North Sister Question

[dinomyte]

I was up on North on 5/12.

 

It looked like so from what I think is the Camel's Hump:

 

Snow was pretty solid at 9800 feet.

 

Question for you folks who have been up there: Is it at the Camel's Hump that you begin to drop down to climber's left to start the Traverse?

 

Anybody have any photos from the beginning of the Traverse?

 

I woulda ventured further, but just didn't feel like committing!

 

 

[sean_beanntan]

It depends on the snow conditions. This time of year, its possible to drop off the south ridge onto the west slope a little earlier, see Jeff Thomas guide on page 98(although if you are asking this question, maybe you dont have access to the book and I can send you the page). I was in teh Sisters last Thursday and so saw similar conditions to you. Later on in the season, you climb higher on the south ridge before the traverse due to the rotten loose rock. You then have to basically drop down on the west side of the hump, traverse on the west side before again gaining the south ridge and then a small traverse of the east face.

 

Hope this helps

[dinomyte]

It does, and thanks. I don't have the book, but a climbing buddy of mine does, so no prob there.

 

We may head over there this weekend, and just wanted any personal insights anyone could offer, as neither of us have been on this one before.

[sean_beanntan]

I am assuming that you hiked in from Pole Creek and that you climbed the south ridge on the East Side. Once you accend the ridge from the col, where the ridge starts to flatten out, start looking for the entrance onto the west face. The big thing is not to traverse too far. There are 2 traverse pitches usually. Then start looking for a vertical step of about 10ft that marks the entrance into the bowling alley aka the 4th class gully to the top. Stay to the right in the gully heading toward the south pinnicle and where it flattens out, traverse to the true summit to the north. Recommend bringing some cord to use as slings for protection.

[dinomyte]

You are correct. I hiked from Pole Creek and followed this route:

 

 

I think I stopped about where I should start looking for that entrance to the west face. I even thought I saw a little 3-stone cairn but I'm not sure.

 

Your note about the traverse and bowling alley is just what I thought from previous research. Thanks for the beta.

 

We're planning on this Saturday, dark and early, weather permitting.

[sean_beanntan]

Looking at your photo, another option is to continue around to the saddle between North and Middle and start climbing the ridge from there. That way you will be be climbing on snow the whole time and you wont have any rock or gendarme issues until the hump. You traverse the mountain more to start the climb buts its quick travel and certainly the recommended way to decend

[dinomyte]

I also learned a lesson, courtesy of those 5 guys on Hood:

 

Posting a serious question when everyone is debating the smarts of a group in trouble on Hood yields very few responses!

[ScaredSilly]

It depends on the snow conditions. This time of year, its possible to drop off the south ridge onto the west slope a little earlier, see Jeff Thomas guide on page 98 (although if you are asking this question, maybe you dont have access to the book and I can send you the page). I was in the Sisters last Thursday and so saw similar conditions to you. Later on in the season, you climb higher on the south ridge before the traverse due to the rotten loose rock. You then have to basically drop down on the west side of the hump, traverse on the west side before again gaining the south ridge and then a small traverse of the east face.

 

This description sounds accurate - somewhere I have photos from when I did the traverse 20+ years ago, also solo. I bivied on the ridge after skiing in about this same time of year. Cool bivy. I can not remember where I started the traverse around other than I went up fairly high. It was a band of snow with a bit of rotten rock which is the scariest part. This lead around to the bowling alley.

 

 

[CascadeClimber]

I'd be surprised if there wasn't some trace of a boot track this time of year. It does go pretty high, and the traverse goes around a couple ribs, so you have to start out on it without being able to see where the bowling alley begins. Here are a couple pics that AlpineDave took in 2004. We came back that way after climbing the Thayer.

 

Almost to the first rib (looking generally south):

 

Just past the 2nd rib, where we crossed paths with a group on their way up:

 

[John Frieh]

One trick you can use a little later in the season is at the traverse instead of going straight across belay the leader straight up where he/she can drop into the snow moat that forms in between the upper "wall" and the snowfield. The moat provides safe walking across to where you have to descend to get around the rock finger and into the bowling alley. If you are uncomfortable downclimbing out of the moat just fix a long long sling and use it as a hand line to get down to get to the bowling alley.

 

Make sense?

[dinomyte]

Thanks. Kevin_Matlock and I are gonna start out at Pole Creek at 3 tomorrow morn.

 

I hope there's a bit of a track, as I don't wanna be screwing around in that area all day.

 

I don't have a real sense of how far across the traverse is before you head up the alley. Sean said two traverse pitches. Sound about right?

[John Frieh]

Its been a 10+ years since I was last up there but that sounds about right... Kinda depends on the length of your rope I would think... What I do remember is you keep traversing until you can see up the bowling alley... hard to miss that.

[CascadeClimber]

It depends on where you start counting pitches and how long they are. From the little notch/col it's definitely more than three pitches. It's over either two or three ribs. IIRC, you'd have to drop down quite a bit to get under the rib that is the north side of the bowling alley, so keep traversing basically along contour until you get blocked, then go up (similar to Leuthold's). Set a good track, I'll be there next weekend...

[dinomyte]

Sorry for all the questions, but do the first 2-3 ribs drop down about the same?

[PaulO]

Lousy enlargement of picture from last fall taken from above meadow looking up at face of traverse.

Bowling alley IS where red circle is, actual traverse on snow is likely higher up than blue circle. Summit is left side.

 

 

 

 

[CascadeClimber]

You don't drop down for them at all, you climb over them (they could even be called 'corners' instead of 'ribs'). Two of the three are visible in the pics I posted above. The middle one is where Dave was standing when he took the 2nd picture.

 

I think you're making it more complicated that it is, and having said that, the whole traverse is across a fairly steep, exposed slope and the last pitch on the bowling alley is steeper. If you can't move quickly on this sort of terrain you're going to be a long time getting to the summit and back.

 

More pics and info here:

 

http://cascadeclimber.com/north_sister_part_2.htm

 

and here:

 

http://cascadeclimber.com/north_sister.htm

 

L

 

Edit to add: Damn that traverse looks fugly without snow on it!

Edited May 18, 2007 by CascadeClimber

[dinomyte]

No worries. I appreciate the info.

 

Don't mean to be difficult. I just always like to have a picture in mind when I head into a spot I haven't been before.

 

A picture in hand is even better! So, I appreciate those above.

Paul, I had actually already printed yours and drew a line!

[letsroll]

so did you get any this weekend??? I saw two guys heading up.

Edited May 21, 2007 by letsroll

[dinomyte]

We went out, leaving at about 3:45am. It started snowing on us pretty early, and was blowing like a bitch by the time we got to the ridge, and it was coming from the west. I'd say sustained 25 and gusts to 40 or so. We only went up to that first rock, where you kinda turn more north, at about 8200 feet. Just didn't relish the idea of getting blasted on the traverse.

 

There were two guys with skis that turned around right at the base of the SE ridge. I think they intended to climb, as I thought I saw pickets. We also ran into a group of 5 as we were heading down. They were contemplating it, but it looked to me like they may have been leaning towards no.

 

The wind kinda died a bit as we were heading out as well, but to be honest we both agreed that we want absolutely optimal conditions before jumping on this one.

 

It did look nice though:

 

[letsroll]

That was us with the skis. We were headed up thayer, but thought twice cause of wind on the traverse on the way out. She sure did look good though.

[dinomyte]

Ah, wish we'd have said howdy instead of just waving. It was a bit blustery, eh?

 

We enjoyed watching you guys blaze outta there! I think I counted to 5 and you guys were outta sight! There was a bit of jealousy there!

 

From where we were, up a bit, we saw the 25 or so people that were in those vans at the TH as well. They looked to be on the trail on to Camp Lake, and were taking turns sliding down a snowbank. Pretty weird to watch from 1500 feet higher.

 

Hope to see you again. I think we'll be back to try again in a few weeks.

[Kevin_Matlock]

letsroll - how was the slide down? i was debating on skinning up, but it just didn't seem to be worth the short ride and the PITA having to pack them through some of the brush and downed trees.

[letsroll]

We were wondering if you were going to make it. But we figured you were hunkered down near the first gendarm. We saw you two and thought it might be you after reading your post and questions about north.

 

Was wondering where all those people were from the white vans. They practicing glisading??

 

Sking out is the way to go for the most part. It all most seems a shame. 6 hrs up and 20 minutes down (hood). I think I am going to give it ago again as well. Maybe do some kind of Thayer alternative route. Or just to the regular route so I can be done with that gal. She has stood me up 4 times.

 

Kevin taking the skis was nice. We were able to start sking about half way from the bridge to tree line. The snow was good for the most part. One little section of mankie snow but that lasted about 5 minutes then it was off to nice corn. If you skied the Hayden it would be worth it. The hike in was not bad at all. Geting around the deadfall is no big deal. I will be packing them again in a couple of weeks.

[dinomyte]

We were so far away from those folks in the vans that we couldn't really tell what they were doing. Probably self-arrest practice or something. I was wondering if COCC or some folks like that might have a class. Those were state rigs.

 

Kevin and I are thinking about 6/2 for our next go. Standard route as we wanna knock that bitch off as well. We were joking that after we do, we might not be back on that one for awhile!

 

I had gone up solo the weekend before, but with no intent to summit, just to get a feel for the route as I knew Kevin and I would be back. Weather was a lot better then!

 

Maybe we'll see you there in a couple weeks!

[letsroll]

Two weeks maybe three for me. This time might boot and do the sisters marathon. With a bivi on Middle.

 

Let me know. It would be cool to meet up with some other people.