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Posted

If you want, you can thread them with your own webbing or perlon. Friends were origanally sold bare until about 1985 or so, and Metolius TCU's came bare until probably 1988. I don't think that there was ever an issue with people using their own webbing, only that people like the pre-sewn slings. Sewn slings are less bulky, and shorter. I continue to use tied webbing and perlon on my older friends, and have never had a second thought about safety.

Posted

Depending on what type of cams you use, both BD and Metolius will resling and wire cams for pretty cheap. Last time I sent my cams in to Met it was a year ago and they charged 7 bucks a cam to rewire, resling and mail the cam back. I received the cams back in about 4-6 weeks. I'm sending another batch in this week and I'll post if prices change.

Posted

If you are reslinging cams get them to sew on a double sling like the new DMMs/Trangos etc. instead of an old single sling. Or just get some Spectra/tech Cord and resling yourself if you dont mind a cluster@$#%&*! double or triple fishermans on your sling.

Posted

I wonder if it is possible to use steel cable to resling BD, WC and even Metolius and Aliens?

This may possibly be cheaper in a long run and racking would be easier. Some placement problems can occur though but I'd think it'd be worth a try unless there is a serious problem with doing so, such as, wire cutting the cam's body, etc.

Does anybody have such experience or intelligent thoughts on this? Black Diamond, EW, what do you think?

Thanks.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Rafael H:
I wonder if it is possible to use steel cable to resling BD, WC and even Metolius and Aliens?

Does anybody have such experience or intelligent thoughts on this? Black Diamond, EW, what do you think?

Thanks.

Rafael,

To add to Will's list, I think steel cable would be a bad idea because it would probably chew up your biners, unless you switched to SS. Aluminum's soft enough to wear fast, when up against something as stout as the cable would be...

m

Posted

While I agree that wire rope would not normally be a good idea for cams, I disagree with most of the reasons.

1) I don't think that they would chew up biners. Do wired nuts, ice screws, bolts, and pitons destroy biners?

2) I would not be concerned with strength. I have done tons of swagging of climbing gear at marine shops, and once decided to test the strenght of my work. I clipped a bunch of biners between swages that I had done, and older Chouinard wires, tied one end to a stout tree, and the other to a old D-4 my dad owned. a couple new biners failed before my homemade swages did.

Nicopress swages are heavier than the swages on wired nuts because manufacturers are able to use nice equipment, which is able to crush a steel sleeve instead of the heavier maleable copper.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by crazyjz:
1) I don't think that they would chew up biners. Do wired nuts, ice screws, bolts, and pitons destroy biners?

True. I guess I was thinking more along the lines of a stout cable in a biner, under a constant heavy load, which might saw into the biner eventually. Perhaps not, and admittedly not at all like the application Rafael was suggesting.

Why then do you think cables would be a bad idea, crazy?

Posted

After some consideration I think that practically for somebody like me, with no access to special equipment it is just as expensive and more troublesome to replace with wire as it is with webbing. Another disadvantage is weight.

I also disagree with all the other comments, even including the placement one.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by Rafael H:
I wonder if it is possible to use steel cable to resling BD, WC and even Metolius and Aliens?

Does anybody have such experience or intelligent thoughts on this? Black Diamond, EW, what do you think?

Thanks.

I'd say bad idea for a few reasons. First, the cable is stiff and wouldn't "drape" well. Second, after a little wear one or more of the strands will fray and then it'll gouge the shit out of your hand repeatedly. Third, you're relying on a swage, which is cool for 'heads etc, and probably is super strong, but you have no real way of knowing beyond the nicopress specs for swaging size. Finally, the cable will eventually kink, is heavier than webbing, and to get something not prohibitely rigid you'd have to use really small (although still wau strong) cable such as 3/32 or 1/8th. Seems like the nylon would actually last longer because it can fray a little without needing to be replaced whereas a frayed cable sucks.

Posted

Hmmm...intelligent thoughts.....I don't know about that...but....Most of what has already been posted is good advice. I'd go for knotted webbing first as it's cheaper, pretty strong (less overall strength by about 15% or so than a bartacked runner)and can be done in a few minutes without having to ship your gear off to someone to do the bartacking. I'd shy away from cable for one possible reason - I'd bet that cabling cams would make them harder to use in most situations. Cable is usually really stiff and unwieldy unless it's compressed into a sleeve, like a wired nut, etc. My .02.

ew

Posted

I would think cable would promote walking more than webbing or cord would, the same way a quickdraw gives more flex in the system than just 2 biners clipped together.

Posted

FWIW,

If you want cables swaged to your cams for slings(I wouldn't personally for the reasons I listed in the prior post) I can do it for you, give me a call and drop by my place sometime probably take an hour and a half to do a set. We can work out compensation via trade (I like beer, I like herb, I like entertaining stories). I've got cable in 1/16, 3/32, 1/8, 5/32, 3/16 and swages for all of 'em. PM me if you want.

Posted

Chuck -

I know you hate those things, but I find the "dog bones" work pretty well for me (for those who may not recognize this term of art, a "dog bone" is what most of us call a quick-draw, bar-tacked so as to close off any loop, make a tight connection to the biners at either end, and to stiffen the whole unit). I use the sling loops on the end of my cams for the flexibility that is generally sufficient to prevent my cams from walking into a crack. When I detect a potential problem, I add an extra biner or hang an extra piece on the runner to weight it and thus minimize up and down movement, or I use a longer runner (which on my rack is a loop). The dog bones keep the biners hanging the right way up and facilitate rapid clipping when one is on an insecure stance.

- Matt

Posted

Actually I did just toss out 3 flannels last week. I listened to Nirvana the other day and found that I don't like them anymore, but Sonic Youth still rules!

So one day I went to that Exit 32 sporto crag with two friends that had just met that day. Guy #1 pulls out his shiny new gear which includes many dogbone draws. Friend #2, who posts to this board, immediately blurts out "Hey! POSER DRAWS!" [hell no] Nice first impression.

The reason I hate mad.gif" border="0 poser/dogbone draws is because I fear their stiffness could cause 1) friends to walk, stoppers to worm out, 2) more rope drag due to not letting the rope orient itself as easily 3) easier rope unclipping in a fall past it.

I do agree that they could help in a difficult clip and would certainly like to use them on some of those BB sporto routes that have the clip just out of reach from a nice stance.

Posted

quote:

Originally posted by chucK:
I do agree that they could help in a difficult clip and would certainly like to use them on some of those BB sporto routes that have the clip just out of reach from a nice stance.

That's what the Kong Frog is for!!

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