Leavenworth Sport Climbs

[sprocket]

I'm going to be in Leavenworth Saturday for a raft trip and was thinking about staying the night and getting some climbing in on Sunday. I don't want to bring a rack but thought I'd bring a rope and some draws. My question is does anyone know of a place there that has a half dozen or more bolted routes in the 5.6-5.10 range that has a short approach? I've been contemplating heading up to Condorphamine Addiction but would prefer doing single-pitch stuff with a shorter approach.

 

Thanks

[Alpinfox]

 

Go to Vantage.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Playground point has some easy sport routes. You could also TR roadside trad routes at places like 8 mile rock and Alphabet Rock. Alphabet has some nice crack climbs from 5.8 up, as well as one fun 10- sport climb (Hindquaters, hard for grade IMO). Condorphamine is a really fun climb, approach is longish, but worth it. The climb goes pretty quick as it is only about 3.5 pitches long.

[Sherri]

Clamshell Cave. 10-15 minute approach. Nice mix of moderate sport and trad routes.

[sprocket]

Been to Vantage several times this year and it's a drive from Leavenworth, just looking to crawl out of my tent and climb something close by.

 

Alphabet and 8 mile are fun, Dogleg and Classic are both great and Hindquartes has spit me off on toprope a couple of times but its a cool climb. I didn't know there were bolted routes at Clamshell Cave, thanks for the tip. I've been to Playground Point too, a couple of really fun routes.

[TrogdortheBurninator]

Have you been up to the puzzle palace area, or anything else around clems holler. Puzzle palace is more sporty (big holds, steep lines) and more routes than the book shows. Clems has some steep sporty stuff and some slabbier stuff. lots of it goes without a rack.

[sprocket]

Those were kind of the areas I have in mind, I knew there were some bolted lines there but have never gone because I'm usually looking for gear routes when I head to Leavenworth. Is there any place to get route info on climbs not in the guide book?

[Sherri]

Been to Vantage several times this year and it's a drive from Leavenworth, just looking to crawl out of my tent and climb something close by.

 

Alphabet and 8 mile are fun, Dogleg and Classic are both great and Hindquartes has spit me off on toprope a couple of times but its a cool climb. I didn't know there were bolted routes at Clamshell Cave, thanks for the tip. I've been to Playground Point too, a couple of really fun routes.

 

Clamshell has a couple fun 5.9 bolted lines, around three 5.10+, and a couple 5.6-8 trad lines that are top-ropable. You can easily kill an afternoon there, getting in a little of everything.

[sprocket]

Been to Vantage several times this year and it's a drive from Leavenworth, just looking to crawl out of my tent and climb something close by.

 

Alphabet and 8 mile are fun, Dogleg and Classic are both great and Hindquartes has spit me off on toprope a couple of times but its a cool climb. I didn't know there were bolted routes at Clamshell Cave, thanks for the tip. I've been to Playground Point too, a couple of really fun routes.

 

Clamshell has a couple fun 5.9 bolted lines, around three 5.10+, and a couple 5.6-8 trad lines that are top-ropable. You can easily kill an afternoon there, getting in a little of everything.

 

Very cool, I'll have to check it out. Are the climbs in the book?

[Sherri]

Yes, all in the book. The trailhead is just around the corner from the Playground Point trailhead. Hammerhead Rock is a good landmark to look for from the road.

[sprocket]

Yes, all in the book. The trailhead is just around the corner from the Playground Point trailhead. Hammerhead Rock is a good landmark to look for from the road.

 

Sweet! Thanks Sherri and Trogdor!

[ScottP]

Fourth of July Rock...

[NTM]

alphabet rock also has "return to the womb" .10-. one of the best sport routes i've done in WA

[Raindawg]

Hey Sprocket:

 

Have a good time in Leavenworth, but keep in mind that many of us folks hope to keep Leavenworth as sport-climb free as possible, so there are other places that might be of more interest, i.e., the already ruined Vantage. For something "sport-like": just east of Leavenworth are the Peshastin Pinnacles, beautiful sandstone formations with bold exciting climbs. Many of the routes are bolted, and were bolted on lead 30 or 40 years ago, and offer some exciting climbing with some lead-outs....not the average 5 feet between bolts nonsense. Many of the original manky 1/4 inchers have been replaced with big ol' bombers so it's not as scary as it used to be. Good luck!

[dmin]

What guide book do you guys recommend for Leavenworth? Or maybe there's only one...

 

Thanks!

[Jens]

The drip wall at Leavenworth has perhaps some of the finest granite sport routes in the state. Directions are in the guidebook.

Avoid the "Condomorphine Addiction" route.

[genepires]

the area with "groping for oprahs navel" has a couple sport 5.10's and a 9. I think clems hollar has more bolted lines than most areas in l'worth. fish wall below duty dome has 3 or 4 8's and 9's bolted.

[sprocket]

I think it's called "Leavenworth Rock" by V. Kramar.

[dmin]

thanks