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Brutus of Wyde

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  1. Glad you got off the thing with your skins intact! Quick question: Is it necessary to deal with the glacier issue if doing the direct start to the route? Is the direct start or the approach to the direct start threatened by seracs? The route was one of our main goals last summer but the weather never cooperated, so we spent enjoyable days cragging in the Washington Pass area instead. Thanks, Brutus
  2. Thanks all for the beta supplied to date. What I get from it is: Roads still need high clearance but you can get pretty close, on either end, to where you want to be with HC 2WD. East Face Pocket Glacier is still hanging in there, who knows when or if it will slide. If we decide to go for it anyways, cross early and quick, slides occurring as early as 8 or 9 am. And, (great beta BTW) still snow on the route to get water! Thanks again, and stay safe out there! Brutus, (logging in from ACC clubhouse in Canmore, headed for Wiwaxy Peak,) of Wyde
  3. yup was very sad to hear about that. Tell the truth, if the pocket glacier doesn't go this year, we'll go elsewhere. We're firn believers in "gift conditions" Brutus
  4. Any updated information on road conditions? Don't suppose the e. face pocket glacier has slid... Brutus
  5. Here's the deal: my partner and I need to be shuttled from the end of the good road in Slesse Creek to the departure point in Nesakwatch Creek in order to do Slesse NE Buttress. Our car ( a toyota prius) just doesn't have the clearance necessary fot the 2-car solution. We looked into the chopper ride with Highland heli, and its out of the question. We're planning on early August. So -- Are you local? headed that way anyways and setting up your own shuttle? want to meet geezers from the Old Climbers Home willing to swap tall tales over brew before the trip? We're willing to negotiate on price including gas and beer. pm me or e-mail at brutusofwyde (at) yahoo(dot)com
  6. Thanks for the info, everybody. Here's hoping there is still some snowmelt midroute for water when we go. Brutus
  7. Here's the deal: my partner and I need to be shuttled from the end of the good road in Slesse Creek to the departure point in Nesakwatch Creek in order to do Slesse NE Buttress. Our car ( a toyota prius) just doesn't have the clearance necessary fot the 2-car solution. We looked into the chopper ride with Highland heli, and #1 they can't guarantee a slot, #2 its $740 canadian and #3 the chopper ride just don't sit well with us if other options are available. We're planning on early August. So -- Are you local? headed that way anyways and setting up your own shuttle? want to meet geezers from the Old Climbers Home willing to swap tall tales over brew before the trip? We're willing to negotiate on price including gas and beer. pm me or e-mail at brutusofwyde (at) yahoo(dot)com
  8. Any update on road conditions?? tx in advance, Brutus
  9. Any update on the conditions? Specifically interested in the conditions of the roads this year. Thanx. Brutus
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