JensHolsten Posted May 23, 2007 Posted May 23, 2007 Just wondering what the history of this climb (in between Damnation and MF) entails. I noticed it was bolted then chopped? Just as well, as it is a fine top rope and bolts on that face woud be extremely offensive in my opinion. With so much controversy surrounding the bolting and chopping of Dan's Dreadful Direct, I was just wondering why you NEVER hear anything about this climb and it's history. Next time your out at Castle throw a rope over it and give it a whirl. Great stone and engaging moves make it well worth it. Quote
JensHolsten Posted May 23, 2007 Author Posted May 23, 2007 Thanks for the tip AlpineK, but nothing in the mostly worthless 18 pages of that thread mentioned anything about No Such Thing... Quote
montypiton Posted May 24, 2007 Posted May 24, 2007 I believe Dan Lepeska had something to do with the pioneering of this route. Look him up and ask him. If you find him, say hello for me - its been about 25 years... Quote
RICHARD_CILLEY Posted June 4, 2007 Posted June 4, 2007 I did the first Free on aTr.with Lapeska.Later Dan returned did it on TR. and Led it,now well wired on TR.No bolts back then. Quote
JensHolsten Posted June 4, 2007 Author Posted June 4, 2007 On a related note, Shriek of the Mutilated (croft/yoder) on Lower Castle Rock, has been cleaned (the crack was not even visible under the moss) and climbed. Awesome line, wild moves, great position, and bomber pro. One of the cooler routes in the T-water IMHO. Get after it! Quote
bigwallben Posted June 10, 2007 Posted June 10, 2007 On a related note, Shriek of the Mutilated (croft/yoder) on Lower Castle Rock, has been cleaned (the crack was not even visible under the moss) and climbed. Awesome line, wild moves, great position, and bomber pro. One of the cooler routes in the T-water IMHO. Get after it! Thanks for giving that thing a scrub Jens! Quote
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