Vesper Peak North Face/West Side Question

[Layback]

Has anyone here ever done this route? I have some questions about the slab section in particular.

 

Beckey writes:

 

From the base of the N Face, climb a steep, defined buttress to the major ledge (three leads). An option is to climb the largest depression through the lower cliffs. Continue directly upward through the clean, 45-degree slab for about 3-4 leads of cracks and corners to the ridge W of the summit; on the final two leads, one is only about 50 feet from the dihedral of the Weigelt route. The slab is about 200 ft wide-there is a scarcity of protection opportunities except for horizontal cracks; some long runouts between belays. The large open book near the top is not difficult. Rating: Grade II; 5.6

 

In the bold section of Beckey's description is he talking about:

 

A) the final two pitches, which is assumingly the large open book near the top, which "is not difficult" or,

 

B) "the clean 45-degree slab for about 3-4 leads of cracks and corners"

 

If A sounds - sounds like fun. If B - sounds scary.

 

If you have done the route can you please confirm?

 

Thanks!

[Off_White]

Joe, try searching some of the trip reports in this forum, the route is relatively popular and there have been a number of TR's. I believe the entire slab is somewhat protection deficient, but it's not the hard part of the climbing either, and I haven't heard of anyone, mere mortals included, who was terrified by the route. Dry conditions are desirable though.

[Layback]

Thanks Off White. I did a search but there seems to only be beta on the Weigelt Route or the North Face route. Not the North Face West Side route. If there is anyone out there who could clarify Beckey you would be my hero. Not all Beckey descriptions, just this one. One does not want to ask too much...

Edited June 10, 2007 by Layback75

[Alex]

Joe, I've done Vesper twice. From the base of the upper slab, there actually are no real well-defined routes other than the actual corner. As to your question, he means B). The corner itself has lots of pro.

 

The first time we went up we followed a crack system 50 ft right of the corner, out on the face. After the first pitch of no pro, it was really low 5th class with ample pro the rest of the way.

 

The second time we did the corner. Its very moderate except one awkward move fairly low in the corner. No worries about pro.

[132435465768]

Honestly, i would be concerned with the lower (crux) pitches as well as getting onto the rock from the glacier. after finishing the lower part of the route the upper slab will be more of a cardio workout than a mental one. great route!

[Layback]

Thanks Alex. The first pitch of no-pro - was that also low 5th class or are we talking 5.5-5.6?

 

I appreciate your help!

[kevbone]

Did it last year. Did it in four pitchs. Super fun. Super easy. The gully is a little loose. Have fun and bring crampons.

[Alex]

The first pitch of no-pro - was that also low 5th class or are we talking 5.5-5.6?

 

Call it 5.6. Its the type of climbing that is slabby, small features, and very run out. You will want rock shoes for if you are not a strong leader. You will not want to do it wet. Otherwise, it goes fairly quickly and is straightforward.

[philfort]

There are one million TRs on the web.

[Layback]

Grassy-ass! I lead trad to 5.8 but I am not a big fan of R ratings. We shall see. Thanks everyone for the beta!

[jshamster]

It is not R rated!

To fall off of the slab

you would need to fling yerself off of it.

Even then you probably wouldn't make it through

the pleasant little meadow at the top of the first

two pitches.

IMO the glacier was the crux both times I've been

out there.

 

Have fun!

Cheers.

Jimbo

[Rad]

To fall off of the slab you would need to fling yerself off of it.

 

I agree completely.

 

If you get nervous do your best starfish impression, activate your MLU, and wait for the chopper and TV cameras.