JensHolsten Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Just wondering what the history of this climb (in between Damnation and MF) entails. I noticed it was bolted then chopped? Just as well, as it is a fine top rope and bolts on that face woud be extremely offensive in my opinion. With so much controversy surrounding the bolting and chopping of Dan's Dreadful Direct, I was just wondering why you NEVER hear anything about this climb and it's history. Next time your out at Castle throw a rope over it and give it a whirl. Great stone and engaging moves make it well worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlpineK Posted May 23, 2007 Share Posted May 23, 2007 Do a search on CC for Dan's Dreadful Direct Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Thanks for the tip AlpineK, but nothing in the mostly worthless 18 pages of that thread mentioned anything about No Such Thing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
montypiton Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 I believe Dan Lepeska had something to do with the pioneering of this route. Look him up and ask him. If you find him, say hello for me - its been about 25 years... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 I did the first Free on aTr.with Lapeska.Later Dan returned did it on TR. and Led it,now well wired on TR.No bolts back then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drater Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 TR's R Aid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G-spotter Posted June 4, 2007 Share Posted June 4, 2007 headpointing... never out of fashion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JensHolsten Posted June 4, 2007 Author Share Posted June 4, 2007 On a related note, Shriek of the Mutilated (croft/yoder) on Lower Castle Rock, has been cleaned (the crack was not even visible under the moss) and climbed. Awesome line, wild moves, great position, and bomber pro. One of the cooler routes in the T-water IMHO. Get after it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwallben Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 On a related note, Shriek of the Mutilated (croft/yoder) on Lower Castle Rock, has been cleaned (the crack was not even visible under the moss) and climbed. Awesome line, wild moves, great position, and bomber pro. One of the cooler routes in the T-water IMHO. Get after it! Thanks for giving that thing a scrub Jens! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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