Slesse Conditions May 9

[JanD]

The road is 2wd HC all the way to Rexford trailhead now.

 

My Corolla got up a fair ways but you want HC after a few km. Someone actually busted their oil pan on a Jetta there this past weekend.

 

Cheers, Jan

[512dude]

Jan,

 

did you guys climb Slesse? It sounds like you can make it to the Mt.Slesse trail head at 5.9km if it is open to Mt.Rexford trail head ~8km. Did I interpret your post correctly?

 

What about the descent and hike out on Slesse Creek Road - heard that was closed at 0 mile post?

 

Cheers,

C

[Rad]

My question is about the Pocket Glacier. Still hanging in there?

[MCash]

It sounds like you can make it to the Mt.Slesse trail head at 5.9km if it is open to Mt.Rexford trail head ~8km. Did I interpret your post correctly?

 

1. There is no way you can drive to the Mount Rexford trailhead. That last section is completely overgrown. A 4 wheeler would make it.

 

2. The Mount Slesse trailhead is no longer at 5.9km in. There is a new one further up the road.

[JanD]

hey Chris,

the road is 2wd hc to the rexford turnoff. That means way past the Slesse fork.

Yes, the last 400 m to the trailhead of Rexford are overgrown, I considered that part of the trail. The actual road goes past that.

 

There is pretty good logging going on which is why the road is in good shape compared to a few weeks ago.

 

The Glacier on Slesse had not slid yet. The Bypass Slabs were all clear AFAI could see.

This is the best shot I have.

 

 

The other side (slesse creek) I am not sure it's been a year. As far as I understand from some kayaker friends, the road still has some ditches. With 4x4 hc you should get up a good ways though. If not it's not a big deal. When we climbed NEB last year, we dropped a bike close to the upper bridge turnoff over Slesse Creek and hiked the rest on the way down. We also had to hike from km3 on the Nesakwatch road and we managed to climb the NEB in 23 hours car to car (including bike shuttle). Also, there is a lot of scrambling on it. I think we pitched out 9 pitches and the rest was soloing or simul climbing.

 

My girlfriend and I did the enchainment of the Nesakwatch spires and Rexford. Mellow but fun scrambling. I'll write a TR sometime. Unfortunately, my season is done for summer climbing as I am getting my shoulder fixed (kayak injury) this week :-(

 

Cheers, Jan

 

 

[Buckaroo]

One 60m for ascent and descent works fine

[SmilingWhiteKnuckles]

Has anyone been up on the north/east side of Slesse lately? Wondering if there is still snow near the giganto bivy platform on the NE buttress?

[TrogdortheBurninator]

For the folks that are climbing this route right now, are you guys just hoping for the best when crossing the slabs, or are you using an alternate approach?

[Brutus of Wyde]

Thanks all for the beta supplied to date. What I get from it is: Roads still need high clearance but you can get pretty close, on either end, to where you want to be with HC 2WD. East Face Pocket Glacier is still hanging in there, who knows when or if it will slide. If we decide to go for it anyways, cross early and quick, slides occurring as early as 8 or 9 am. And, (great beta BTW) still snow on the route to get water!

 

Thanks again, and stay safe out there!

 

Brutus, (logging in from ACC clubhouse in Canmore, headed for Wiwaxy Peak,) of Wyde

[tlinn]

Does anyone have any updated conditions on the pocket glacier?

 

[Rad]

tlinn, could you see it from the Steinbock-Ibex col?

[G-spotter]

tlinn, could you see it from the Steinbock-Ibex col?

 

[Rad]

whatever. He said he saw Slesse from that vantage in his TR. I haven't looked at the map to know if it's feasible.

 

Why don't you go embed a disposable gps in the upper snow there next year mr. geo, and then we can monitor real time.

 

[clintcummins]

FYI, the body from the July 7 pocket glacier slide fatality was recovered a few days ago. We saw the cut rope when we were up there on 9/14; so did the guys on 9/12.

 

Recovery story:

 

http://www.canada.com/abbotsfordtimes/news/story.html?id=cf4e98e6-45fd-4c83-a09f-e5eabb7a9a19&k=4126

 

Accident story:

 

http://www.canada.com/theprovince/news/pstory.html?id=7ea1da08-2378-4e36-9aff-f66086b27632&k=54004