency of climbing techniques, as opposed to increasing intensity.

 

# Wearing excessively restrictive climbing shoes is not recommended in growing feet to help prevent foot injuries and deformities. Regular record keeping of street wear and climbing shoe size may be a useful strategy up to a minimum age of 15.

 

# Climbers should be educated in the importance of an appropriate diet and timing of this intake on health and performance.

 

# The age at which a climber should specialise in climbing is unknown. Knowledgeable and qualified personnel should carefully monitor training. Where training intensity is increased, it should reflect safe and efficacious exercises for a given gender and biological age, independent of the competition calendar.

 

# More research on young climbers is needed

 

Clearly, parents of climbing children should take heed of these recommendations

[RuMR]

looks like i'm breakin' a lot o' da rulez!

[rmncwrtr]

maybe we should all list all of the stuff our kids outgrew and see if we can trade up. Pick a month like October that is somewhat between seasons and have a trading fest.

 

Didn't someone do a "kids day" of somesort at Lworth last year? Great time for a gear swap. Man, both of mine seem to always wear the same size at the same time, so I have to reoutfit both.

 

Thoughts?

 

We're just getting into climbing as a family so starting from scratch with gear, but a kids gear swap would be great as they outgrow stuff.