GM / The Country question

[Blake]

After the second pitch of GM (with the cruxy undercling and awesome knobs), what is the rating if you go right on Heart of the Country?

 

Also, how is that 3rd pitch of GM if you stay left? It began as a squeeze chimney for some super-skinny climber, or else a tough wide lieback that you'd need a #6 camalot to prevent decking. Maybe I was missing something there...

 

or maybe that funkyness is why people always go right up HOC.

[Weekend_Climberz]

It starts out 5.9, then as the crack widens it goes to a move or two of 10a, going right that is. At least, that's what the old guide says.

[mattp]

You were attempting the upper part of GM correctly. It starts out as a body squeeze (awkward 5.9), and then you stand on top of the thing to make a few facy moves up and right to a ledge at the same height as the top of that Heart of the Country crack to the right. From there, it takes off again as steep, roughly 5" crack that feels like 5.9d. It is a good practice route for the fat cracks on climbs like NW Face North Early Winter Spire or Backbone Ridge on Dragontail. If you can climb that think OK you'll find those routes easy.

[Gary_Yngve]

I've always disagreed with that guidebook notation for HoC p3. The crux to me seems like the dogleg start, where it's thin hands. Then it's bomber #2 camalots. Finally there's little bit of cupped hands/fists before reaching the ledge.

 

Blake, the third pitch starts as that thrutch. It's easiest if you can walk back (and up) till you can reach high for a hand. Once you've mantled that and want to work up and right to the wide crack that Matt describes, there's a key thumbs-up right handjam you want so you can make upward progress. I say key, because you will find it hard if you place your pro there. Rather it's better to place a TCU in the horizontal crack just to the left.

 

You can also access the top of G-M p3 by climbing the "bonus" part of HoC p3. It's 11a in the guide, but it's really one or two moves that could be easily aided.

[MCash]

Yeah, that P3 of GM is fun. I like wide cracks. The upper part protects well with #4 friends or #4 C4s.

 

BWR leading the starting squeeze (a #6 friend protects this).

 

 

The HOC pitch #3 has got to be the softest grade at Index. 10a or b on the topo, then 11a? More like 5.8 then 5.10b (on an Index scale).

[mattp]

I don't find that last move on the dogleg crack of HOC to be 5.8. It is rattly hands for one maybe one and a half moves.

[Blake]

Thanks all.

 

 

Here's the part I was wondering about

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=3841

I guess it's anywhere from MCash's 5.8 to Alpinfox's .10b

[Rad]

So did you do one of those finishes Blake?

 

HoC has pretty straightforward jams. I thought the upper part of P3 of GM, as mentioned by MattP, was harder.

 

What seems inconsistent is P2 of GM. It's way easier than all three of the sections of P3 discussed. It's like a fun Gunks 5.8.

 

BTW, can one TR the 10+/11a face route right of HoC from the ledge in the middle of HoC? That looks fun.

 

Finally, has anyone actually climbed the 10c direct start slab variation below the 5.8 pitch of GM. THAT IS HARD!

 

[MCash]

I tried that direct start but couldn't even do the moves on TR.

 

Agreed, GM pitch 3 feels harder than HOC P3 to the first ledge.

[Blake]

I did the right side finger/hand/fist crack which I would have called .10b and very fun.

 

The thing about P.2 is that it is a short pitch with one hard move, but I do think that individual move is 5.9 (pulling out of the undercling)

 

 

As for the ".10c" boulder problem slab thing, i have not done it either, and there is a dangerous block jutting out that you would land on if you fell. Happy Times!

[mattp]

That boulder start is another one of those things that I think has gotten a little harder over the years. I was at one time able to do it on a toprope, and I can't remember clearly but I think I actually bouldered it when I was younger and dumber and had it rehearsed.

[Matt_Alford]

 

 

The HOC pitch #3 has got to be the softest grade at Index. 10a or b on the topo, then 11a? More like 5.8 then 5.10b (on an Index scale).

 

I totally agree and think it is a typo in the Cumminss guide or something fell off to make the route a whole bunch easier. I would say 3 moves of 5.9 accurately describe the last short pitch of HOC